08-30-2005, 07:26 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2005 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 115
| Bondo help
hey im pretty new an i just finished dovetailing my 1:18 jeep an i wus wondering what brand of bondo or putty i could use to help smooth out the back? i will post pics once my body is dried an stuff. thanks
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08-30-2005, 07:31 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,191
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well you could use bondo, any other plastic body filler would do the job. You could even possibly use JB weld.
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08-30-2005, 07:40 PM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2005 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 115
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where could i get the bondo an stuff
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08-30-2005, 07:59 PM | #4 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Lost in Florida
Posts: 934
| Quote:
any local auto parts store "pep-boys" "advance" | |
08-31-2005, 09:54 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Humble
Posts: 800
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I would recommend modeling putty from a local hobby shop, it's self hardening. Bondo will work OK but not really intended for plastic and may chip off if you roll down a rock pile. JB weld is strong and sandable and will strengthen the joint, I use it for many projects and than use a body filler to smooth out the joint. Last edited by ripper7777777; 09-01-2005 at 10:38 PM. |
08-31-2005, 10:26 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,191
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Modeling putty is very weak though. Its like a soft plaster, not going to take to rock rash well.
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09-01-2005, 02:24 AM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: socal
Posts: 173
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i used bondo on a clod body and it is holding up just fine
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09-01-2005, 10:27 AM | #8 |
Powered by Awesome Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 3,622
| Bondo is a plastic body filler, once it dries and you sand it just the way you want it, be sure to use a glaze on the repair job and sand it with at least a 4-500 grit then it should be ready for primer and paint.. the glaze helps to fill in any imperfections like air bubbles and whatnot.... be sure to post pics when you are done. or now.. whatever |
09-01-2005, 07:42 PM | #9 |
Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,814
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fwiw i use epoxy on my 1:6 21st century rigs followed with the spot glaze.
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09-01-2005, 10:46 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Humble
Posts: 800
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I suppose we should have asked, is this just to make it look smoother or are you trying to make the joint stronger and smoother? As far as fillers go Bondo brand is the worst, it will work as well as Tamiya, I'm yet to have Tamiya putty fail on any of my projects, I prefer a 2 stage putty, faster hardening but I know a lot of people have a hard time with 2 stage putties, Tamiya is self hardening but Highly Toxic, if you want true strength in a filler I recommend Duraglass, Walmart does not sell it, but it's all I use on 1:1's. JB Weld works very well on a variety of substrates, I use it on Plastic Hard bodies and to reinforce Lexan shells, I even used it to rebuild the water chambers in an old dirtbike waterpump. Since we are going off the deep end, Fiberglass can be purchased at Home Depot and is really not that hard to work with, just use gloves and a mask. |
09-01-2005, 11:02 PM | #11 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Lost in Florida
Posts: 934
| Quote:
who needs a mask ?!?!?! fumes are fun just kiddin | |
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