Looking for constructive criticism!!!! (Flame away)

[nathand]

I put together a Mayhem Engineering LS2.0 chassis, I am looking for any tips or advice before I get all the electronics put on. Thanks

[Jeepkid]

I think it looks good. I'd put the electronics on the front upper links. What do you have for a Rx, esc, and battery?
Edit: Like the ghost servo.HAHA

[crawlinghulls]

To really nit pick - you could raise the rear axle's pinion angle by adding a little length to the rear upper links (or shorten the rear lowers - depending on your current wheelbase).

[killswitch]

Originally Posted by crawlinghulls

To really nit pick - you could raise the rear axle's pinion angle by adding a little length to the rear upper links (or shorten the rear lowers - depending on your current wheelbase).

Agreed, the driveshaft angle is a bit steep. Also, dont forget to put the small post under the servo side on your axle plate... I've bent a plate trying to run it that way with the servo offset to one side.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by crawlinghulls

To really nit pick - you could raise the rear axle's pinion angle by adding a little length to the rear upper links (or shorten the rear lowers - depending on your current wheelbase).

Or, shim up the motor on the end away from the motor pinion gear, this will reduce loads through the shaft (meaning less energy loss, smoother running as well as less chance of breaking the shaft/joints).

[alexchen86]

X2 on lengthening your rear uppers to straighten your pinion angle.

On your rear 4 link is there a reason behind why one of the uppers is bolted underneath the plate and one is above? Are you getting binding somewhere during articulation in the rear from the upper link that is bolted underneath?

Also another tip is to swap your shafts in the other direction for the front and rear axles. Put the male side on the bottom and the female side coming off the output shaft of the tranny. I have found this works a lot better since those female MIP shafts are much fatter than the male end.

I do this for Junfac shafts as well. There will be clearance between your spur so that's nothing to worry about. After several comps you will see where you scrape the most of the shafts which is why I have reversed mine.

Oh and sipe your Rovers!

[nathand]

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

I think it looks good. I'd put the electronics on the front upper links. What do you have for a Rx, esc, and battery?
Edit: Like the ghost servo.HAHA

I am running stock electronics, with a savox 252 servo, and a pro-match 5000mha split pack half on the front axle and half on the front upper links.

This is kinda what it looked like before.

Originally Posted by crawlinghulls

To really nit pick - you could raise the rear axle's pinion angle by adding a little length to the rear upper links (or shorten the rear lowers - depending on your current wheelbase).

I added more spacers to the upper links

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Or, shim up the motor on the end away from the motor pinion gear, this will reduce loads through the shaft (meaning less energy loss, smoother running as well as less chance of breaking the shaft/joints).

Im not quite sure what you mean. Do you mean to tilt the whole motor and tranny down toward the rear axle?

Originally Posted by alexchen86

X2 on lengthening your rear uppers to straighten your pinion angle.

On your rear 4 link is there a reason behind why one of the uppers is bolted underneath the plate and one is above? Are you getting binding somewhere during articulation in the rear from the upper link that is bolted underneath?

Also another tip is to swap your shafts in the other direction for the front and rear axles. Put the male side on the bottom and the female side coming off the output shaft of the tranny. I have found this works a lot better since those female MIP shafts are much fatter than the male end.

Oh and sipe your Rovers!

The links on the rear 4 link to to help with torque twist. The upper link just barely touches the lower at full articulation. The shafts are the same size right near the spur gear, switched it around and had the same clearance.

[yoda316]

move ur front upper links on the axle side to underneath the battery plate and move it down a hole on the chassis.
that looks like it will make ur front links parallel to each other and provide a lower mounting place if you are going to link mount your electronics.

Also mount the one link in the rear back to normal. I know it is supposed to help with torque twist a little, but honestly with the chassis link geometry (which is great) you probably wont have any twist anyways and it will just make your suspension stiffer feeling on that side and less consistent. and try them mounted one hole lower on the chassis for the rears.

Like others have said raise your rear pinion up to as close as you can to being even with your bent links.
and in the front try to move ur upper like i said at the beginning of my post and see if it also has the benefit of shorting them a little to make ur pinion on the front not as steep (maybe close to parallel with the ground)
that will angle your steering back slightly which will be beneficial for lots of reasons , one of which will be the ability to steer better as you first start up a rock face.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by nathand

Im not quite sure what you mean. Do you mean to tilt the whole motor and tranny down toward the rear axle?

Exactly, it will steepen the driveshaft angle on one end, but make it less steep on the other end.
This is an alternative to changing link lengths to "clock" your axle a bit which also changes the angles through the driveshaft joints.

Multiple ways to do the same thing, my suggestion does not mess with suspension geometry.

[nathand]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Exactly, it will steepen the driveshaft angle on one end, but make it less steep on the other end.
This is an alternative to changing link lengths to "clock" your axle a bit which also changes the angles through the driveshaft joints.

Multiple ways to do the same thing, my suggestion does not mess with suspension geometry.

I just made the upper links longer.

[nathand]

Well thanks for all the help, I will post up pictures when I get all the electronics on. Man I love this site