Slipping Drivebelts? Here's a fix!
 

Hello all you Nylints :flipoff:

I took the time to take apart my 1:6th because the front axle wasn't pulling as much as it was slipping. I did the whole sand the pullies trick and it works ok.

My suggestion is to do what I did. Get a hot glue gun. Put 3 dots on the brass pulley on the motor as far down in the groove of it as you can. Once that glue has dried take a knife or xacto blade and trim any glue that is on the upper walls of the brass pulley. Reassemble and give it a shot. I just took mine out in my backyard obstacle course and was pleasently surprised. That glue bonded really well with the brass for some reason and I can bet that the extra surface area that the glue made on the pully actually tightened up the belt as well. It doesn't have to be an ultra awesome job. Once you have the glue on there, assemble everything except for the diff cover and see if the belt pops off from using too much glue - trim as needed.

I can see by reading around here that people are chopping the drivebelt a few mm's and then CA'ing it back together. Seems like a weak point to me, and if you have had success with it then that's awesome. I personally wont chop my belt because CA has never worked for me. If i can round up some batteries I'll get my digi out and take pics of what I did, but I don't think you need pics to understand how to get glue on the inner groove of the brass pulley. I didn't put it on the axle pulley because there isn't as tall of a groove there and I'd hate to have to pull the cover all the time because the belt comes off...

Anyway, I thought I'd give my .02 on what I did to help a problem people seem to have.

My belt started to slip after the 2nd charge on the battery. It would still pull (unlike if your pin or that plastic collar breaks) pretty decent, but when trying to pull itself up and over an obstacle the rears would grip push but the front would just slip slip slip.

Good luck!

Kinda interested in seeing the pics.

pics please....

well, yes, you are making the pulley bigger, but you also change the gear ratio by doing so.....so you will lose a little torque......

Maybe that will make it a tad faster for them loose gravel hill climbs :mrgreen:

The change in the gear ratio is so miniscule that it doesn't bind at all when moving under it's own power. Busted my rear drivepin again (go figure) and was able to TOW my roommates around the yard in FWD. To me, that's a testament to the modification that was performed on the frontend. The glue is non-abrasive so it's not gonna wear out the belt either. Win-win situation to me.

When I break the frontend, I'll tear it down and take pics of the glue. It's just a very thin layer that I trimmed with a knife so it wasn't on the sides of the pulley.

So I take it you didnt do the rear end too?

for some reason my rearend doesnt slip. Just busts drivepins. Course that's a heavily modified rearend that I cannot disclose information on yet :D

please? :lol:

Sorry, my roommate constructed it and I can't put informaiton up without his permission.

lol Ask your roomie... I wanna know too...

Ok, here's the roommates answer to posting pics:

*This is for non-profit. Just a service to the Nylint community*


We can perform the neccessary rebuild on the rearend to spec. Total cost would include material used and of course gratuities are accepted for the service performed plus shipping. Shoot me a PM if you're interested in getting that rearend fixed up. Serious inquiries will have to get my personal email addy. Through that email I can hook you up with pics of the mod that will be performed on your rig. It would be nice to have a pic of the rearend in question before we can assume that it can be fabbed into a bullitproof design. 100% of the drivepin flange can be missing and can still be built strong as hell.


*This mod will void your warranty on your toy*

So far I have beat the hell out of the rearend and there isnt so much as a scratch on the part that was fabbed up. This is mainly because of how the drivepin is shearing in 3 different places. I believe we're going to be fabbing a new Axle shaft that is larger in circumference so that we can install a larger diameter drivepin. This should completely eliminate the drivepin failure and further bulletproof the rearend. There are other mods in progress from LED light kits to skidplates. These are all handmade parts so the process can take up to 2 weeks to create parts that meet our standards.

your post will get edited by a mod because you dont have a vendors star.

I hope this doesn't get deleted or edited, because we're not trying to make a profit, just perform a service to the Nylint community.

Here's links to the pics.


http://www.thesopclan.com/images/Mainshaft.JPG
http://www.thesopclan.com/images/Mainshaft.JPG
http://www.thesopclan.com/images/ShaftnPA.JPG
http://www.thesopclan.com/images/ShaftnPA.JPG
http://www.thesopclan.com/images/PlanataryAssem.JPG
http://www.thesopclan.com/images/PlanataryAssem.JPG

Interesting...