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08-18-2005, 07:30 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VT Burlinton
Posts: 118
| How I painted my Nylint Crawler & Painting tips
ok first comes the stupid warning, this won't apply to most people but there are a special few. if you follow this artical, i am in no way responcible for your actions or my spelling So to start, you will need one of these: a GOOD plastsic primer(pease don't be cheap with this), your color coats(a black and same silver from my truck), and a clear coat. I used a few brands of paint, mostly Plasti-kote. After you completely take abpart your body you can start to prep I used a S.O.S pad to scuff my truck up, my friend used a fine grit sand paper, whatever makes hundreds of scrachs you can use. Make sure to get every inch of what you are going to paint preped(scrached up) before you shoot your primer or IT WILL PEEL(small story behind that later) Now you would start laying thin coats of primer over your surface, i put three, alot of people say that is over kill, i say that i build overkill stuff After letting the primer coat dry, I sprayed my color coat. I put 4 coats of color on, again over kill. -i think on automotive paint the correct thing to do is wet sand the primer, that alittle much for what i was doing. Now, this step is optional. I really like the looks of a two tone but my asshole friend that was painting this body was going too fast and didn't let me get enough pics so after another here is the other color: Ok, like i said about my friend once, he didn't let me get enough pics, so your next task would be to take off any masking tape if you used any and spray a few coats of clear on the body. after giving it proper time to dry, start to put all the peases back together. Ok all the litle things: -First, the number of coats of paint are up to you, only spary one or put on ten, all it takes is time. -If you two toned it, you can wet sand where the two colors meet for a smoother finsh. -here is what happens with a poor prep job: Ok, i'm sure(more like hope) people will have questions and comments on this. I know i left a ton of stuff out and missed a bunch of pics that i will try to get more of. I havn't even seen this body completely done yet so i'm kinda waiting to see too. i will get pics ASAP. Stu EDIT: here are some pics of the finshed body, still bare. Stu Last edited by 1bigtracker; 08-22-2005 at 03:32 PM. |
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08-18-2005, 07:38 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Oceano, CA
Posts: 1,154
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i just used Rustoleum Paint For Plastic... i haven't had a problem with it flaking off at all. it's held up to many, many rolls too... this is on a 1:18, by the way...
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08-18-2005, 07:48 PM | #3 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VT Burlinton
Posts: 118
| Quote:
Stu | |
08-18-2005, 09:03 PM | #4 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Oceano, CA
Posts: 1,154
| Quote:
Last edited by 4RunnerKid; 08-19-2005 at 12:13 AM. | |
08-18-2005, 09:12 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Green River Kentucky
Posts: 1,067
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My 1:18 jeep is real thick plastic almost like a model its hard.
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08-19-2005, 05:35 PM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
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I used Krylon Fusion and that crap is the SH!T!!! Sure, it rubs off but for what I put this thing through, it better. For anyone that doesn't want to prep for 6 hours, rough up the surface with steel wool or a loght Scotchbrite pad, make sure you get in all the corners....the spray away. Krylon Fusion is the ****!!
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08-19-2005, 05:44 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 242
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I used a wire brush to scratch the **** out of my truck then painted it with the American Tradition(Lowes brand) Plastic paint and it bonded great. I have abuse the **** out of my truck and it keeps taking a beating.
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08-19-2005, 07:50 PM | #8 |
06 Super National Champ Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
Posts: 11,361
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I was at Lowe's today getting stuff for the bathroom...saw a couple of different types of plastic paint there. One was a paint sold by Valspar and didn't need a special primer. Then there was a Valspar primer that allowed you to spray enamels over it. Thought I'd share. |
08-20-2005, 01:16 PM | #9 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: OC
Posts: 29
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I used Krylon Plastic Fusion, it worked well. One thing it says on the can is that it's made for smooth plastic, I don't think theres any real point in roughin up the surface. I didn't use any primer either. I started by completely disassembling the body, painting everything black, then taping it off and painting the white sections, heres some pics right after I painted it: You might also notice that I trimmed the front fenders due to the fact that they kept getting caught. I also trimmed the rear for better clearance. The paint has held up very well, heres a pic after a night of hard wheelin: EDIT: Does anyone know how to remove the blue links? I wanted to take them off and paint them white but they had little pins in there I dont know how to remove. Last edited by 911rc; 08-20-2005 at 01:31 PM. |
08-20-2005, 06:19 PM | #10 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VT Burlinton
Posts: 118
| Quote:
- i would like to say that i also like how you put a color insert on the hood, it really contrasts the black nicely, think i might do the same to mine next time its up for paint. Stu Edit: Can I get a closer look at how you cut the fenders? | |
09-28-2005, 01:02 PM | #11 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: ...Here & There
Posts: 1,590
| I used Plasti-kote fast dry enamel on mine. I used crome & flat black. It made it look like an alum. body. It has held up extremely well! It took 2 cans cause they are small. Pictures coming soon: |
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