RCCrawler Forums

nismotuningrocks · 09-25-2009, 10:03 AM

I don't mean bent as in clearance bent, I mean wackjawed bent, should I try to bend them back or buy a new set? They are KK mid. links, anyone have a suggestion for a more resilient link, or possibly an aluminum link with revo ends?

xirtic · 09-25-2009, 10:27 AM

1. Do not bend a link back....they are weakened and will just bend again. Delrin would require some heat to really be bent back, and if you overheat them they will snap under pressure. This is not a commentary on KK links...it is just an observation on 100% delrin links in general.

2. I am not a fan of aluminum links. This is a personal preference. When aluminum scratches, it sticks to rock instead of sliding on rock. This behavior seems to be contrary to the end result of being able to slide on the link on the rocks.

3. I am a fan of links made of delrin tube over threaded steel. This is my preferred solution, and is not a proven fact. I use 1/4" delrin tube, a 5/32" drill bit to hollow the tube, and 4mm threaded rod. I make my bends in a custom jig that I built to ensure build consistancy. These then are finished with Revo ends. I have yet to break one of this style....hence why it is my preference.

I am not stating that any style is inherently better than another style as different styles work better for different styles of rig and different driving styles. I am just stating my observations and experiences.

nismotuningrocks · 09-25-2009, 11:24 AM

I would use your method, but I don't have the tools or knowledge to make my own links, thanks for the info!

JeepinOR · 09-25-2009, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismotuningrocks

I would use your method, but I don't have the tools or knowledge to make my own links, thanks for the info!

I'd say it takes more time researching and learning how, than to actually make them; it's fairly simple, fun, and satisfying. If you have a few decent home improvement stores in your area and access to same basic hand tools, it can be done.

oldhippie · 09-25-2009, 01:23 PM

I also have some bent kk links (they have been abused pretty hard). I got some 1/4" derlin and gonna try to cut some out.

nismotuningrocks · 09-25-2009, 06:36 PM

I technically have the tools, but not the knowledge or steady hand lol

xirtic · 09-25-2009, 09:16 PM

The trick is not so much the cutting as it is the bending....bending the same exact bend....a jig is almost necessary, but easy enough to make.

scrounge · 09-25-2009, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismotuningrocks

I technically have the tools, but not the knowledge or steady hand lol

Making them yourself is half the fun. the other half is when you can tell other people you "made your own".

Do you have a bench vise?

Delrin tube is inexpensive, so go get some and start cuttin & drillin

The Violator · 09-25-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismotuningrocks

I don't mean bent as in clearance bent, I mean wackjawed bent, should I try to bend them back or buy a new set? They are KK mid. links, anyone have a suggestion for a more resilient link, or possibly an aluminum link with revo ends?

http://downtowndelrin.com/

these work for me. I have never broke a KK link, but have seen some of them bent. I think it was probably a flaw in the delrin, not KK design.

nismotuningrocks · 09-26-2009, 04:40 PM

I think the process for kamis link just lends itself to bending, its cut out of a board istead of tubes

nsg1rc · 09-27-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xirtic

The trick is not so much the cutting as it is the bending....bending the same exact bend....a jig is almost necessary, but easy enough to make.

How did you go about making your jig?

Neil

xirtic · 09-27-2009, 02:34 PM

Originally I made a simple jig using a piece of 1x4 pine and drove a 6d finishing nail thru it like a spike....then used a 13mm socket screwed to the board for the bend location. I set it so that the bent link would end as a parallel to the top of the 1x4 when bent. The link being made would have a rod end attached so that it would stay on the spike. The placement for the socket was determined using the Axial stock bent links as a pattern. This worked well, except that I was destroying a lot of rod ends due to the heat from the heat gun melting the rod ends a bit.

The new jig uses a piece of steel as the base to replace the 1x4 pine. The nail is replaced by a piece of 1/8" aluminum angle with a 4mm hole where the link's threaded rod is fastened with a 4mm nut. This piece of aluminum is lined up where the shoulder of the link would have been....at the same angle as when the rod end and link were on the nail. The socket is at the same location. The bend is COMPLETE when the link is parallel to the top of the steel.

I know that this is all a bit unclear.....so I attached a pic to clear it all up. LOL I hope that it helps. The threaded rod with the nuts on it is just representative of a link and I store the nuts there so that I do not lose them. Pardon the not so good Blackberry camera.

RustlerHustler · 09-28-2009, 09:47 PM

If you really feel that you can't make them you could always try the "phatty's" from r2j kustoms:

http://r2jkustoms.com/services.html

About half way down on the right side. I run the straights on my SWX and am really impressed with them. Have taken a some big falls and they have held up just fine

09-25-2009, 10:03 AM	#1
nismotuningrocks Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Winchester Posts: 244	Bent delrin links I don't mean bent as in clearance bent, I mean wackjawed bent, should I try to bend them back or buy a new set? They are KK mid. links, anyone have a suggestion for a more resilient link, or possibly an aluminum link with revo ends?

09-27-2009, 02:34 PM	#12
xirtic RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet Posts: 1,287	Originally I made a simple jig using a piece of 1x4 pine and drove a 6d finishing nail thru it like a spike....then used a 13mm socket screwed to the board for the bend location. I set it so that the bent link would end as a parallel to the top of the 1x4 when bent. The link being made would have a rod end attached so that it would stay on the spike. The placement for the socket was determined using the Axial stock bent links as a pattern. This worked well, except that I was destroying a lot of rod ends due to the heat from the heat gun melting the rod ends a bit. The new jig uses a piece of steel as the base to replace the 1x4 pine. The nail is replaced by a piece of 1/8" aluminum angle with a 4mm hole where the link's threaded rod is fastened with a 4mm nut. This piece of aluminum is lined up where the shoulder of the link would have been....at the same angle as when the rod end and link were on the nail. The socket is at the same location. The bend is COMPLETE when the link is parallel to the top of the steel. I know that this is all a bit unclear.....so I attached a pic to clear it all up. LOL I hope that it helps. The threaded rod with the nuts on it is just representative of a link and I store the nuts there so that I do not lose them. Pardon the not so good Blackberry camera. Attached Images

09-25-2009, 10:27 AM	#2
xirtic RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet Posts: 1,287	1. Do not bend a link back....they are weakened and will just bend again. Delrin would require some heat to really be bent back, and if you overheat them they will snap under pressure. This is not a commentary on KK links...it is just an observation on 100% delrin links in general. 2. I am not a fan of aluminum links. This is a personal preference. When aluminum scratches, it sticks to rock instead of sliding on rock. This behavior seems to be contrary to the end result of being able to slide on the link on the rocks. 3. I am a fan of links made of delrin tube over threaded steel. This is my preferred solution, and is not a proven fact. I use 1/4" delrin tube, a 5/32" drill bit to hollow the tube, and 4mm threaded rod. I make my bends in a custom jig that I built to ensure build consistancy. These then are finished with Revo ends. I have yet to break one of this style....hence why it is my preference. I am not stating that any style is inherently better than another style as different styles work better for different styles of rig and different driving styles. I am just stating my observations and experiences.

09-25-2009, 11:24 AM	#3
nismotuningrocks Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Winchester Posts: 244	I would use your method, but I don't have the tools or knowledge to make my own links, thanks for the info!

09-25-2009, 01:23 PM	#5
oldhippie I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento Posts: 2,373	I also have some bent kk links (they have been abused pretty hard). I got some 1/4" derlin and gonna try to cut some out.

09-25-2009, 06:36 PM	#6
nismotuningrocks Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Winchester Posts: 244	I technically have the tools, but not the knowledge or steady hand lol

09-25-2009, 09:16 PM	#7
xirtic RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mount Juliet Posts: 1,287	The trick is not so much the cutting as it is the bending....bending the same exact bend....a jig is almost necessary, but easy enough to make.

09-26-2009, 04:40 PM	#10
nismotuningrocks Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Winchester Posts: 244	I think the process for kamis link just lends itself to bending, its cut out of a board istead of tubes

09-28-2009, 09:47 PM	#13
RustlerHustler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ukiah Posts: 370	If you really feel that you can't make them you could always try the "phatty's" from r2j kustoms: http://r2jkustoms.com/services.html About half way down on the right side. I run the straights on my SWX and am really impressed with them. Have taken a some big falls and they have held up just fine

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