2 link nylint (big pics)

[txjeeper]

This is what I have done in the first day of building:

I set this jeep up with a 2 link suspension. I wanted to get rid of all of the bulky blue parts for a more scale look, and extend the wheelbase. I also lowered the body (cut springs) for more realism. For the suspension,I used some 4-40 threaded rod and cut them to size, and then mated the cut rod to some traxxas rod ends with ball joints on one end. I threaded the other ends of the links into the holes opposite the shock mounts on the axle. It isnt a massive flexer, but the suspension is SOLID. no axle wrap whatsoever. I bent the rear links to rotate the rear axle upwards and was able to get the bulky part of the axle out of the way without having to flip the axle around. This thing is a blast to wheel.

Future modifications include:
proportional electronics
tummy tuck
li-po battery
upgraded motors
upgraded shocks

Stay Tuned!

A LITTLE VIDEO: http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=71061

PICS:

[jesserc4]

looks awsome what kind of links are those

[jesserc4]

ohh ok there traxxas didnt read what you said at first

[nylintcrawler13]

that is one of the cleanest nylints i have seen. it looks like it could have come stock with the 2 link setup

[twisted]

what keeps the axles from moving lft to right and right to left ?

[txjeeper]

guys, thanks for the compliments. Twisted, the links are threaded into the shock holes on the axles, keeping them mounted solid. The traxxas rod ends let the links swivel, but do not allow the axle to move side-to-side because there is no front-to-rear play in the links.

Later:grin:

[Collapse_The_Masses]

That's a good idear, I've been trying to find a way to get rid of the bulky blue control arms without doing the "sharpie" or "bic" tricks.

[customxprone1]

great idea using those links, lot less clutter than then sharpie trick(i did it, works great, but your set up is wayyy cleaner).

[WFlaw45]

that looks great! time for a tummy tuck tho

[CHEVY_454]

looks great. i might have do that.

[txjeeper]

Ill have to agree that its DEFINATELY time for a tummy tuck. It will look a heck of a lot better when I do that.

[twisted]

do the swivles allow for enough flex ?

[hotchi]

ok, i did a same sort of thing

but i just replaced the blue things with links
the axle was all crapy and pivoted and stuff.

and u get me some pics with out rear wheels and stuff? thanks

[txjeeper]

the definition of enough flex will vary considering one's personal preference. The last nylint I built had TONS of flex, but the suspension was very soggy and had quite a bit of axle wrap. with this setup, the wheeling is much more realistic.


As for todays developments, I decided to paint the cage black, and i added some stick-on pine car weights to the front of the truck to get some weight on the front tires while climbing. Im going for more "scale" look and performance from this nylint, so the weights hide well. This jeep doesnt f flex as much as my last, but It listens to controls much better, and the wheeling is a lot more fun! to be honest, I think this thing gets plenty of flex.

Some pics: (midway through cage painting process)




the weights:









here are a few close-ups of the links....I hope this helps! If you guys have any more questions dont hesitate to ask!




THE STEPS IN THIS 2 LINK SETUP:

Buy some traxxas rod ends PART# 2742 -your local hobby shop should have them.

Buy a 12" piece of 4-40 full threaded rod-Your LHS should also have these.

Have a bit of super glue handy


1. Decide how long you want your links. Dont forget to add the length of the rod threaded into the rod ends and into the axle.

2.Cut your lengths of the rod, and attach your Traxxas rod ends.

3. Insert the other ends of the links into the axle shock mount holes on the opposite side of the shocks. I used a dab of super glue on the end of the rods to keep them in place. the way i did it, I was able to bend the rear links to rotate the axle's front out of the way of rocks. If you wanted, you could thread the rod all the way through the shock mount, and attach the shocks onto the rod, and cap that end with two hex nuts. you would get GOBS AND GOBS of flex that way

4. Attach the rod ends to the stock link mount holes.

5. CRAWL and enjoy a clean, simply suspended rig

later,
Rich

[dzulmon]

Great Setup!
Please explain how by running the rod thru the hole and attaching the
shocks to that is going to allow to flex more.
I just can't picture how that is better than what you have now.
Maybe I'm missing something?????

[txjeeper]

I just assumed letting the rod swivel in the shock mount hole would allow more travel. I havent tried it, however, because Im more than happy with the current setup.

Thanks for the compliments,
Rich

[hawaiiankrawler]

eh boss thats the best way i set mai truck up thanks for the mod

[SlammedMini469]

if you drilled through the shock mounts so that the rod could move in it easily, and put a nut on each side, it would flex a lot more...well, thats what you explained i think, but someone didn't understand!

also, if anyone does like i said, you might consider putting some JB Weld or something on the section of link that would be inside the drilled out piece, the threads would probably eat away at them over time, so filling the threads in with JB Weld would help it move freely and not wear as bad.

[txjeeper]

thats what i said. You would probably get a ton of flex if the link went all the way through the shock mount. You could make the link go through the shock's eye, and then cap it off with two hex nuts. all this without that evil axle wrap that comes with most other flexy setups. if someone does it that way, post some pics!

[SlammedMini469]

if i get a 1:18 (cant find either, so whichever i find first, im buying!) i will do it.