Injora Rock Bouncer?

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by NERodrigues

Looks like the Sidewinder 4 ends up being the happy medium. It meets all of the specs. The HH Crawlermaster Mini seems like the KV rating does not meet my specs and the Mambas are more than I would like to give up. BTW thanks again for the help. When I was working with the drift crew I was working with newbies mostly (Because none of the other drivers would lower themselves to do it) so I dealt mostly with brushed and NiMH. Although I had one brushless (sensored) from Trinity that I wish I hadn't sold and never used. I always had a love obsession with Trinity motors back in the day. Always ran the Green Machine 2 stocks. Solid brushed unit. So I suppose I will order the ESC here in the next few days, get acquainted with it and then start on the rest.

back in the 80s trinity was the only game in town i ran the monster power in my buggies

with the novak speed controler cause it had reverse lol

[NERodrigues]

Yeah my first ESC was a Novak. Cant remember the name. Until then I still used the old wiper/rheostat setup. Always a joy having to clean and sand the resistor and wiper arm.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by crawler.boy

i am intrested buy this rig also

i have hear drive line issues. Is there better aftermarket with right size ? center drive line both front and rear

drive shaft problems video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vVgjJjDSHI

they dont make driveshafts for those rigs you need to modify a shaft from another brand mostly because there diferent lenghts

and seeing as how you cant make a drive shaft shorter or longer you might have a problem getting them to fit it would be nice though if they were adjustable



maybe scx10 shafts would work on that but its gona be hard to keep them from spinning i mean they all spin eventually but zome more than others

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by crawler.boy

hmmm why have not Injora fix better shaft i wonder ?
This is a cool nice car If the drive line was issue free.

THE ORIGINAL Gmade does not fit or ?

i think the gmaid shafts spin to much lol

[ferp420]

your best bet is to look for one thats not made out of chineesium and watch out for hard steel that translates to buttery soft in china

i bet mip would put one together for ya if ya had the mesurments but thats gona run ya around a bone a pop

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by crawler.boy

i have info that Axial axles fit. There is tons of aftermarket alu axles

Integy, Injora. and so on.
Is there any good budget axles ? Injora have very fair prices. How is the Quality ?
Suit for:
1/10 RC Crawler Axial SCX10 II 90046 90047 Jeep Cherokee,
Wraith 1.9 AXI90074,
injora 310mm rock buggy

https://www.injora.com/products/cnc-...39449011650608

i really like that price and design

seeing as how the injora axles are just clones of scx10 axles im sure they would work but be carfull of chinezium axles

the aluminum is ok it grinds down kinda fast and sticks to everything like glue and the internals arent the strongest but you can upgrade down the line

the fit and finish is good they go together with out to much trouble and seem to spin free atleast the 1 i have dose

[high plains drifter]

crawler.dude-

So, metal ( in many people's opinions) does not slide as well over obstacles as compared to quality plastics. People generally think that having everything armored underneath the rig is what they need to do but most of it is just marketing bullshit and will not gain you any performance benefits. Just look at all the aftermarket aluminum, stainless, brass, etc out there. Much of that stuff is for first-timer noobs with a fist full of money or for youngsters that want to look pimpin' and cool. Fact is that to most experienced guys with a sense of taste, too much of that anodized crap just looks silly. So that being said, a lot of the more experienced guys tend to steer away from a lot of that stuff. And I like anodized aluminum stuff as much as anyone but there's a time and a place for it so using a great deal of discretion is a a valuable asset here.

Also, metal is not so forgiving regarding twisting, hard hits, etc... where it can crack or deform as opposed to good quality plastics that will flex and often settle back into place.. retaining the integrity/ strength. Damaged plastic is also much cheaper to replace if it comes to that rather than replacing busted metal parts so that's another consideration.

Keep in mind too that skid-plates ( especially under gear-boxes and differentials/ pumpkins) will reduce the rigs clearance when going over obstacles. My suggestion is to stay away from the whole "skid-plate everything" mindset until after you've had a rig for a while and have driven it a good deal. Making a lot of upgrades before even getting a new rig dirty and broken in is often a waste of money and only serves to reduce performance.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by crawler.boy

yeh that chinezium sucks

so they wear down fast and sticks to stuff like wood ? not good

glad you tell about this, i had no clue before that this can happen.

How about hard steel cover plates ? what are they called ? rock quards ? skidplates ? or hmm ? the plates that covers gearbox and axles , hmmm

plastic is the best by a mile personaly i like the pot metal axles they dont slide like plastic but they dont stick like aluminum ether and i like the extra waight it really helps with the cog

[high plains drifter]

No prob.

It's not hard to become overwhelmed by all the info, upgrades, etc... especially after seeing so many other rigs and watching so many videos/ demos. But again... the absolute best thing you can do is to pick your rig first, drive it and learn about it's characteristics/ strengths/ weaknesses, and then carefully and deliberately choose what you want to change or improve. I'm not suggesting "don't do this/ don't buy that". I'm suggesting that you not buy a bunch of parts or make assumptions about anything at this time. Get your rig FIRST. Then you can go from there.

It's true that most stock servos leave little to be desired but despite that, there's nothing wrong with running a stock servo for a while or until it craps out. With tons of info already out there combined with your own experience, you'll be able to make a more educated decision as to what will suit your needs. Some people are good with a budget servo, some people might want to run direct power, some may want an all out powerhouse. But to get to that point, I'd recommend that you maintain some patience and just run your new rig with the factory equipment.

And yeah... tires are another popular upgrade. Most factory tires aren't great but you might be surprised after breaking them in, changing foams, and maybe even doing some siping/ trimming... the same tires may actually work quite well. Again... many variables at play here and chasing hypothetical perfection simply doesn't work. Anyway... Get familiar with your stock rig before assuming you need this or that. You'll likely wind up with a better performing rig while saving yourself a lot of money and frustration in the process.

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

crawler.dude-

So, metal ( in many people's opinions) does not slide as well over obstacles as compared to quality plastics. People generally think that having everything armored underneath the rig is what they need to do but most of it is just marketing bullshit and will not gain you any performance benefits. Just look at all the aftermarket aluminum, stainless, brass, etc out there. Much of that stuff is for first-timer noobs with a fist full of money or for youngsters that want to look pimpin' and cool. Fact is that to most experienced guys with a sense of taste, too much of that anodized crap just looks silly. So that being said, a lot of the more experienced guys tend to steer away from a lot of that stuff. And I like anodized aluminum stuff as much as anyone but there's a time and a place for it so using a great deal of discretion is a a valuable asset here.

Also, metal is not so forgiving regarding twisting, hard hits, etc... where it can crack or deform as opposed to good quality plastics that will flex and often settle back into place.. retaining the integrity/ strength. Damaged plastic is also much cheaper to replace if it comes to that rather than replacing busted metal parts so that's another consideration.

Keep in mind too that skid-plates ( especially under gear-boxes and differentials/ pumpkins) will reduce the rigs clearance when going over obstacles. My suggestion is to stay away from the whole "skid-plate everything" mindset until after you've had a rig for a while and have driven it a good deal. Making a lot of upgrades before even getting a new rig dirty and broken in is often a waste of money and only serves to reduce performance.

This info is GOLD .... i just bought a few aluminum upgrades, motormount & bracket, suspension bracket, 3 servo brackets, servo arm, bumper bracket, all because it was from plastic and a few holes stripped... ( my fault )

I only have 1 RC and it is just so so much work to keep it running and in 1 piece, ha ha

Check out the YiKong thread for pictures... this hobby is a LOT of hard work

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