Need Longer Drag Link!

[alexchen86]

I need some help setting up my steering. My drag link I'm using is too short to run on the lowest hole of my servo horn therefore not giving full throw (currently to compensate I mounted it two holes up on the horn).

I'm using the stock drag link with Revo rod ends and a small 2mm spacer I cut off from an aluminum rod. Looks pretty ghetto lol and it's still too short.

Currrently running an STRC front 4 link plate on my AX10 setup for BTA with Axial CVDs, Jones'N tie rod, Axial clockable C's, and VP Zero Ackermans.

I guess I can use Jato rod ends since they're longer right?

[ripper7777777]

Why not just make your own?

Go to Lowes or Ace get some 6/32nd threaded rod and cut it to length. Cover with aluminum sleeve once you get it right.

[alexchen86]

Thanks for the suggestion Lance!

Well...here's the final result after switching to a shorter Axial rod end on the tie rod plus a couple of spacers. I had to inboard the shocks too to give more clearance for the tires.



Problem is the damn servo horn makes so much contact with the spring it takes it off the cup! I used some CA on the spring and the cup...but doubt that will last long.

But got the awesome steering I wanted! Any suggestions on how to fix this binding?

[TexasSP]

You could try outboarding your shocks. If that doesn't do it get some Traxxas big bores and do the shock cap mod and use mini t springs like the XR guys do.

[alexchen86]

Hmmm...I'll try out boarding them. Doh! Why didn't I think of that lol...

[alexchen86]

Damn just tried out boarding the bottom and I can't inboard the top like I wanted...

When out boarding the bottom of the shock the back of the zero ackerman knuckles contact the shock perch lol.

Think I need help setting this deal up if I can't figure it out by tonight...I'll bring it out to our GTG on Saturday!

[JeremyH]

Alex, why dont you shorten the drag link, and flip the servo over (so that the horn is closer to the center of the axle). When you reinstall the horn, center the servo, then put the horn on so it is slightly off to the drivers side.

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Alex, why dont you shorten the drag link, and flip the servo over (so that the horn is closer to the center of the axle). When you reinstall the horn, center the servo, then put the horn on so it is slightly off to the drivers side.

I messed around with a drag link for days before I realized how obvious it is.
Good call

[TexasSP]

Figures a crawler genius like Jeremy could figure it all out.

[alexchen86]

Jeremy to the rescue! Got everything working now. Just a bit hesitant on installing the dig for now.

Damn just broke the stock aluminum servo horn. Good thing I had an extra 25 spline horn from a LHS which came off a Vorza...works like a charm!






Thanks for the tip Jeremy! Got a BTA no notch servo guard on the way too.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by TexasSP

Figures a crawler genius like Jeremy could figure it all out.

Nope, I just went through the same BS when I setup the BTA on my MRC:


This picture is with the wheels pointed straight ahead. I had to position the servo horn just right to clear the spring cup and not to contact the upper link mount.

Same principle on the AX10 BTA.

[alexchen86]

Great job Jeremy! Maybe this should be on the Jones'N tie rod section for those that have run into similar issues.

I'll bring my AX10 to our GTG on Saturday. I think my tie rod is still too long I had to compensate by adjusting the horn a few splines in the other direction so it's not completely centered to get equal throw left and right.

But as she sits now I'm finally using the full advantage of my CVDs!

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by alexchen86

Thanks for the tip Jeremy! Got a BTA no notch servo guard on the way too.

You are welcome. That is exactly as I described it. And good idea on the servo guard....much better than duct tape.