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12-15-2005, 10:51 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
| The $5 Wheelbase Stretch How-To ---56K Warning
So after fitting my 2.2's and enjoying the improved crawling ability, I decided to make it a little better. Wheelbase stretch time. The following mod can be done with a total cost of approx $5. Less if you already have the rod. Home Depot Aluminum Round Tube 1/16th" Thick x 1/2" diameter x 36" long. First decision was do I want to stretch it via the third link or by the two droop links. I decided on the droop links as I figured a long third link would be subject to a lot of stress and might bend easier. Step 1: Remove Droop links Step 2: Identify droop limiter pin Step 3: Using a sharp blade cut off protruding portion of pin. Step 4: Cut links in half straight down the center of the pins. You want to assure you have enough link to fit in the tube. Step 5: Using the same sharp blade remove whatever is left of each pin half from center of link groove. Step 6: Cut 4 identical pieces of rod depending on the amount of stretch you want. I cut 4 38mm rods to correspond to the 8.5" wheelbase I wanted. Press in on the edge of the link halfs and insert them fully into the rod. Wash.. Rinse.. Repeat 7 times until all links have been assembled. Step 7: Reassemble your links to the truck, charge up the battery pack and go climb some vertical shtuff. Here's the Scorpion Climbing the Ledge: Click here to watch The-ledge Hope this was helpful. ...Papewayo http://www.putfile.com |
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12-15-2005, 11:56 PM | #2 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Eielson AFB, AK
Posts: 91
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Nice - what wheels are those? Did you use the 2.2 how to for those or what?
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12-16-2005, 12:58 AM | #3 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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those are traxxas pede wheels, looks like he used the same method... note the 4 screws on the wheels. It looks good extended! Im not sure if the jeep will still look as good but it is needed once you put 2.2s on. |
12-16-2005, 01:38 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: CRAWLifornia (SoCal)
Posts: 58
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looks good. I did the same thing with a sharpie marker.
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12-16-2005, 09:57 AM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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I did use the How-To for the 2.2 conversion I found here, Props to the author of that post. It made it soooo easy. I am using some Traxxas 'pede, wheels I had lying around with Proline Dirt Hawg sans foams. I didn't want to use a sharpie for three reasons, I really need those sharpies when when I cut my comms. I didn't want any flex from the links. Just plain ol vanity, I like the look the aluminum parts give the truck. FYI, If you plan on doing this mod on the scorpion, and have done the axle mount servo mod posted by, I believe JIA, you will need to remove the front bumper and light assembly due to its hitting the servo when in a real tricky spot. Next thing I'll need to do is Dovetail the rear a bit, once I find that post. Thanks all for the input. |
12-16-2005, 10:03 AM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Winston Salem
Posts: 235
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Well...thats nice and all...but i just lathed a dowl rod down to replace the pin that connects the axle to the swing arm. i like that way better cause i can revert back to stock if need be. I am amazed at the amount of flexed gained from doing that!
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12-16-2005, 10:31 AM | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Leitchfield, KY
Posts: 23
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I too prefer stetching the two links, I think it looks better personally, I never liked the short, stubby links. I did the same thing, but rather than sliding something over it, I wanted a thinner, smoother approach, since I am working on a scale crawler. I put K'nex rods in the stock links, glued them to hold in place, and melted the plastic slightly and fused it all into one smooth link. Turned out well and gave me a 10.5" wheelbase. |
12-16-2005, 11:29 AM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
| I already modified the 3rd link on the truck with an aluminum one and some threaded rod. But I like the iea of keeping that one thin and short. In my opinion, for what it's worth , since that link actually supports the weight of the vehicle and is subject to a lot of stress if the rear axle is bound, it could bend/break if too long, due to leverage. Modifying the two side links gave me a matching aluminum look to complement the third one and provided an elongation on a less stressed area. I'm thinking about creating a couple of one piece units for the side/cross/and third link in multiple sizes so that I can switch them out depending on the mood I'm in, and what I want to crawl over. |
12-16-2005, 11:30 AM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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BTW, XDD that looks sweet.
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12-16-2005, 12:32 PM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: classified
Posts: 320
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Looks good. You should cut your bottom skid flat for better clearance.
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12-16-2005, 12:53 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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Yup I was tthinking about trimming it up some more. Now that i don't need to the droop limiter slot anylonger I think that's next.
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12-16-2005, 03:43 PM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 1,673
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Wow, that thing looks great! And it looks like a HUGE improvement over stock!
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12-16-2005, 04:11 PM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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It is. The ability of this thing amazes me. I have yet to touch any of my other umpteen RC's in weeks. I have a video here Click here to watch Manhandling-the-Rock-Pile that shows it manhandling the "rock" pile in my backyard. Sorry for the Audio and lapses I don't have video editing software. With the new body I just swapped onto it, it climbs even better. I'm going to need much bigger rocks. http://www.putfile.com |
12-18-2005, 10:17 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ayden
Posts: 24
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What did you use to cover the belly?
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12-18-2005, 10:36 PM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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A sheet of 12x12x1/8 ABS cut and heat molded, then CA'd to the tub.
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12-18-2005, 10:39 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ayden
Posts: 24
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Lol ABS sounds like it could be flexible plastic...? But I've got no clue on "CA". |
12-18-2005, 10:44 PM | #17 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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Actually ABS is a pretty rigid plastic but it's gets really flexxible when you apply the proper coaxing with a milwaukee (sp?) heat gun, Hehehehe. CA is just hobby jargon for Super/Crazy glue. Stands for CyanoAcrylate. Sorry, I get too used to speaking in acronyms. |
12-18-2005, 10:50 PM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ayden
Posts: 24
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Ahh I gotcha, thanks.
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12-19-2005, 11:57 PM | #19 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Eielson AFB, AK
Posts: 91
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I did this with the same materials. I made it WAY too long first time around.. now I got it extended pretty good.. but I notice it flexes like poo since it rubs . I think I am going to extend it via third link a tad . (doesnt need much to put it far enough away from rubbing to allow more flex). Ill upload my extended goofy (too long) pics and my extended right pics tomorrow. |
12-21-2005, 06:49 PM | #20 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando
Posts: 167
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Where are you getting rub?
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