Kristmas Kamodo

[Randy Williams]

Originally Posted by Jeepiac

I recently bought the Sawback 4LS which is more or less a Komodo, and to me the link geometry is a little on the strange side. Even though the articulation of the axles with the XD Aeration shocks is perfect, the suspension dose not compress at all while running at any speed more than a crawl over the rough stuff. I haven't heard this complaint about the Komodo yet, so I was wondering if it suffers from the same flaw? The angle change of the axles when compressed is all wrong imo. One other thing is the axle swing with a CMS setup. I finally ended up putting the servo back on the axle so I could get a full range of steering. I'll probably drag the 4LS to Disney with me in case some pre or post event playing happens. The thing is very capable and maybe I'm just wining like a spoiled baby If we get the chance, I'd like to compare the two when at Disney.

Sounds good. the transition shocks leave much to be desired. There are two set ups you can do with the transitions. The sprung is way to tall and the droop doesn't allow flex when going over smaller obstacles. It basically bobbles about like its on balloon tires. I've been having some luck with Boomracings Type E crawler shocks. They're very easy to fill and are crazy smooth. The price is right also, about $17 a pair.

From what I gather on the CMS you'll always loose articulation and steering performance. It you're looking for the scale look it's the only way to go.

I look forward to chatting with you at Disney.

[Randy Williams]

Originally Posted by TrailDawg362

The Zero Ackerman knuckles and steering link really improve the turning radius. They recommend cvd's to go with it. I have the brass tubes up front and have yet to install the rears. The CMS kit was cheap enough so I threw that in as well. Running a small 3S lipo mounted on the slider brackets helped a lot when "getting vertical".

I didn't know about the cvd recommendation. Thanks I'll get those ordered.

[Randy Williams]

Originally Posted by Jeepiac

Amen on the CVD's! They are a must when trying to get full steering. Just be sure to get the correct ones. Komodo and 4LS use longer axles than the original Sawback. Lots of venders list them as for either one, but this is wrong.

Good to know!

[Jeepiac]

You can actually get the exact same amount with the stock plastic knuckles as you will with the upgrade knuckles. I have an original Sawback that I've modified a lot, home made scaler that has a set of Komodo axles that have every single upgrade you can do and the 4LS. Both the Sawbacks have CVD's and that's the only bought mod. 5 minutes with an exacto and they steer exactly the same as the axles with all the expensive unneeded pretty parts. Plus, Gmade plastic almost never breaks. I have witnesses to the evil and sadistic things I've done to my tired old Sawback just to prove what a bad ass it actually is.

[Jeepiac]

Then there's this. Count the teeth on the pinion Somewhere in the Sawback forum I've posted a short how to of my overdrive setup. Many say R1 gears wont work in a Sawback axle, but I've been doing it for quite a while now. It will help your steering. not by a lot, but it is noticeable. and it's cheap! I'm all about cheap.

[Randy Williams]

So when I put this kit together I knew having the battery in the back was going to be an issue. I've ran this truck in a couple competitions and didn't do horrible but I knew there was room for improvement. So I set about making the move. Battery up front/in the middle and electronics in the back. I used the Howler battery plate on my SCX10 to accomplish this but that wasn't an option for the Gmade at this time, but I knew the difference it made in those trucks was huge.

I was looking the truck over and thought my 5200 mah Zippy might slide in to the area where the ESC sits. There's a small shelf on the back of the electronic box just for the ESC. I removed the ESC and the battery slid right in. Problem was there was really no way to hold it in place if the truck rolled. So I fitted a spare Axial battery tray with a couple zip ties to the shelf. Then I put the metal Axial plate in place using the stock SCX10 screws to hold it in place. Then the lid for the electronics box wouldn't close so I spun it around and put the screws back in place.

[Randy Williams]

I then added another of the metal plates to the stock battery location on the Komodo and attached it with a couple screws. I placed the ESC as far forward as possible. Then I assed a clear plastic parts box to the back of the battery plate for my receiver and bec.

[Randy Williams]

I took it out for a spin and WOW what an improvement.

I'm also starting to become accustomed to the Transitions shocks. My initial dislike has faded as I've drove the truck. Picking up one tire and watching the truck didn't impress me much. After observing the rig on the rocks I've noticed they work and work well. I'm going to mess with the oils a bit and see if I can find something other than the standard 30wt.

The Komodo has come a long way and is slowly turning into my favorite. I'll be installing lights this next weekend. Hopefully we will see some ScalerFab trail armor added to this build soon. Just need money.

Here's one more picture without the battery in place.

[Jeepiac]

These are great little trucks! I took mine to a local comp last weekend, and it didn't really do as well as I'd hoped, but it didn't change my opinion of it at all. I'm thinking most of the troubles I had were caused by the goob holding the transmitter, cause it did make it through several spots that only a couple of other trucks could make it through, and they were running giant ass tires. Looks like you've got pretty much the same idea as I do when it comes to setup. Well, except for those clunky shocks you're still using

[Randy Williams]

Im to the point where the shocks aren't constantly on my mind. At first I thought they were the root of all evil. Now, I think they function and I haven't decided which way to go on shocks so I'm not as paranoid about them. They aren't top notch by any means but they are what I have for now.��

These trucks are surprising.

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by Randy Williams

Im to the point where the shocks aren't constantly on my mind. At first I thought they were the root of all evil. Now, I think they function and I haven't decided which way to go on shocks so I'm not as paranoid about them. They aren't top notch by any means but they are what I have for now.��

These trucks are surprising.

One of the top dogs in our local club once said "build it then learn to drive what you built" I forget this at times, but then I think about my original Sawback with almost no flex and pogo sticks for shocks. I've put a lot of "scale" miles on that thing, and have learned all it's characteristics. I've learned to take it anywhere any of my so called better rigs can go. Just takes better skills and a little more thought through the really technical stuff. I have a friend that runs a mostly stock SCX10, worn out Ripsaws with rotten foams and almost no flex. I have yet to even come close to doing the things he can do with this hunk of crap, but it's what he crawls with day in and day out, and he knows his tiny truck. When it comes down to the nitty gritty practice is more of a advantage than any shock you can buy.
Damn! That sure escalated into a rant rather quickly

[TrailDawg362]

I really like my lil Komodo (w/SCX10 shocks) but it definitely needs some antisquat in the link geometry. I'm attempting to raise the rear upper link mounts with brackets, and see if that helps keep the nose down.

[Randy Williams]

I haven't updated the thread lately. My last real outing with the Komodo was at the RC4WD Scale Challenge Series in Disney, OK.

The truck did great but it literally had a couple hang ups. The bumpers. So after some waiting and tongue biting its finally here courtesy of Scalerfab.com

Komodo Trail Armor

This has to be, by far, the best performance upgrade I've done to this rig.