05-15-2009, 01:21 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: ICE BERG HELL
Posts: 202
| Driveshaft issue
Hey guys, I aint new to crawling by any means but this is the FIRST TIME I have tried DIG. Here's my problem though: Here is the rig- AX10, 35T Warrior w/14t on Rooster and 7 cell NiMH, Losi Comp Claws with 12oz ea front and 7oz each rear, and DNA DIG, also got bent links. Problems: MIP Driveshaft cut down wont work as the female end is not splined far enough, can get forward barely but when DIG moved to free wheel or locked, the splines loose contact inside, male goes in TOO FAR (no comments from the peanut gallery ) so free wheel would still work but cant lock. Ok so I went back to Stock Drivshaft, figuring that I ran all last season but on a 55t and abotu half the wheel weight, like that should be ok (though I did have to put new driveshafts in at one point), HELL NO!!! It lasted not 5 mins, not anywhere near a bad bind and popped the rear shaft and of course after the first time its over popped like every 2 mins after that. Now i got a couple sets of Traxxas Driveshafts to use but afraid that aint going to save the matter if the stock died that fast but I could be wrong. I expect to have to change them once in a while BUT 5 MINS on nothing serious. So does anyone have any ideas or will the traxxas shafts actually hold up that well over stock axial crap so I aint changing driveshafts every day I run???? |
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05-15-2009, 01:29 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Back in Sunny SoCal
Posts: 210
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if you liked your MIPs, look into thundertech "shortened shafts"..... think they are like $35. they are same as your MIPs, but made for dig-think they are made by MIP for thundertech--- never had a problem with em
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05-15-2009, 01:33 AM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: LOMPOC
Posts: 701
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I have used the Traxxas shafts from day one and the only problem I have had with the yoke is they didn't get a good bite on the output. I had to modify them a bit to work better. Here is what I did. I took a dremel with cutoff wheel and smoothed out the end of the yoke. I got rid of the step all together. That gave me a better bite and haven't had one pop off since I did it. Try that and make sure you have the dig with steel internals. I destroyed a aluminum output on the stock internals. My rig Blackjack chassis Axial tranny with vf dig tlt's Mayhem double phatty's and chisels on all four. 1lb total weight in front 14oz. total weight rear HH revolver outrunner motor. HTH. |
05-15-2009, 06:35 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2009 Location: East Texas
Posts: 67
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I have always ran the traxxas shafts and have stripped wheel hexs before ever popping a drive shaft and they are shorter than stock, so you dont have to cut much. |
05-15-2009, 07:26 AM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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i just started popping my drive shats off even with the drive shaft rings and split one ear on the front shaft only to get that fixed and blow the rear i think im going to get the mip short shaft and long shaft combo ill let you kno how it works if i ever make it to the lhs
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05-15-2009, 07:57 AM | #6 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Hills Of Maine
Posts: 135
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05-15-2009, 08:01 AM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Hills Of Maine
Posts: 135
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I have also used traxxas shafts (pede) since I built Hillbilly. I've abused the heck out of that truck, overpowered with a Novak SS5800, pushing things and plain hammering it over things. Hillbilly is over 6 months old now and not one shaft problem, but have also spun a few hexes lol |
05-15-2009, 08:05 AM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Wayne county. PA
Posts: 2,507
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i went with the pede metal yokes and shafts and have no problems what so ever from the driveshafts....my DNA dig wore out before i had shaft troubles ....plus for 10 bucks from a LHS i got there 6 pack pro pack of shafts so i have extras when needed....i'll get another set of there metal yokes so i have a spare driveshaft i can just pop it on with just a hex wrench in a repair situation on the rocks in a comp if needed and not get a DNF ....better then any 40.00 dollar driveshaft out there IMO ................bob .... |
05-15-2009, 08:09 AM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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05-16-2009, 04:53 PM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: ICE BERG HELL
Posts: 202
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OK, then traxxas will hold up. I just looked at the scale rig I have that last years comp driveline went into and realized its got traxxas on metal yokes too, explains a lot that I forgot about,lol, forgot that when I changed driveshafts I had put traxxas ones on. Hell I am about to the point of re dilling the holes for the tranny to move it foward so I could use the MIP since I have the TCS Delrin tranny plate, I can get by with that, but since my traxxas ones will be good, probably aint going to mess with it right now, just switch so I can run it. Thanks for the help guys, I was getting FRUSTRATED cause I never had these issues last year but now I know why.
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05-16-2009, 08:59 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento
Posts: 2,373
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My pede rear shaft has a twist in the splines but never popped off with 45 turn on 3s that gets beat petty good. The MPIs are holding fine with the 500 puller on 3s. Both seem to be plenty tough. Make sure ya locktight the yoke set screws.
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