Nylint Chrome Removal...
 

Just FYI that the CHROME purple power removal trick DOES work on the nylint wheels.

If you soak these babies in them for about 8+ hours you have to do absolutely no scrubbing...I put them in a few hours before going to work, come back this morning and they are all nice and white, don't have to use a toothbrush on any of them, just rinse them under the sink...

Next up is to experiment with dye/paint on the hubcap to see what works best...

Easy off oven cleaner works in about 40 seconds....

Eh, but i have tons of purple power in the gallon bottles around here, no oven cleaner in sight, and i know for a fact that i can leave them unsupervised in the purple power without damage...

Not like I was in a hurry, i mean I was at work while they cleaned themselves.

Easy Off removes skin pretty well too:shock:

lmao.....:lol:

I know one thing, do not leave them in paint thinner. I did it with my 1:18's wheels. Didn't take any chrome off and softened the non plated parts to goo, broke the tabs off all but one center cap. The main wheel was salvageable at least.

http://home.insightbb.com/~scainkiwi...t/wheeldye.jpg

The dye turns out pretty good, when you dye them the 4 legs of the wheel WILL deform...

Easy fix, after you dye them and rinse them, put both wheel halves back together, get the pot you boiled the wheels in and reboil them for like 20mins or so.

Let them cool, and presto, perfect aligning wheels for reassembly.

Any idea why dyeing makes them dEfOrM?:-P

Because of the boiling process...

I also noticed that if you stretch the front bead onto the front half of the wheel to seat it up before you screw the two halves together you end up with less stripped holes while trying to tighten the halves together, even going around in a circle or x...Just like doing PITA 1:1 beadlocks :roll: