Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[Jay-Em]

Me thinks that cvd’s are a must if the turningradius seems problematic. The manual even specifically mentioned to limit the radius with the dogbones. Gmade is aware of it. I guess they made some choices to keep the price of the GOM below- or around their competition. And before one says “but the Bomber is cheaper” True, the bomber kit is cheaper -at least overhere in the EU- but no dig, and no 2-speed. That’ll cost ya’ an extra €120,-

I wouldn’t call it “ a bummer” directly. My Wraiths only started to turn reliably (without snapping the dogbones, that is ! ) when I put cvd axles in them. Let alone that I had to almost immediately replace their gears for steel ones ( And those come at a premium overhere.. ). Let’s just say that a 5.5t Xceleron is, maybe, a tad much for stock Wraiths. Same song&dance for the Grave Digger, though. Their plastic gears are the only thing I truly detest on the Wraiths, and their derivatives. Fine for a Mabuchi rs540sh on 2s, but useless on anyting more powerful.

[mikemcE]

I shattered the junfac cvds in my R1.


Hang up and Drive

[84yoda]

RPP has all the aftermarket parts listed on there site.

Gmade GR01 GOM Buggy

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

RPP has all the aftermarket parts listed on there site.

Gmade GR01 GOM Buggy

Great find. Thanks.

[X-crawler]

Try here http://m.junfac.com/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jeepiac]

I haven't been on here bitching for a while, so here goes lol. First of all I haven't touched this thing since my last post, till today. I decided to at least get it together enough to run it around the house and get an idea of whats what. Of course as everyone knows the steering sucks, and will hopefully be greatly improved with CV's and some trimming of the knuckles. My hardware issues are still going on, and I had to trim the end of the tunnel because it was to long to fit between the transmission and t-case. I'm sure with my luck I got the only one in the world with that issue Anyway, on a positive note the transmission is quieter than I had anticipated, and I think it will probably crawl pretty dang good when finished. I'm running a 13T Holmes, MMP on 2s and I think this is the max power I'll ever put to mine because the hard binds it will incure during crawling, the axle contaact with the lockers and the small size of the lockers, not to mention how loosely the cross fits Scare's the hell out of me. I did put real drive shafts in mine. Plastic shafts and wheels are not my thing. Now then, has anyone put aluminum wheels on theirs yet? I mounted a set up that are pretty much normal thickness where the axle goes through and there isnt enough shaft to get into the nylon of the nuts. If anybody is running aluminum wheels that actually work, please let me know.

[Jay-Em]

Hmmm.. tunnel seems too long? Shift forks put -in correctly? Or shift shafts the wrong way around? Does it shift normally from dig to 1 to 2? I rebuilt the complete transmission 2 times, because I hadn’t looked close enough to the instructions. (Manuals are for sissies, You know.. ) How much did You have to shave off? A couple of mm, or more like a cm? If more than a few slivers, part of the transmission is probably sitting on the wrong screw holes on the chassis-plate.

On the wheels: The hexes are a bit on the fat side. (Put on the original wheels, and look at the inside, to see what I mean) They could lose about 1.5mm. Steering arms would be very close to the stock rims, but with enough offset, it should be no problem. The stock wheels also reminded me why I hate beadlocks. My arm still hurts. Instant RSI.

Oh, and mentioning ‘shifting’. For everyone starting to build this thing, make absolutely, totally, utterly extremely, indubitably, completely sure the servo is centerd correctly. Ahem.. I didn’t, and getting the shifting servo out to adjust requires one to COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE ONE SIDE OF THE FRIGGIN CAR.. :facepalm:

One of those things where you’d think the engineers should know better.....

By the by, people mentioned the wobbly spur. I fixed it by trimming the slipper pads to precisely fit in the octagonal recess in the spur. That immediately fixed any wobble for me. Ergo: the slipper pads don’t fit properly without trimming. A bit.. well, shoddy, I’d say.

On the other hand, being in RC cars for 40 years now, a bit of manual fitting of parts doesn’t faze me, nor does it make a horrible car imho. It used to be much, much worse. The early Parma’s and Yokomo’s being the worst offenders I can remember.


Edit:

Back to the GOM : it ab-so-lutely needs an aluminium steering servo horn. The plastic one stripped after 2 packs. Finally my 9kg steel geared servo started to work as it should. I got a 20kg on order, but that’s due somewhere next week. For now the 9kg sortof works.

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Hmmm.. tunnel seems too long? Shift forks put -in correctly? Or shift shafts the wrong way around? Does it shift normally from dig to 1 to 2? I rebuilt the complete transmission 2 times, because I hadn’t looked close enough to the instructions. (Manuals are for sissies, You know.. ) How much did You have to shave off? A couple of mm, or more like a cm? If more than a few slivers, part of the transmission is probably sitting on the wrong screw holes on the chassis-plate.

On the wheels: The hexes are a bit on the fat side. (Put on the original wheels, and look at the inside, to see what I mean) They could lose about 1.5mm. Steering arms would be very close to the stock rims, but with enough offset, it should be no problem. The stock wheels also reminded me why I hate beadlocks. My arm still hurts. Instant RSI.

Oh, and mentioning ‘shifting’. For everyone starting to build this thing, make absolutely, totally, utterly extremely, indubitably, completely sure the servo is centerd correctly. Ahem.. I didn’t, and getting the shifting servo out to adjust requires one to COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE ONE SIDE OF THE FRIGGIN CAR.. :facepalm:

One of those things where you’d think the engineers should know better.....

By the by, people mentioned the wobbly spur. I fixed it by trimming the slipper pads to precisely fit in the octagonal recess in the spur. That immediately fixed any wobble for me. Ergo: the slipper pads don’t fit properly without trimming. A bit.. well, shoddy, I’d say.

On the other hand, being in RC cars for 40 years now, a bit of manual fitting of parts doesn’t faze me, nor does it make a horrible car imho. It used to be much, much worse. The early Parma’s and Yokomo’s being the worst offenders I can remember.


Edit:

Back to the GOM : it ab-so-lutely needs an aluminium steering servo horn. The plastic one stripped after 2 packs. Finally my 9kg steel geared servo started to work as it should. I got a 20kg on order, but that’s due somewhere next week. For now the 9kg sortof works.

Give me a little credit lol. Yes, everything in installed correctly and shifting through all positions works great. I had to remove around 2mm from the front of what I call the tunnel. (cover over shaft between tranny and t-case) Wheels will just have to do for now. I have thinner hexes, but still not enough axle to get a good tighten on the nuts, and amen on getting things right on the shift servo before you burry it under 8 layers of crap. Ok, maybe 3 layers. As for my wobbly spur, it's caused by the clutch hub fitting very sloppily on to the input shaft. Very poor casting in my case. Everything is together and done on mine now except for painting the panels. Should get that done by the end of the day

[Jeepiac]

Done for now. Really seems like its going to be pretty capable, but rear flex needs limited. Other than that and the shifting being hit and miss its ok. I'll live with the shifting for now cause I really don't want to dig into it I decided I liked mine better without the rear panels and that cheesy radiator with sticker fans lol. Stickers instead of actual details always makes me tilt my head like a dog hearing a high pitched whistle.

Countertop pose taken with a junky phone

[Brake Weight]

Much better without those rear number panels.

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Much better without those rear number panels.

I've already contemplated cutting the entire rear of the cage off too, but figured the back is to light as it is.

[TooOldForThis]

Someone has a hardware fetish over at Gmade! All the different lengths, and was this many screws really necessary here?



Seriously though, the hardware choices are quirky but I'm LOVING this build. I really like some of the unusual design choices they made to achieve a more scale chassis layout. There's something about having the major mechanical bits under the hood like a real truck that makes me happy. I can see what a pain this will be to work on after it's built, but it's so cool!

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by TooOldForThis

Someone has a hardware fetish over at Gmade! All the different lengths, and was this many screws really necessary here?



Seriously though, the hardware choices are quirky but I'm LOVING this build. I really like some of the unusual design choices they made to achieve a more scale chassis layout. There's something about having the major mechanical bits under the hood like a real truck that makes me happy. I can see what a pain this will be to work on after it's built, but it's so cool!

This step made me laugh too...

Especially since the other side has less than half the amount of screws there.

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by Jeepiac

Done for now. Really seems like its going to be pretty capable, but rear flex needs limited. Other than that and the shifting being hit and miss its ok. I'll live with the shifting for now cause I really don't want to dig into it I decided I liked mine better without the rear panels and that cheesy radiator with sticker fans lol. Stickers instead of actual details always makes me tilt my head like a dog hearing a high pitched whistle.

Countertop pose taken with a junky phone

Nice work!

I didn't use the fake sticker radiator either. I plan to mount some large hobbywing fans there instead.

I think I'll take my rear panels off as well.. the ones in the far back are going to get chewed up really quickly.

[Torp]

Finished

[Jay-Em]

Originally Posted by Jeepiac

Done for now. Really seems like its going to be pretty capable, but rear flex needs limited. Other than that and the shifting being hit and miss its ok. I'll live with the shifting for now cause I really don't want to dig into it I decided I liked mine better without the rear panels and that cheesy radiator with sticker fans lol. Stickers instead of actual details always makes me tilt my head like a dog hearing a high pitched whistle.

Countertop pose taken with a junky phone

Yeah, that radiator..blarhg! Luckily I had an Axial radiator set laying around. With a bit of fiddling it can easily be fixed in place of the fake one. I painted the fake one just silver, and shoe-goo'd the Axial radiator on top of it.
I like the rear cage details on Yours. Ii am busy making some details for the interior. Axial's detailing sets with shifters, steering wheels and what not are great to improve the somewhat crude interior of the GOM.

By the by. Having to shave off 2mm isn't too bad. Looks like a factory defect. Mine fit immediately. All parts fit without issue.

I come back to my earlier conclusion: I feel we in the EU got the V2, where most fitment problems were fixed, while the US got the very first batch that rolled-out from the factory. Warts and all..
The shifting.. well.. that's another thing. I finally got it to work correctly by setting the throw of the servo to 115% on my Carson Wheel Pro, after cutting a tiny bit from the top of the serrated shaft where the servo saver sits. Apparently the servo-arm-hole is a tad too shallow, and wobbled a bit, and made the shifting...iffy.. It also took a bit of back&forth before I got the whole servo-saver assembly fitted together as it should.

On driving it: Yup, agreed, the rear is waaaay too loose. It needs swaybars badly. I guess I'll start with putting some heavier weight oil in the dampers. The front is perfect, the rear way to springy. Oh ,and thinking about the little niggles: I h'ate the fact that the transmission needs a clockwise rotating motor. I can't use 'any of my fixed-endbell, fixed timing motors, or my venerable (waterproof ! ) LRP ai with a sensored stockspec 10.5 (the bronze one) that's now unusable. Dagnabbit! I love that combi..

*sniff* for now the Axial 21t has to do. With a 16t pinion the speed isn't too bad. And it crawls admirably. Something I didn't expect.

[TooOldForThis]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

*sniff* for now the Axial 21t has to do. With a 16t pinion the speed isn't too bad. And it crawls admirably. Something I didn't expect.

How large of a pinion do you think would fit without running out of adjustment or preventing the little access panel from closing? Is 16t about the maximum?

[Jay-Em]

Originally Posted by TooOldForThis

How large of a pinion do you think would fit without running out of adjustment or preventing the little access panel from closing? Is 16t about the maximum?

Me thinks a 18t would fit. Bigger, I wouldn’t know. The problem won’t be the access panel, but the amount one can rotate the offset motor plate to get the gear to mesh. Mebbe when Gmade starts to offer somewhat smaller spurs, the pinion can be increased further. With the 16t on the 21turn Wraith stock motor, it’s already faster ( well ‘faster’ is rather relative here) than a stock Wraith. That’s on 2s i.e. 7.4v

[Dustinf]

I did a video review on this truck.

Skip to 5:42 For jumping and fast run footage. The rest of the video is just me rambling on in a boring way.



https://youtu.be/XjRjIO-Uc1E?t=5m42s


Edit: I don't know why the embedded video isn't working... Ive used the same copied code for years.

[Jeepiac]

GREAT video, Dustin!