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| | #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
| I just finishing stretching 2 - 1:18 Nylint trucks. I posted the design & blue prints for those who want a quailty design that will last! It consists of 2 parts a sleeve & a pin. They are made from aluminum & you need a lathe, number bits & letter bits. The front will require you to take the plastic cover off the motor & sevro gears. You will need to use alittle force to push the extra long pin through. It can be done with a little guidance & time without breaking anything. The sleeve pushs in from the back (meanig if you look at the truck from the side you would start from the center of the truck to the rear(s) The pin pushs in from the front (meaning if you were looking at the truck from the side you would start from the bumpers in to the rear(s). The strectch measures out at 8-1/2" & after cutting 2 to 2-1/2 coils it measures out at 8-3/4". The artic measures out at 4-3/4". If you use & like the design let me know! Enjoy! This design also stops the rears from moving back & forworth. ![]() Last edited by TwistedXT; 03-29-2006 at 09:04 AM. |
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| | #2 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
| Here's a couple of pics. Almost all the parts are dyed using rit dye. The blue roll cage comes out dark green & the gray bed cover comes out almost black. The smooth gray pieces come out like an olive green. ![]() ![]() Last edited by TwistedXT; 03-29-2006 at 09:04 AM. |
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| | #3 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: near Pittsburgh
Posts: 136
| very clean build! I like it. now test it out. |
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| | #4 |
| Predator micro motors ![]() Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: houston
Posts: 713
| Looks like a lot better way to an old idea, craftsmanship looks excellent! Unfortunately, most people on this forum can't even dream of having access to such tools, myself included. Keep up the quality work!!! |
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| | #5 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,798
| very nice....maybe an off body shot so we can see it better? |
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| | #6 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
| Thanks guys! getbent point taken but you can always do what I use to do before I bought my lathe. Take a drill & put it in a vise & place your metal in the drill then press trigger & set your lock so the drill keeps running. Now use some different files & start filing. Granted it's not as percise but it works if you take your time! Don't forget to use a mic Harbor Feight has them cheap. Hope this idea is usefu to you guys! I used it many years. Here's a closer pic Twisted. (click pic to enlarge the pic is huge) http://jupiter.walagata.com/w/thebut...structions.jpg |
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| | #7 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Mansfield
Posts: 64
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| | #8 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,798
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| | #9 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
| du4x4 that's a fine way to do it too. But I'm very picky how how things look & like to do everything that looks like it was factory made. I forgot to mention if anyone uses the drill idea the way you center punch the round stock so it's centered is take a piece of steel rod the same diameter as your working with place it in the drill & file a 45 degree point on it (drill running of coarse) then take a piece of tubing the same I.D. as the O.D. your working with & slip it over one another then put the rod you filed the point on in the tube & hit it with a hammer to center punch it. You now have a mark in the center of the rod. 2 way tape or tape a line level to the drill so you stay level when drilling your hole. Yes it's more work but it's also a nicer job! I hope the above info is useful to someone on this forum. Twisted your welcome & thank you! Here's my homepage link if anyone wants to check out other projects I did. http://thebutcher6999.tripod.com/index.htm |
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| | #10 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,798
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| | #11 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 59
| Thank you ;) |
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