Installing Poulson axles... and more
 

The interest in Poulson axles was better than anticipated. I wanted to thank all who took the chance and gave them a try. I feel that most are glad they did.
I reinvested on some upgrades to the CVD bones on the next run, and will be testing this week.

In this thread I will be installing axles on a Gatekeeper chassis.
I will show how I perform a "meltdown" which is a procedure used on handguns for concealed carry. Smoothing and rounding the sharp edges that could snag on the rocks.




Mike

The shock and link mounts are tapped 4-40 most guys are drilling them out to 3mm and using a bolt and lock nut.
This one will stay 4-40 to match the hardware on the chassis.
If you start with a 3/4" or 1" bolt in the strut it makes an easy way to mock up shocks and links. When you got it all figured out replace them with the correct size bolt and locking nut.

Depending on the chassis width some spacing will be needed in the front to keep the tire from rubbing while turning.

Using the recommended Traxxas links the wheel base is close depending on the ride height it could be 1/16" over the 12.5" limit.

The height I want to start with is going to be 2.5".
With the lower steering knuckle kingpins removed the axles will sit flat on the table making the rest of the setup pretty slick. Setting the chassis up on a 1.25" block my final ride height will be close to 2.5"

So now I can measure for shocks, it looks like I can make 100mm shocks work.
Going to try the 100mm shocks from www.JPCUSTOMRCS.com.

While waiting for shocks I can do some work on the axles, I need to tear them down and perform the "meltdown"
I also need to drill holes for the upper links in the struts and a few other little tasks.

"thumbsup" looks nice and clean..have you made up your mind on what motor battery you will be running?

If you don't have a carbide burr you should get a couple. I add one to every McMaster-Carr order.

I like the 3/16" double cut radius end. Works good for building tube chassis.

Thats an easy choice for me I have never used anything but a AXI 2212-26 and a 1320 LiPo

I just looked at those motor and i couldnt find a watt out put on them..would they be about the same as a reavoler balck brushless motor I think the reavolers are about 350 watts..what esc do you run with those motors they look like they would have a geart start up on a quark esc ;-)

Use a sharpie and mark some guidelines. All that is important is they match left to right so it looks good.

On the C's the front edge is the place to watch for symmetry as it is most noticeable.

I use the carbide burr for almost everything to start.

I use a Mamba25 and a CC BEC

those edges look alot smoother..rounded them out seem to help out with clearance

Looking good Mike. Subscribing.

Don't get too aggressive with the dremel, I switch to some used 80 grit on a piece of wood.
Watch the front edge of the C keep the lines sharp for now.

Switch to some folded 220 and start to radius the edges and work out the 80 grit scratches.

Buff it with some Scotch-Brite pad, that as far as I go with polishing. Hopefully it will have a long life of rock rash to really look good.

Now some work on the rear, this is the lower leading edge of the C. It needs a little more radius. The top looks much better if you knock the corner off it. I remove the C and use the belt sander on this part.

those buffed out really nice.. do you think that buffing them will help them slide better or was it just a looks thing?

Just a looks thing.

I use the dremel and follow around the steering arm to clean up the rear steer lockouts.
Then follow the lower C radius.
Finish with 220 and Scotch-Brite

Mike, I'm enjoying this how to thread very much "thumbsup" subscribed :)