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Old 08-10-2005, 11:08 PM   #1
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Default Various Chassis Modifications to Start With

What have you done to improve your rock crawler? so far i have taken off the skidplates and have turned the tires backwards what about you
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:46 AM   #2
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gutted the rear of the body,removed the windshield,painted the cage. turned just the front tires around,removed the "skid plates" ,and generaly beat the crap out of it till the body was nice and scratched up

Last edited by USMCDoc14; 08-11-2005 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 08-11-2005, 12:14 PM   #3
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soon to come to mine are aluminum skidplates and possibly even a winch we'll see
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Old 08-12-2005, 05:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got Rocks?
soon to come to mine are aluminum skidplates and possibly even a winch we'll see
aluminum is gonna "stick" like crazy with that wieght. I was thinking some 18ga steel or even that self-stick stainless steel trim used for automotive dress up.

Just a thin sheet stuck to the difs and wrapped up the front and back.

no loss is clearance and aproach angle and it keeps from gougeing/getting stock on the axles
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Old 08-12-2005, 07:21 PM   #5
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i have
-cut tires front and rear
-removed useless skid plate
-inboarded upper shock mounts, huge flex increase
-drilled small holes in back of rim to let air escapse quicker
-painted body
-tow straps(not pictured) just adds to realism




mine VS stock:





Stu
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Old 08-12-2005, 07:52 PM   #6
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WOW man that looks awesome nice paint job and it get's awesome flex as well.
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyzrus
WOW man that looks awesome nice paint job and it get's awesome flex as well.
thank you, i bought it tuesday, and have just been going wild ever sence. my friend told me about this site because i though i was the only person crazy enough to mod a Wally World crawler, lol

stu
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Old 08-12-2005, 10:34 PM   #8
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these crawler with minor mods makes them flexx gust as good as our 1000 ones
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigtracker
i have
-cut tires front and rear
-removed useless skid plate
-inboarded upper shock mounts, huge flex increase
-drilled small holes in back of rim to let air escapse quicker
-painted body
-tow straps(not pictured) just adds to realism




mine VS stock:





Stu
that flexes sweet! Could you take a closer picture of the upper shock mounts? I want to see where you relocated them to. Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2005, 08:01 AM   #10
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http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,23835.0/all.html









i didn't cut the sleeves down any

Stu
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Old 08-13-2005, 09:50 AM   #11
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sweet, thanks man
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Old 08-13-2005, 10:19 AM   #12
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figured a way to get a LOT more flex if you look where the "control arm" pivot is on the top of the axle there is little plasic tabs on the top of the axle under the cross bar of the arm. if you sneak in there with a dremel you can take them out and it adds like 10* of flex either direction.
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Old 08-13-2005, 02:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCDoc14
figured a way to get a LOT more flex if you look where the "control arm" pivot is on the top of the axle there is little plasic tabs on the top of the axle under the cross bar of the arm. if you sneak in there with a dremel you can take them out and it adds like 10* of flex either direction.
have you done this? From what i see, you will gain no flex from removing those bumpstops, you will gain down travel untill the shocks come apart. The point where the blue link connects to the chassie just controls the up and down travel.

the flex comes from the center piviot on the axle housing. From what i can see on mine, the only real thing stoping the flex is the shocks/springs. I am at the point on my front end where when one shock is almost completely open, the other still has about 1/2in of compression. I am going to go in with my Dremel tonight and take some materal out to see if i can get all the flex. updates later

Stu
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigtracker
have you done this? From what i see, you will gain no flex from removing those bumpstops, you will gain down travel untill the shocks come apart. The point where the blue link connects to the chassie just controls the up and down travel.

the flex comes from the center piviot on the axle housing. From what i can see on mine, the only real thing stoping the flex is the shocks/springs. I am at the point on my front end where when one shock is almost completely open, the other still has about 1/2in of compression. I am going to go in with my Dremel tonight and take some materal out to see if i can get all the flex. updates later

Stu
no not the bump stops.
AT THE AXLE !! the top piviot right on the top of the axle on the rear has little tabs inside the pivot. on the axle it self not the blue control arm or the body
you take those out the axle will articulate to a greater angle. The front doesnt have these. but the front can get more compression from notching the blue control arms where it comes in contact with the tub.

on mine i also cut a half inch off the bottom of the "shock tube" to get more compression and put fishing line "limiting straps" to keep the shocks from pulling apart.

I just got threw shaving 2 inches off the bottom and making a new belly pan out of a scrap piece of aluminum sheet the battery is now on its edge and the electronics are layed flat in the rear. I need to fix my belt problem next.

My goal is to buy as little of new parts as nessisary and see what i can get this to do
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:58 PM   #15
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right here on the REAR axle. under the blue control arm, on top of the rear axle,in between the rear axle mounts :-P
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCDoc14
no not the bump stops.
AT THE AXLE !! the top piviot right on the top of the axle on the rear has little tabs inside the pivot. on the axle it self not the blue control arm or the body
you take those out the axle will articulate to a greater angle. The front doesnt have these. but the front can get more compression from notching the blue control arms where it comes in contact with the tub.

on mine i also cut a half inch off the bottom of the "shock tube" to get more compression and put fishing line "limiting straps" to keep the shocks from pulling apart.

I just got threw shaving 2 inches off the bottom and making a new belly pan out of a scrap piece of aluminum sheet the battery is now on its edge and the electronics are layed flat in the rear. I need to fix my belt problem next.

My goal is to buy as little of new parts as nessisary and see what i can get this to do
do you have a digi cam? i have been thinking about shaving the mid section but havn't looked into it hard enough.

Stu
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCDoc14
no not the bump stops.
AT THE AXLE !! the top piviot right on the top of the axle on the rear has little tabs inside the pivot. on the axle it self not the blue control arm or the body
you take those out the axle will articulate to a greater angle. The front doesnt have these. but the front can get more compression from notching the blue control arms where it comes in contact with the tub.

:
OPPS! i forgot that i already ground those off. never though till i saw the Dremel marks. You know we are making Wal-Mart richer and richer by the day

Stu
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:08 PM   #18
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camera died, funny being as being a photographer is my job.

my others are at work, i might have to bring one home on mondaay
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:36 PM   #19
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o.k. so i moved my shock mounts in like in the pics , but how do you make the front of the body lock in since the mounts are now where the body should lock in?
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Old 08-13-2005, 09:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavel
o.k. so i moved my shock mounts in like in the pics , but how do you make the front of the body lock in since the mounts are now where the body should lock in?
ummm, if you look at the pic obove(with the red arrows) i never took that body mount off.

Stu
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