RCCrawler Forums

magoo117 · 01-14-2006, 11:51 AM

This maybe a stupid question but...what do these couplings do?both of mine are cracked and I really dont see what they do.I have no front wheel drive on mine.I called Nylint and they said there is 6-8 week wait for parts.I really cant wait that long!!!

zach3713 · 01-14-2006, 12:19 PM

It's basically just to reinforce what you have I think...so if it's broken...you better try and find someone who's willing to sell you the hubs...

Chuki · 01-14-2006, 09:00 PM

I found the post on plastic couplings I think we may be thinking of diffrent things.

Here's a pic of what broke on mine.

Mine still works but if I turn sharp one way it tires to pop out, and I'm also afraid I'm just going to finish it off, and then I'll be stuck with 3 wheel drive.

Although the coupling on my passenger side, the translucent one is cracked but still holding up.

magoo117 · 01-14-2006, 09:10 PM

the couplings I'm talking about are covered in this thread plastic couplings It seems that all they do is hold the drive pins in place.I found out that I broke the drive pin that powers the front axle.I just got done fixing it and will test it out tomorrow.

boomhauer · 01-14-2006, 09:13 PM

Replace the plastic coupling if it looks stressed/cracked if you dot the axle shaft will break I broke the axle before I found out hoew to beef it up see my post on the "couplings" they reallt are not traditional couplings but there to reienforce the axle shaft where the pin goes through tough to explain so i'll post some pics. I took out the coupling all together Zach just to let ya know I saw your post on page two saying it looks like I put it over the plastic. I slipped 3'16" arrow shaft over the axle and used a steel washer 3/16th inside diameter to add exrta strength

bill

Chuki · 01-14-2006, 09:31 PM

anyone have any suggestions how I maybe able to repair the peice I broke? Considering having the older chassis seems like I would have broke something else not this.

zach3713 · 01-15-2006, 03:06 AM

Oh, ok...I see what you broke now...i don't have a clue how you'd fix that though..but I do think it's werid you broke that ano not sometihng else first.

gregman_1 · 01-15-2006, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuki

anyone have any suggestions how I maybe able to repair the peice I broke? Considering having the older chassis seems like I would have broke something else not this.

I broke the same part. I exchanged my Jeep at Walmart. I ended up with another gen 2 chassis (the gen 3s are fixed so this doesn't happen) and haven't had a problem since. I really don't see a feasible way to fix or replace that receiver coupling.

GreenCJ · 01-15-2006, 01:37 PM

I was looking at mine since it has a chip out of it but not completely broke yet. Im thinking of making a steel sleeve to slide over it with two maching slits as a reinforcement like I did on my steering knuckles. I'll post up if it works.

GreenCJ · 01-16-2006, 03:00 PM

Ok I made a sleeve w/2 slots on each side, pressed it over the cv cup and worked perfect. Its more than twice a thick as just the stock cup. Hopfully this will reduce the breakage there. I also made steel sleeves to go over the "ball joint" area of the gray knuckle, kinda like the guy that did the brass presure fitting. This also seems to have worked well also. Hope this can help someone.
My .02

Chuki · 01-16-2006, 04:25 PM

Pics Please Pics Please!!!!!!!

boomhauer · 01-16-2006, 04:50 PM

Ok great idea lets see some pics

GreenCJ · 01-16-2006, 05:13 PM

Im kinda stupid on how to post pics, please enlighten me.

magoo117 · 01-16-2006, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregman_1

I broke the same part. I exchanged my Jeep at Walmart. I ended up with another gen 2 chassis (the gen 3s are fixed so this doesn't happen) and haven't had a problem since. I really don't see a feasible way to fix or replace that receiver coupling.

Is there a way to tell Gen 2 from Gen 3 before I buy another one?

Chuki · 01-16-2006, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by magoo117

Is there a way to tell Gen 2 from Gen 3 before I buy another one?

Just look at the bottom mount of the shocks... If they're held on by screws its the Gen 3 or upgraded chassis, if its a rivet its a gen 2 or gen 1 older chassis.

Chuki · 01-16-2006, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreenCJ

Im kinda stupid on how to post pics, please enlighten me.

use www.imageshack.us

and the rest from there is pretty self explanitory.

GreenCJ · 01-16-2006, 07:56 PM

Thanx I'll try and get some pics.

GreenCJ · 01-16-2006, 09:16 PM

Hope this works.

Chuki · 01-16-2006, 09:26 PM

now you have to tell us how you made them.

GreenCJ · 01-16-2006, 09:42 PM

Drilled out some bar stock 15/32 bit and turned the outside to fit, don't remember what the od was. Cut the slots with a dremel cutoff wheel, hammer to fit

You could probably use some tube that fits the od and just drill it out, just used what I had laying around. Had to clearance the back of the slot, because it was rubbing close to full lock. Used a pointy (offical term) dremel bit, much easier to do before you put them on

01-14-2006, 09:13 PM	#45
boomhauer Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: my house Posts: 31	Replace the plastic coupling if it looks stressed/cracked if you dot the axle shaft will break I broke the axle before I found out hoew to beef it up see my post on the "couplings" they reallt are not traditional couplings but there to reienforce the axle shaft where the pin goes through tough to explain so i'll post some pics. I took out the coupling all together Zach just to let ya know I saw your post on page two saying it looks like I put it over the plastic. I slipped 3'16" arrow shaft over the axle and used a steel washer 3/16th inside diameter to add exrta strength bill Attached Images Last edited by boomhauer; 01-14-2006 at 09:18 PM.

01-14-2006, 11:51 AM	#41
magoo117 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wall Posts: 5	This maybe a stupid question but...what do these couplings do?both of mine are cracked and I really dont see what they do.I have no front wheel drive on mine.I called Nylint and they said there is 6-8 week wait for parts.I really cant wait that long!!!

01-14-2006, 12:19 PM	#42
zach3713 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Auburn Posts: 169	It's basically just to reinforce what you have I think...so if it's broken...you better try and find someone who's willing to sell you the hubs...

01-14-2006, 09:00 PM	#43
Chuki Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: PNW Posts: 212	I found the post on plastic couplings I think we may be thinking of diffrent things. Here's a pic of what broke on mine. Mine still works but if I turn sharp one way it tires to pop out, and I'm also afraid I'm just going to finish it off, and then I'll be stuck with 3 wheel drive. Although the coupling on my passenger side, the translucent one is cracked but still holding up.

01-14-2006, 09:10 PM	#44
magoo117 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wall Posts: 5	the couplings I'm talking about are covered in this thread plastic couplings It seems that all they do is hold the drive pins in place.I found out that I broke the drive pin that powers the front axle.I just got done fixing it and will test it out tomorrow.

01-14-2006, 09:31 PM	#46
Chuki Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: PNW Posts: 212	anyone have any suggestions how I maybe able to repair the peice I broke? Considering having the older chassis seems like I would have broke something else not this.

01-15-2006, 03:06 AM	#47
zach3713 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Auburn Posts: 169	Oh, ok...I see what you broke now...i don't have a clue how you'd fix that though..but I do think it's werid you broke that ano not sometihng else first.

01-15-2006, 01:37 PM	#49
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	I was looking at mine since it has a chip out of it but not completely broke yet. Im thinking of making a steel sleeve to slide over it with two maching slits as a reinforcement like I did on my steering knuckles. I'll post up if it works.

01-16-2006, 03:00 PM	#50
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	Ok I made a sleeve w/2 slots on each side, pressed it over the cv cup and worked perfect. Its more than twice a thick as just the stock cup. Hopfully this will reduce the breakage there. I also made steel sleeves to go over the "ball joint" area of the gray knuckle, kinda like the guy that did the brass presure fitting. This also seems to have worked well also. Hope this can help someone. My .02

01-16-2006, 04:25 PM	#51
Chuki Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: PNW Posts: 212	Pics Please Pics Please!!!!!!!

01-16-2006, 04:50 PM	#52
boomhauer Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: my house Posts: 31	Ok great idea lets see some pics

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01-16-2006, 05:13 PM	#53
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	Im kinda stupid on how to post pics, please enlighten me.

01-16-2006, 07:56 PM	#57
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	Thanx I'll try and get some pics.

01-16-2006, 09:16 PM	#58
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	Hope this works.

01-16-2006, 09:26 PM	#59
Chuki Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: PNW Posts: 212	now you have to tell us how you made them.

01-16-2006, 09:42 PM	#60
GreenCJ Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Sintrul Poynt Posts: 28	Drilled out some bar stock 15/32 bit and turned the outside to fit, don't remember what the od was. Cut the slots with a dremel cutoff wheel, hammer to fit You could probably use some tube that fits the od and just drill it out, just used what I had laying around. Had to clearance the back of the slot, because it was rubbing close to full lock. Used a pointy (offical term) dremel bit, much easier to do before you put them on

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