Anti-Wrap Links / Traction Bars

[JatoTheRipper]

I will be the first to admit that I hate the simple task of making links. I have no problem building them, but I don't like the trial and error of measuring them, sourcing the parts, piecing them together only to find out they bind because they're a few millimeters too long or too short. I know some of you will think I'm crazy and/or lazy. I will agree with you!

With that being said, I thought I'd start a thread where we can share information regarding different styles of axle anti-wrap links / traction bars, the lengths, the parts you used to make them, and their performance. I have seen links going from the axle pumpkin to the skid plate and I've also seen angled links going from the pumpkin to the frame.

Hopefully this will also help stir up some chatter in this Sawback section. It's fairly dead and I don't understand why because it is such an awesome vehicle!

Please share your link setup with photos and as many details as possible! Thank you.

[old man 52]

This is the setup i made for the front, They are attached to the skid by double link ends screwed together and on the axle housing ones mounted high and ones low. It works good on the bench but its not a driver yet.

[jp0160]

There is a Sawback Mods thread that has all of the traction bar ideas in it already. Here's a design I created a few months ago. Old_man_52's is quite similar, but much cleaner. Good luck!

[old man 52]

So jp0160 how does yours work for you , Did ya also install one on the rear axle ?

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by old man 52

This is the setup i made for the front, They are attached to the skid by double link ends screwed together and on the axle housing ones mounted high and ones low. It works good on the bench but its not a driver yet.

I like this setup. I'm curious why the links aren't spread apart so one is on the right side and one on the left?

[old man 52]

When i use to build 1 to1's back in the day i would always make a bracket that they both attach to and run them up to a shackle mounted to a cross member right behind the trans and had no problem with flex or binding at all. I'm not sure if its the right way , but its has always worked for me.

[JatoTheRipper]

I saw people running links from the skid plate to the top of the pumpkin on the rear axle. I tried putting on one link and immediately realized that it prevented the axle from moving backwards with the shackles and that prevents travel. I am going to make a mini link on the skidplate like old man 52.

[Koldham]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I saw people running links from the skid plate to the top of the pumpkin on the rear axle. I tried putting on one link and immediately realized that it prevented the axle from moving backwards with the shackles and that prevents travel. I am going to make a mini link on the skidplate like old man 52.

yeah i tried that too and it just bound everything up. not sure how its working for the other people

[OSRC]

About to get into this on my own as well with a new build. Just got the axles mounted up and was planning to build this before finishing off the chassis. Do like the mini link idea.

These might come in handy....doesn't get more scale. IF they ever com into stock.
http://www.asiatees.com/display?Misc...l=All&id=83801

[Grimsock]

Those TopCad joints are awesome! Good share.
I used Traxxas TRX Revo pushrods. They need to be shortened a little but its an easy fix. Ill post a pic if I can get home before 8pm this week.

[TIME MACHINE]

This thread just confuses me even more.

I wish someone sold these anti-wrap links, because I'm way too confused on the how/why and where aspects.

[Shape_Shifter]

Originally Posted by TIME MACHINE

This thread just confuses me even more.

I wish someone sold these anti-wrap links, because I'm way too confused on the how/why and where aspects.

Can you be more specific? Do you understand what "axle wrap" is, how it happens, and why it is bad?

[TIME MACHINE]

Originally Posted by Shape_Shifter

Can you be more specific? Do you understand what "axle wrap" is, how it happens, and why it is bad?

I have been racing buggies since the late 80's, so anything crawler/suspension related is pretty foreign to me.

I'm going to start building my Sawback very soon , so I would like to limit any potential stress to the leaf springs by doing it right the first time.

[Shape_Shifter]

Originally Posted by TIME MACHINE

I have been racing buggies since the late 80's, so anything crawler/suspension related is pretty foreign to me.

I'm going to start building my Sawback very soon , so I would like to limit any potential stress to the leaf springs by doing it right the first time.

Some basic research will clarify this but.....

Basically if you want to build your sawback to crawl, you want a very soft suspension to get the best performance. This means only using one of the leaf springs that comes in the kit. With soft, supple leaf suspensions, the risk of adversely bending or kinking the leaf grows.

Without some sort of axle wrap preventor, as the tire grips and rolls forward, the torque naturally makes the axle roll the opposite direction and the splined slip-joint of the driveshaft allows the axle to roll backwards too much. As this happens, your relatively flat leaf spring gets twisted in to an "S" shape and kinked - thus "wrapped" around the axle.

Dig?

[TIME MACHINE]

Originally Posted by Shape_Shifter

Some basic research will clarify this but.....

Basically if you want to build your sawback to crawl, you want a very soft suspension to get the best performance. This means only using one of the leaf springs that comes in the kit. With soft, supple leaf suspensions, the risk of adversely bending or kinking the leaf grows.

Without some sort of axle wrap preventor, as the tire grips and rolls forward, the torque naturally makes the axle roll the opposite direction and the splined slip-joint of the driveshaft allows the axle to roll backwards too much. As this happens, your relatively flat leaf spring gets twisted in to an "S" shape and kinked - thus "wrapped" around the axle.

Dig?

Thanks for taking time to educate me on this one.

My Sawback will primarily used in the woods, running up through the hills and through lots of brush. I guess I will have to make a decision as to how soft I want the suspension to be.

Are there three possible settings as far the leaf springs go? I love the idea of the soft suspension and the ability to crawl better than "box stock" form.....but someone is missing the boat on selling these anti-wrap links.

[klubr1986]

These are some that I've made for a super short wheelbase yj... They turned out awesome and are the only scale ones I've ever seen... Hope you enjoy...

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by klubr1986

These are some that I've made for a super short wheelbase yj... They turned out awesome and are the only scale ones I've ever seen... Hope you enjoy...

Glad I saw this thread before I started building mine.

Hows the flex with the ladder bars? They look awesome by the way

[klubr1986]

I just made I single pivot point on the frame and they do not affect the flex at all.... And there is absolutely no axle wrap anymore

[zanthrax]

These were made with soldered brass tube, brass threaded rod and Traxxas ball ends and hollow balls.

I made shackles that go where normally the rollers sit on the skidplate.
On the axles they're mounted on the tube that normally the servo mount would be attached to. On the top it's just the hollow ball, on the bottom I made a small bracket to not have the ball stick out to far below the axle.

Getting the measurements right wasn't that hard, I started with the upper link between the axle and the chassis, the length doesn't have to be very accurate since the shackle will adjust for it.
The lower link length also doesn't matter since it has a connector on only one end and the other end has to connect somewhere to the upper link.
Finally I added a small triangle between the 2 parts for bracing.

I'm really happy with these, I knocked both out in just a few hours, they look reasonably scale and work fine.

[jim_w]

So, the TF2 would potentially have this same wrap issue? And I'm understanding that there is no aftermarket fix available? Will I have still this problem if I use 2 (per side) of the leaf springs?