How to, wheel adapters, pin upgrade, beef'd tie rods

[Mutt]

How to's

Make new hd tie-rod

Make YOUR OWN 23mm wheel adapters, the idea is so simple it will make your head spin and go, wtf didn't i think of that.



Working on a DIY axle pin upgrade right now, off to the rural king.

I'll be updated the tie rod deal tonight, wheels probably next wednesday when they get it, going with losi lst mt's and some good ole cheapo velocities because around here i don't know if i'll like the moabs.

[RANOVRU]

VERY interested in the wheel adapters.

So exactly what wheels would this allow you to use??

I've had the hardest time getting to look at or find out anything about any aftermarket wheels...

[Mutt]

Not only is the way I am designing the wheel adapters inexpensive, but it COULD be done by the simple DIY guy with some simple hand tools and a drill if needed (for the 23mm version)

I am going with 23mm because i think i can adjust my width easier w/the spacer and for the greatest strenght.

The way my method will work it could be done with ANY size hex.

You'll just have to wait till i get my new tires and wheels in to see, for now, would you like a tie-rod teaser?

I will try to include as much price and part number info as possible for everyone.



You still want to see it huh?




Just a 2 minute mock up, alot of finish work to be done.

Cover is off the axle because i'm making new drive pins for the hubs AND shafts as well, that will be covered too. I want some beef going on baby!

[RANOVRU]

Yea, I thought about doing something simular with the tierod. It looks like you've got the right idea ;)


So do virtually ALL RC trucks use "hex" style wheels?? If so, then it's just a matter of getting the right size hex, correct?

If not, what type of wheels use hex style mounting??


Stop farting around and show us what you're doing...I wanna see

[Mutt]

I'd love to, but have to finish eating and go to work, i'll probably finish the tierod tommorow.

As far as the wheel adapters, won't be until next week when the wheels arrive so i can make exact measures and finish picking up supplies

But most rc TRUCK wheels use hexes yes, 12, 14, 23 are the numbers i seen thrown around in the tires/wheels sections here.

[Mutt]

Tie Rod done, Axle pin upgrades 1/2 done, back to the garage pictures should be up before the end of the night! Beef baby, beef

[SlammedMini469]

cant wait for the how to's!

not sure i want to do any wheel/tire upgrades, but some steering upgrades would be nice!

definately looking forward to the axle pin upgrades.

[Mutt]

Sorry i'm not done with EVERYTHING, finishing a severe tummy tuck, just finished hacking the rear axle and moving the motor up.

The tech and part #'s will come soon, but i'm just keeping you nibbling

The tie rod is finish, the drive pins are finished, i have to clearance the front housing for the tierod to get full swing out of the knuckles.

For now some pictures, gonna grab a nap before work.



Stock tie rod on top, custom brakeline heim in middle (it is the same lenght, the picture made it look longer for some reason), rc suspension link used



Stock knuckle drive pin on left, tension pin used, modified and installed (had to clearance where the pin goes into the outer knuckle slightly because mine was egg shaped so badly from the stock pin flopping around.



Rear axle drive pin, stock on bottom, upgrade installed. My front and rear axles have NO slop in them now, grab both of your rear tires and turn them opposite directions, you'll see what i mean. The inside of most of my drive parts were worn from these sloppy factory pins, the new pins make everything a slightly tap/press fit.

[skerb]

i think there is a reason there is play like that in the axles...it allows you to turn when on solid ground...your left and right side tires are going to turn at different speeds around a corner and this allows for that...

[run2jeepn]

I agree with skerb on this one. It may work better for a short time, but taking all the play out will just cause more stress. Keep your eye on things and keep us updated on how it works.

[Brian, aka XJFanatic.com]

yeah they do that its like a soft spool, alot of zuk's in real life do something similar when welding the diff.

I'll tell you right now with no play in my rear axle of the 1:1 jeep from being spooled its hard on it, granted i havent snapped anything but my susp binds like crazy in a turn

[Mutt]

Uh, the reason for the slop is because its cheaper to make parts that are "close" instead of dead on, and easier to assemble because by building in slop, other parts that are inconsistant won't bother final assembly. If you build in "slop" you allow for manufacturing variances when you outsource products.

What you said makes also makes no sense because once you apply power to the axles the pin is pushed against part of the "hub" so as long as there is pressure from the motor the rear axle is basically spooled anyway, these things don't have diffs

On another note, if you pavement pounders actually hit the dirt and rocks then the tires would slip, or be off the ground and this always allows drivetrain stress relief, as well as my sidewalls being softer which absorbs twist as well.

The slop would be understandable if it had a detroit in it front/rear.

Have you people actually taken the axles apart? Most of the slop comes from the plastic coupler that join the high/low planetary to the actual axle, it lets the axle rock back and forth about 1/16" and this increases as it is used and wears.

[Mutt]

Originally Posted by Brian, aka XJFanatic.com

yeah they do that its like a soft spool, alot of zuk's in real life do something similar when welding the diff.

I'll tell you right now with no play in my rear axle of the 1:1 jeep from being spooled its hard on it, granted i havent snapped anything but my susp binds like crazy in a turn

1:1 diffs are a different topic all together. By creating a soft spool it relieves the constant stress on the splines and keeps you from twisting them and finally twisting the shafts before they will rebound on their own.

Once you take a turn in a "soft" spooled rig, after less than a 1/4 rev of the tire its a full spool again, the spiders only rock slightly. If you have too much driveline bind on the pavement boost up your tire psi or run an automatic or selectable locker.

I run v6 detroits f/r in my toy and with the 39.5's only runnin 3psi the only bind i see is the form of sidewall wrinkles.

Whatever decides to break after these upgrades will just get jbwelded back together. Then again i still run STOCK drive belts and that is where it boils down to being my "hub fuse". When its too much of a bind, it slips, I didn't replace it with o-rings, because you get to a point where it will strip the splines on the pulley, the 4 bearings in the high-low sleeve, 4 bearings in the actual high/low planetary, or your plastic spline output that leads to the drive coupler.