Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[tvih]

During building I wondered when I noticed there was included what looked like a servo mount but it wasn't used. After browsing upgrades on Gmade's site today I noticed the axle mounted aluminum servo mount. So, turns out that unused thing was indeed a servo mount for the axle. I guess it's meant or at least could be used if you were to make the front "regular" 4LS instead of 3+Panhard, considering a second front upper link was also included? Of course, can't make the GOM 4LS on the front if using a switch servo since the extra link would take up the switch servo mount's mounting point. But I do suppose it's something to keep in mind as an option if the panhard breaks with no spares in hand. Although I think the stock steering length looks too long to be used with an axle mounted servo.

Curious that the single speed gearbox still doesn't seem to be available. Would just be curious about the price. It would obviously also work well with 4LS with the lack of a switch servo.

Lastly is there a consensus on the GM30070 heavy duty diff locker, is it much better than the apparently crappy original? I've already spent more than I intended on the upgrades, but I suppose if it is durable it would be a worthy investment. No fun ending up shelved with a stripped locker, after all. Of course, only Junfac seems to list it and there's no indication of whether they have stock or not. But actually looks like postage kills it. Apparently it's $26 to ship two lockers, while for example the extra rear shocks are only $3 shipping from them? I guess it's the weight I hope RCMart gets some soon.

[mikemcE]

Previous truck from GMade was the R1. It had a nifty servo mount for the axles, I used two of them. I didn’t care for the Torque twist though with the 4link



Hang up and Drive

[thewildblue77]

Nice bit of rear steer now. Was very easy to do...the only pain was the steering arm was too long so I bought some m4 threaded rod and made my own! Next job is to take out the castle 3800 and put in the Tekin 412 3100...just waiting on some new bearings for it. Hoping this will fix the drag break. Not sure what pinion to go for..might stick with the 18 for the moment....

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[soze]

^ Wow... that thing is going to be killer in maneuverability!

[tvih]

Very cool. The 4WS seems easy enough to setup in terms of the hardware, mostly mirroring the front axle, but I'm curious though as to how the rear steer is usually controlled? Seems tricky with most car radios. A 3-position switch could of course be used but would lack precision. I guess it requires a fancier radio than my Sanwa MT-S to have enough suitable controls for the extra channels, the fourth channel in this is just two-position. Well, I guess it'd be possible to make do with 3-stage rear steer and then control gearbox with just two positions.

Once my parts orders arrive I'd actually only need the steering links/rods to be able to achieve the 4WS, although then it'd be with dogbones at the rear. Wouldn't be too expensive - although what is the required servo link length? It'd be interesting to try sometime, for sure!

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

Nice bit of rear steer now. Was very easy to do.

Hoping this will fix the drag break. Not sure what pinion to go for..might stick with the 18 for the moment...

Nice job I figured someone would try that out sooner or later.

As for the gearing, I meant to bring that up in regards to the drag brake, I'm guessing you know this already but higher gearing will provide a less powerful drag brake.

[thewildblue77]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Nice job I figured someone would try that out sooner or later.

As for the gearing, I meant to bring that up in regards to the drag brake, I'm guessing you know this already but higher gearing will provide a less powerful drag brake.

The drag brake has been no different when running either 12T or 18T.....

[thewildblue77]

The flysky gt5 has a nice feature called crawl. Plug the 2nd servo into channel 3 and off you go. Here are the available options...

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[thewildblue77]

Originally Posted by tvih

Very cool. The 4WS seems easy enough to setup in terms of the hardware, mostly mirroring the front axle, but I'm curious though as to how the rear steer is usually controlled? Seems tricky with most car radios. A 3-position switch could of course be used but would lack precision. I guess it requires a fancier radio than my Sanwa MT-S to have enough suitable controls for the extra channels, the fourth channel in this is just two-position. Well, I guess it'd be possible to make do with 3-stage rear steer and then control gearbox with just two positions.

Once my parts orders arrive I'd actually only need the steering links/rods to be able to achieve the 4WS, although then it'd be with dogbones at the rear. Wouldn't be too expensive - although what is the required servo link length? It'd be interesting to try sometime, for sure!

I measured mine at roughly 105mm.... Im running CVAs and the new set screw bits from Junfac...along with heatshrink.

[jaybob]

Originally Posted by tvih

Very cool. The 4WS seems easy enough to setup in terms of the hardware, mostly mirroring the front axle, but I'm curious though as to how the rear steer is usually controlled? Seems tricky with most car radios. A 3-position switch could of course be used but would lack precision. I guess it requires a fancier radio than my Sanwa MT-S to have enough suitable controls for the extra channels, the fourth channel in this is just two-position. Well, I guess it'd be possible to make do with 3-stage rear steer and then control gearbox with just two positions.

Once my parts orders arrive I'd actually only need the steering links/rods to be able to achieve the 4WS, although then it'd be with dogbones at the rear. Wouldn't be too expensive - although what is the required servo link length? It'd be interesting to try sometime, for sure!

I just finished the same mod today. I needed m4 set screws for the steering link. Originally, I forgot to get the 10x15x4 bearing.

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[tvih]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

I measured mine at roughly 105mm....

So, that'd be about 130mm from "eye to eye". Although as Jaybob demonstrated it can of course also be done from the "short side". Gotta see if I can find something suitable for cheap!

[thewildblue77]

I forgot the the same bearings.

Just buy a 1000mm M4 threaded rod...cost me £1.56 from hardware store. Eye to ey for me looks like 120mm....

[thewildblue77]

Originally Posted by jaybob

I just finished the same mod today. I needed m4 set screws for the steering link. Originally, I forgot to get the 10x15x4 bearing.

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What did you use for your link ? Looks a lot better than mine...

[jaybob]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

What did you use for your link ? Looks a lot better than mine...

I originally used 8/32 thread to mock up the measurements and for testing while waiting for steering links. I only used the long steering rod and used the axial 56mm rod for the servo steering link because I had an extra one when I changed my front servo to axle mounted.

The 8/32 threaded rod is ok, just more flex than I am comfortable with.

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[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

Im running CVAs and the new set screw bits from Junfac...along with heatshrink.

I wonder if Junfac will make those available for purchase (the axle piece with the set screw)?

EDIT Or........ maybe I already have those bits



these are from a drive shaft rebuild kit, I'll check these out later to see if its the same piece.

[thewildblue77]

Well Im yet to use them in anger...Theyve had a blast round the garden with a bit of load...wet grass and a 4S battery on the 3800kv gave it plenty of wheelspeed. Will try and take it out properly at the weekend.

Im just fitting a JX 5932 to my sons GOM now. I was originally going to run it on the rear of mine to match the front, but as I had just got hold of a Savox 2270 I decided to use that instead....

My son will get my 3800 and a mamba X that I managed to win on ebay last week...so he will be a happy boy.

That will free up a HW1080, so I need to think of something that I could build and put that in now.....

[thewildblue77]

That looks just like them, though I got them in a small bag with no label, some pins and some rings.

[tvih]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

Just buy a 1000mm M4 threaded rod...cost me £1.56 from hardware store. Eye to ey for me looks like 120mm....

Ah, good point, that'd get me both rods at once. Then would just need the angular rod ends for the longer rod. Those would be about $12 shipped. There's a pair of angular ones left over from the build but probably not angular enough for the link to clear the diff cover at full turn. But I guess I could test that at the front at some point.

[thewildblue77]

Originally Posted by tvih

Ah, good point, that'd get me both rods at once. Then would just need the angular rod ends for the longer rod. Those would be about $12 shipped. There's a pair of angular ones left over from the build but probably not angular enough for the link to clear the diff cover at full turn. But I guess I could test that at the front at some point.

You could always use some normal angled rod ends and just bend the longer rod slightly...saves waiting on a delivery....at £1.50 for a metre of it you can afford to have a few attempts...

[HumboldtEF]

I was just reading through the RPP blog post on their Gom build, and at the end of their part 5 post they mentioned they were using a "prototype" roof rack the GearHead has worked up, and soon to be released.
quote from the blog "Sponsor stickers in place and ready to race! Notice we also installed a Gear Head R/C prototype roof rack and LED light bar specifically designed for the GOM buggy. These units will be available soon!"

https://rppblog.com/gmade-gom-rock-b...-build-part-5/

I though it was worth mentioning since there's not a lot of aftermarket support for the Gom as of yet.

Thanks GearHead!