|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
03-23-2011, 11:47 PM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Abbotsford BC
Posts: 522
| Don't buy links - build them!
Since I'm starting a new project I decided to see how hard (and expensive) it really is to build links for my AX10. Cost: 1 pack of Traxxas Revo link ends (soooo much better than axial ends): $8.00 2 one foot lengths of 8/32 rod: $2.50 2 feet of stainless steel tube: $3.00 total cost $13.50 for homebuilt lowers versus $40 for axial parts at the LHS. Also needed: 8/32 tap tubing cutter callipers (ideally) demmel or saw for cutting rod check out the stock axial 3mm thread compared to the 8/32 rod: You can make them any length you want, Stainless won't snag on rocks the way Aluminum does, the Revo ends use metal balls and are way tougher, and if the 8/32 threads ever pull out you probably broke the rest of your rig anyway. Tap the revo ends, measure and cut your rod to close to the length you need, adjust the length (you can unscrew the ends slightly to make the link longer or cut a bit more rod off to make them shorter), then measure the exposed rod and cut a length of tubing to sleeve it. Takes some time but it's not hard. Last edited by Mud Puppy; 03-24-2011 at 12:02 AM. |
Sponsored Links | |
03-24-2011, 12:16 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 423
|
+1 on diy links. 1/4" brake line also works great over 8/32 all thread if you can't source stainless steel or want to buy everything locally. Delrin links are just as easy with JeepinDoug's drill bushings.
|
03-24-2011, 07:30 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Utah
Posts: 1,530
|
Yup that works. This isn't really DIY but i'm sure a bunch of you old timers have those Traxxas steel links. They are the smooth silver 4mm, or longer black 4mm, can't remember part numbers. I like to chop the thread off the end, cut down the link to the proper length, and braze the thread back on. The links on my jk build are built that way. |
03-24-2011, 07:40 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Wayne county. PA
Posts: 2,507
|
i went with big dubro rod ends and solid rod that was .144" dia that threaded nice with 6-32....never had an issue yet after 2 years with the same rod ends with brass balls in them .........bob .... |
03-24-2011, 07:51 PM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned.
Posts: 2,011
|
Set of 8 Revo turn buckles and pushrods are $16 shipped on ebay and I get 4 strait links and 4 longer ones that I can bend to fit. Comes with all the rod ends and the length is good as well. JFYI. |
03-24-2011, 08:09 PM | #6 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
| Quote:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFV7&P=7 | |
03-24-2011, 08:17 PM | #7 |
MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,939
|
10-32 threaded rod and 1/4 stainless tube work well for me.
|
03-24-2011, 08:19 PM | #8 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Ohio
Posts: 496
| Quote: | |
03-24-2011, 08:25 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rancho Relaxo. California. USA. Earth.
Posts: 3,292
|
In my area delrin rod can be sourced alot cheaper than stainless tubing. Although steel links look a lil cooler hehe so I'm thinkin of trying it next time
|
03-24-2011, 10:04 PM | #10 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Utah
Posts: 1,530
| Quote: I haven't seen one of those rigs in quite some time. Must be a super cool rig | |
03-25-2011, 07:32 AM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: St. Lawrence County NY
Posts: 147
| I use Revo turnbuckles and pushrods as well but I had an extra set of Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles and rods so I used those. They are real light and extremely durable.
|
03-25-2011, 07:54 AM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: St. Lawrence County NY
Posts: 147
|
Sorry...double post.
|
03-25-2011, 08:02 AM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 918
|
i noticed nobody's mentioned my favorite way of mking links...cutting the shapes out of 1/4 delrin and just drilling ant tapping the ends
|
03-25-2011, 08:40 AM | #14 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Rock Bouncin' with the Patented Technique
Posts: 1,374
|
Thats the way I make links. Brake line, threaded rod, and rod ends. |
03-25-2011, 12:10 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Hughson, CA
Posts: 233
|
I just tried out the threaded rod and brakline method last night. I busted out steering linkage and uppers and it worked out very well. It does add a little more weight but it is down low.
|
03-25-2011, 08:57 PM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: Under Communist Occupation
Posts: 271
|
You can also get Traxxas Maxx links real cheap on eBay - best way to go IMLHO
|
03-26-2011, 12:41 AM | #17 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: SLC UT
Posts: 133
| I need to make some bent links and I keep thinking this would be the easiest way as well... but you need male threaded rod ends and I can't seem to find any for RC. Where do you get yours? Mine will be for my Losi Mini so I don't want to get to big.
|
03-26-2011, 12:49 AM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 423
| Why would you need male threaded rod ends? You could just make links using this method and then bend them or buy some aluminum tubing, bend it the tap and use long set screws to secure rod ends.. OR get some delrin rod (1/4", 5/16", 3/8"), drill and tap then heat and bend. No need for male rod ends at all.
|
03-26-2011, 12:57 AM | #19 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: SLC UT
Posts: 133
| Quote:
I'm gonna go make some tomorrow, thanks for the help! | |
03-26-2011, 01:31 AM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 423
|
If you can't find long set screws another option is to cut sections of all-thread, that's how I made my delrin links. But I do recommend set screws as they are much easier to assemble.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |