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Old 09-27-2005, 08:44 PM   #1
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Question 8t or 9t pinion ?

im runnin lathes with the stock clod pins. I need to gear it down a bit but not sure witch ones to get . naturally less is better but my ? is will 1 tooth make that big of a diff to pay 3x's as much per gear. thanks in advance
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:02 PM   #2
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I would invest in a set of 8-tooth pinions. If it turns out you like them, great. And if you don't, you can always buy a set of 9-tooth pinions, and then you will already have the 8-tooths should you ever decide to go back. Keep in mind, you will need adjustable motor mounts if you want to run low tooth pinions on Clod axles.
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Scientist
Keep in mind, you will need adjustable motor mounts if you want to run low tooth pinions on Clod axles.
I run 8 tooth pinions and I don't use adj. motor mounts. I just leave the screw sleaves out and use the left side mounting holes on the motor can.
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Old 09-29-2005, 10:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigflex
im runnin lathes with the stock clod pins. I need to gear it down a bit but not sure witch ones to get . naturally less is better but my ? is will 1 tooth make that big of a diff to pay 3x's as much per gear. thanks in advance
9t and 8t pinions are for lazy girlymen that don't want to lean how to drive. They are a crutch. Step up, pull you balls out of your purse and leave the stock pinions in. Learn to feather the throttle, 55t with 13t pins have plenty of tourque for any situation. AND you will have juice if you ever need it. Save your $$ on adapters and new pinions and keep the stockers.
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Old 09-29-2005, 11:09 AM   #5
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I run a 1 tooth pinion. It's awesome.

When not running the 1 tooth, I sometimes run a paddle tire in place of the pinion gear, which is cool too.
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Old 09-29-2005, 11:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PinchFlat
9t and 8t pinions are for lazy girlymen that don't want to lean how to drive. They are a crutch. Step up, pull you balls out of your purse and leave the stock pinions in. Learn to feather the throttle, 55t with 13t pins have plenty of tourque for any situation. AND you will have juice if you ever need it. Save your $$ on adapters and new pinions and keep the stockers.
That's kinda like saying a big block Chevy, a Dana 300 with stock 2.6:1 ratio, and some 3.73 diff gears is all you need, isn't it? :neutral: That's what all the real men in UROC run.

What gears you run will depend on the overall weight of your rig. I'm pretty sure the Utah guys like to build their rigs as light as possible...so for them a lathe and a 13t pinion might be fine. For those of us that like some ground pressure on the tires and run a bit heavier rig, we'll see axle stall much sooner. The solution? Gear down. If you feel you don't have enough wheelspeed...run a 7 cell pack.

Gearing down will also give you better throttle control even if your speedo doesn't have throttle response that's as smooth as that of a Super Rooster. (or if you get twitchy on the throttle)

It'll also help the truck hold it's place on the rocks easier if you should need to move yourself on the course for any reason.

*EDIT*

You'll also see a lower amp draw and increased run times.

Last edited by JasonInAugusta; 09-29-2005 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonInAugusta
That's kinda like saying a big block Chevy, a Dana 300 with stock 2.6:1 ratio, and some 3.73 diff gears is all you need, isn't it? :neutral: That's what all the real men in UROC run.

What gears you run will depend on the overall weight of your rig. I'm pretty sure the Utah guys like to build their rigs as light as possible...so for them a lathe and a 13t pinion might be fine. For those of us that like some ground pressure on the tires and run a bit heavier rig, we'll see axle stall much sooner. The solution? Gear down. If you feel you don't have enough wheelspeed...run a 7 cell pack.

Gearing down will also give you better throttle control even if your speedo doesn't have throttle response that's as smooth as that of a Super Rooster. (or if you get twitchy on the throttle)

It'll also help the truck hold it's place on the rocks easier if you should need to move yourself on the course for any reason.

*EDIT*

You'll also see a lower amp draw and increased run times.
I'm going to have to agree with jason on this one ... anyone who has run a 1:1 crawler knows you wana get those gears grany low. I think even with the lighter rigs you still want as much low end as you can get... as for speed I run 8 tooth pinoins in my rig (which is about 7.75lbs) and I get more than enough wheel speed when I need it plus a big differance in low end vs. 13t or even 9t .... I would recomend the 8t for a crawler and 13t for a mud bogger IMHO!
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Old 09-29-2005, 02:56 PM   #8
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I really like the 8T pinions with a 7 cell pack in my shafty Clod. I have both good crawlability and wheel speed to break things.
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Old 09-29-2005, 03:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster
I'm going to have to agree with jason on this one ... anyone who has run a 1:1 crawler knows you wana get those gears grany low. I think even with the lighter rigs you still want as much low end as you can get... as for speed I run 8 tooth pinoins in my rig (which is about 7.75lbs) and I get more than enough wheel speed when I need it plus a big differance in low end vs. 13t or even 9t .... I would recomend the 8t for a crawler and 13t for a mud bogger IMHO!
I think that the amount of wheel peed you need depends on the area your running. For example, if you had 8t here you could only go half the places you could with 10t.
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster
I would recomend the 8t for a crawler and 13t for a mud bogger IMHO!

while i totally agree with you, i find it hilarious that you capitalized and put an exclamation point at the end of imho. just how humble is your opinion if you are yelling and excited about it?


but anyway, back on topic. yes a one tooth difference doesn't sound like much but you have to take into concidderation how small of numbers we are talking about.

the difference between 8 and 9 is much larger than the difference between 15 and 16. see what i mean? as your pinion gets smaller, any changes have increasingly larger effects on your final gear ratio. dropping from 13 to 9 is a 31% drop, while dropping from 13 to 8 is a 39% drop. as you can see, that is a pretty big difference. and just so you know, the difference between the 9 and 8 tooth pinion is 12% that is a lot of change all at once for just one tooth.
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:01 AM   #11
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thanks cur the stats you posted really puts some perspective on it. thanks bro
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:11 AM   #12
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Don't forget, you can run different pinions in the front and rear.
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike
I think that the amount of wheel peed you need depends on the area your running. For example, if you had 8t here you could only go half the places you could with 10t.
I don't think adding 2 teeth to your pinions will allow you to climb twice as many places 8 tooth pinions.

I like to crawl up obsticles using driving technique not race up them.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:07 AM   #14
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If anyone is trying to compare 1:1 and radio controlled rock crawlinlg, it shows how little you know. They are very much the same.......but sooooo different....at the same time. If you have been doing rc crawling for a while, you will have finally realized that you should throw 1:1 crawling out the window when designing and building a rig. It ain't apples and oranges but it is: red apples and green apples.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:16 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkDigler
It ain't apples and oranges but it is: red apples and green apples.
I was thinking it was more like Plums and Prunes.
:neutral:
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PinchFlat
I was thinking it was more like Plums and Prunes.
:neutral:
Uuuuuuuuuuuh. Sort of.

Probably more like waffles and Belgian Waffles.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkDigler
If anyone is trying to compare 1:1 and radio controlled rock crawlinlg, it shows how little you know. They are very much the same.......but sooooo different....at the same time. If you have been doing rc crawling for a while, you will have finally realized that you should throw 1:1 crawling out the window when designing and building a rig. It ain't apples and oranges but it is: red apples and green apples.
I totally agree! I was only comparing the gearing, wouldnt you say that when it comes to gearing it is apples to apples?
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster
I totally agree! I was only comparing the gearing, wouldnt you say that when it comes to gearing it is apples to apples?
No.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:42 AM   #19
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A proportional esc, linked to electric motors gives a totally different effect than a gas burning motor with fuel lines and a throttle cable, etc, etc, etc.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:46 AM   #20
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Also, take into account that the terrain that we are crawlin on is totally different, when you look at it in scale perspective. It requires totally different gearing than our 1:1 counterparts. And what about tire size in proportion to the truck size.....and compare the tire/truck size to the obsticles. What about the weight of our rigs? What about wheel speed and rpm? Lower geared is not always better. How about driving style...or lack there of.
Bottom line is...... I have no idea of what I am talking about.
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