Hub/knuckle popping issue remedy
 

Well.... I just typed a full page thread on how to fix this and for some reason the forum said I wasn't logged in and erased my whole thread. :flipoff:

So..... I'll keep it shorter and simpler this time.

This is definately a design flaw. The axle shaft is too short or the turning radius is too tight.

The only way to prevent the busted knuckle/axle spinning outside the hub/popping problem is by limiting the turning radius.

You can try super glueing some nuts onto the front axle so the knuckles hit the nuts prior to full turn/lock. (works okay but nuts kept falling off)

or

You can go to the hobby shop and pick up some threaded rod (same size as original tie rod) and nuts and washers and replace your tie rod with this combo. By pinching the washer with two nuts on each side so they contact the axle housing prior to full turn and then bending the ends through the knuckles (just like original tie rod) you will have a permenant fix for this issue.

I will try and get a pic up soon so you can see what I'm talking about.

Or

You can keep wheeling your stock rig and bust the hub and knuckle up.

All of this is not a fix for a busted knuckle it's a preventitive measure to prevent it from happening on a new Crawler.

Nylint needs to address this issue with either a longer axle shaft or bigger turning radius.

until then... Try this. It works.

later, j

Here is a pic of the new tie rod with the limiters on it. Sorry it's blurry but you get the idea.

later, j

http://www.tjhardcore.com/forum/files/pdr_0083.jpg

Oh... and don't just throw them on there and tell me it doesn't work because you didn't limit it enough. You have to reduce the turning radius enough to make a difference. I would say at least by 30%.


Good luck and Good times! :mrgreen:

later again, j

Very nice mod!

Seems to me if you put limits on the tie rod or knuckle that when turning you will be putting stress on the left knuckle post that the steering gear is attached to by the pitman arm, for lack of a better term. I have stress marks on this when turning full lock to lock, much worse when turning to full left because the tire hits the axle housing limiting it there.

I'd say, the best way to limit steering is within the controller itself. You would need to put some stops in to keep the "steering wheel" from turning from full lock to lock. But I guess you would really have to do both mods since when you get a tire wedged between a rock is when mine pulled out.

I would probably put a two piece tie rod on, so you can adjust toe in. Many have complained about death wobble when in high gear. This way you could adjust the alignment more easily.

Keith

I wouldn't personally want to lessen the turning radius on this thing. It sucks as it is. it needs to be able to turn tighter. I have to make like 20 point u-turns to line it up

x2.

But would you rather lessen your turning ability and keep your front axle together, or have a good turning radius and a broken car?

Ya.... perhaps a few of you are missing the point. :roll:


Wheel your Crawler hard for a while...

Bust up a hub and knuckle....

Then get a new axle assembly.....

and refer back to this thread....

:flipoff:

later, j :lol:

The main reason it doesnt turn tight is because of the locked front axle..
We need another channel to release the locked front end!!!
Try turning a full size rig with a locker up front,you'll see...
Later

I do it all the time. I have a detroit EZ locker in the front of my YJ.

On mine the problem seemed to be that the pin in the dog bone moved so the lengths were different. Would it not work to just tack that pin in place??