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Thread: LOTS PICS, Shock test, Narrow Wheel Test, Tire Pattern Test, LOTS inside

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Old 12-28-2005, 12:03 PM   #1
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Default LOTS PICS, Shock test, Narrow Wheel Test, Tire Pattern Test, LOTS inside

*** ALL "POSES" DRIVEN INTO, NO PLACEMENT***

Most of these pictures are self explanitory.

Where to start

Specs

-2005 Nylint TJ
-Stock Electrics
-Factory Tires
-Factory Body
-Not early chassis, not upgrade chassis, middle one (yes a friend has an OLD v1 chassis and his axles have different guts)
-Modified steering (bolt through knuckle) Still working flawlessly, left turns weaker than right turns still though
-Modified drive belts (sanded and solvent cleaned) No slippage after this, the motors actual start to twist the body to a stand up suspension extended pose and the motors start groaning deeply, i let off for fear something will break
-Grooved (heavily) tires
-Narrowed (2) wheels
-BB's ~3000f/1000r
-Trimmed body
-Captured coils, shortend shafts and shock bodies, stretched and modd'd coils
-Rear axle moved back one hole on link mount
-Skids removed

On with the pictures

*** ALL "POSES" DRIVEN INTO, NO PLACEMENT***

Gay flex shot




BB's, and modified captured coils, do they help stability, i don't know you tell me




DO NOT CUT YOUR TIRE'S LIKE THIS, This is the only one like this (thats why all 4 tires are slightly different, this is the experiment set)




THIS TREAD DESIGN AND NARROWED WHEEL BITE LIKE CRAZY

This is how my complete set of tires will be done next
And I will NOT bother trying to DYE the next set of wheels, the color doesn't penetrate this plastic as well so my beadlock bolt's are already back to bare plastic. I will however soak them in Purple Power again to strip them before shooting them with Satin Black Fusion Paint (just because i've still got a whole can). It scratches off the plastic just as easy as the blue rusto metallic on the body so just buy whatever color you like. The stone fusion on the seats isn't chipping off through



Narrowing the wheel seemed to indeed increase the overall height slightly, adversly it seemed to slightly stiffen the sidewall, but to the point it actually worked better instead of rolling over itsellf like the LF seems to always do now.



Still stabile as heck on the sidehills
Do the extra work to tweak your suspension, not just throw it in the middle for ramp numbers




My rockers caused me alot of grief here, I solved that in later photos.



Remember I have the shocks in the stock location but still have all the pivot trimming goodies


I need to get a driver and/or co-pilot so these scenes would look even more fantastic.


BODY TRIMMING

Just like with my 1:1 (toyota that is) sheetmetal does nothing but get in my dam* way 90% of the time



Turns out the gray portion under the grill was actually hitting my front axle (not moved forward) under full stuff. See the scrapes on the top of the front "cover"?




That's much better!

Last edited by Mutt; 12-28-2005 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:15 PM   #2
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Sweet write up... keep it comin.
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Old 12-28-2005, 01:15 PM   #3
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Glad to see the captured coils work well, I planned on doing that when I got back up to school. Gonna have to toss in my BBs as well.
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Old 12-28-2005, 01:15 PM   #4
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Good mods!

You should really try trimming the belly a bit. It help reduce the high center issue dramatically.
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Old 12-28-2005, 01:42 PM   #5
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I plan to trim the belly flush with the blue arms and go with different batteries or try to move this one more towards the front where the "engine" on a real 1:1 is for bettery climbing.

Trim and gut the rear axle of the HIGH/LOW crap and wire the sensors from the rear axle to the board connections for the front, so that as the front axle moves from HIGH/LOW it thinks the rear is doing the same and I'll unsolder and remove the rear actuator motor and move the drive motor above the axle.

As for the front, i'm betting that big honking steering box/planetary can be moved around in the housing to be placed on top of the axle or at least up a bit. We'll see, I'm just trying to do tiny mods one at a time to see what works and what doesn't.

I'll be adding aluminum skin to the bottom of the axles and belly for temp to help slide around for now...As it is, if I get one of those front tires hooked on something it will DRAG the belly and rear axle (even high centered) forward.
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Old 12-28-2005, 02:21 PM   #6
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Can we get some side by side shots of those tires.
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Old 12-28-2005, 02:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutt
Trim and gut the rear axle of the HIGH/LOW crap and wire the sensors from the rear axle to the board connections for the front, so that as the front axle moves from HIGH/LOW it thinks the rear is doing the same and I'll unsolder and remove the rear actuator motor and move the drive motor above the axle.
Could elaborate a little more on this? Im guessing for front burns?
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:05 PM   #8
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Man I like the way those look. Nice work, did you use CA glue?
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColquittCustom405
Man I like the way those look. Nice work, did you use CA glue?
CA glue for what??? The tires? Nope i just mod'd the tread and narrowed extra crap off the wheel.
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedXT
Could elaborate a little more on this? Im guessing for front burns?
No it was my understanding when you shift from HI/Lo vise versa that the board looks for a signal from one of two small switches in your axle, if this signal isn't received you get a surging problem.

So i figured you could wire the rear axles sensor wires up to the front axle sensor inputs on the board so as far as the board knew an axle WAS hooked up still.

This would allow removal of everything in the rear axle but the drive motor and kick the drive motor up to the top of the housing instead of the rear and cut that rear hump off the back of the axle as well.
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