changing link geometry help

[TIMZKRAWLER]

like the title says....would there be any improvement in my link geometry by moving my upper link mounting point on my J2-TT to the red arrows in the pic...which would also lengthen the link closer to the bottom link ? i am by no means an expert in this(for that matter no experience at all ) but i know there are a lot of guys out there who are, it seems iv'e seen a few chassis lately where the upper and lower links are almost the same length and i thought i would just throw this out there before i start messing(ruining) a perfectly good chassis...thanks for any advice and input

here is another view of my link triangulation

[rockmike]

First of all im no expert.If you move those top links down to where youre refering to you will gain some antisquat in the rear and some squate in the front.Right now where youre at youre setting pretty nuetral.

Just play with it and find somthing in there that works for youre rig,its fun to watch the suspension change how it reacts to the geometery changes you do.

I personally like alot of antisquat in the rear and i have a rediculoud amount of frnt squat,seems to work well for my junk.

buddy of mine trying to dial in his tuber noticed all the angle im runnin and tried to do the same on his tuber and it ruined it he claims it drove better more nuetral.They are all differant no magic setup its driver and crawler preferance i think.

I think when youre top and bottom links are closer to same length that makes the pinion angle stay the same through suspension cycle.If the top is longer the pnion angle will travel up when it droops.Like i said im no expert on this but i think that good info for ya.

A trick i use is i got a piece of wood that lay at a steep angle with carpet on it [for high traction] and drive up that to watch how the suspension reacts to throttle input.

do a search dude there alot of info on this in here theres some dudes that really know there chit on this subject,that i try to learn from.

[Grizzly4x4]

I think it would help fight torque twist.
On my SW2 chassis, it performed best when the upper links were mounted close to the lower link point and the upper links were not parallel to the ground.

[TIMZKRAWLER]

thanks rockmike and Grizzly4x4 for the response,good info . I think i will make one of those board set ups today. Iv'e read quite a few great threads on here about anti squat,link placement,torque twist,especially this one
Anti Squat and Suspension Tech
and that's what got me thinking about this. I would just drill the holes and try moving my links but i was afraid to start drilling holes and weakening my chassis . I know Pinchflat and Kaetwo would have known what there doing when designing this chassis so that's why i hate to start changing things i really know nothing about,but i like to tinker with things ..lol.
anyway's...thanks for your insight

[Grizzly4x4]

Originally Posted by TIMZKRAWLER

thanks rockmike and Grizzly4x4 for the response,good info . I think i will make one of those board set ups today. Iv'e read quite a few great threads on here about anti squat,link placement,torque twist,especially this one
Anti Squat and Suspension Tech
and that's what got me thinking about this. I would just drill the holes and try moving my links but i was afraid to start drilling holes and weakening my chassis . I know Pinchflat and Kaetwo would have known what there doing when designing this chassis so that's why i hate to start changing things i really know nothing about,but i like to tinker with things ..lol.
anyway's...thanks for your insight

It's always good to tinker. And the board is a very useful tool.

[rockmike]

No sweat man,deffinatley build the testing board or whatever you want to call it.It helps to get some repetability for set up changes to watch the suspension react.Keep track of the degrees in which you set it at,so you know how much better it climbs or not.