XR10 Axle Shafts in SCX10 Housings?

[Tommy R]

Hey folks,

I've seen where people are making hybrid AXR10 axles, which are a wider version of the AX10 or SCX10 axle using XR10 universals. But what is involved in modifying XR10 universals to fit into a stock width SCX10 axle?

Is it just a matter of shortening the shafts and grinding a flat spot for the locker? Or are there other problems with this setup?

I'm building some SCX10 axles and would prefer not to have to buy Super 300s.

Thanks!
Tommy

[C*H*U*D]

Hey Tommy,

I have shortened XR10's in the front of my Sporty. I cut and machined new flats, but I would advise against that method. There just doesn't seem to be enough material to clamp onto even with no-slop lockers. They work, but eventually work free. I would cut in the middle, and weld them back together. You would also need XR-10 Chubs and knuckles. This will add just under .5" in width.

Here is my setup:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial...ml#post3383552

Have you thought about the RC4WD XVD's for the front? I just ran them in my SCX based scaler and was very happy with them.

[EGRESSor]

the cross-sectional area of the flat end and the round part of the shaft is nearly the same
so you may just cut the shaft , heat up the end and press it flat w. a vise

i think universal style shafts are the better ones for dust and dirt use

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

Hey Tommy,

I have shortened XR10's in the front of my Sporty. I cut and machined new flats, but I would advise against that method. There just doesn't seem to be enough material to clamp onto even with no-slop lockers. They work, but eventually work free. I would cut in the middle, and weld them back together. You would also need XR-10 Chubs and knuckles. This will add just under .5" in width.

Here is my setup:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial...ml#post3383552

Have you thought about the RC4WD XVD's for the front? I just ran them in my SCX based scaler and was very happy with them.

Hmmm....I didn't realize the XR10 C-hubs and knuckles would add 1/2" of width. That might not be too big a deal, but I'm a bit concerned about the flat not being large enough to hold tight over time. I've got a no-slop locker for it and was hoping it would be strong enough. I guess I would need to come up with a fixture to re-weld the axle shafts together straight.

So did you ream out the internal "nubs" in the C's so they would fit over the axle ends?

I'd love an off-the-shelf alternative, but I snap heavy duty pins in my CVDs all the time and I assumed the RC4WD stuff wouldn't hold up, either?

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

the cross-sectional area of the flat end and the round part of the shaft is nearly the same
so you may just cut the shaft , heat up the end and press it flat w. a vise

i think universal style shafts are the better ones for dust and dirt use

That's not a bad idea! I wonder how much heat that would take? Might be something to look into...

[EGRESSor]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

That's not a bad idea! I wonder how much heat that would take? Might be something to look into...

let it glow

[eric113]

Tommy if you need help with this let me know. I can tig weld them at work.

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

So did you ream out the internal "nubs" in the C's so they would fit over the axle ends?

I'd love an off-the-shelf alternative, but I snap heavy duty pins in my CVDs all the time and I assumed the RC4WD stuff wouldn't hold up, either?

Not the nubs, just the smaller ring on the outside of the C. The nubs actually slide onto the top and bottom boss' of the AX10 axle housing...very tight and provide good alignment.

I've always steered clear of CVD's myself (pardon the pun). I decided to try them out since the Creeper guys all have great things to say about the RC4WD XVD's for their rigs. I also couldn't go wider on my class 2 without making it illegal.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

let it glow

Originally Posted by eric113

Tommy if you need help with this let me know. I can tig weld them at work.

Thanks, Eric! I really would just need a good jig for it and I could MIG it myself, but I do appreciate the offer! I'll see if I can come up with something...

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

Not the nubs, just the smaller ring on the outside of the C. The nubs actually slide onto the top and bottom boss' of the AX10 axle housing...very tight and provide good alignment.

I've always steered clear of CVD's myself (pardon the pun). I decided to try them out since the Creeper guys all have great things to say about the RC4WD XVD's for their rigs. I also couldn't go wider on my class 2 without making it illegal.

Interesting. Well, if the body I'm using for my C2 build (New Bright JK) is wide enough I may consider the XR10 axle shaft method. Otherwise, I think I'll consider the RC4WD XVDs. Thanks again for all the helpful info!

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I cut and machined new flats, but I would advise against that method. There just doesn't seem to be enough material to clamp onto even with no-slop lockers. They work, but eventually work free. I would cut in the middle, and weld them back together.

<--------- wishes he had seen this information a week ago.
I just ordered a bunch of parts to replicate this setup, however it has become readily evident this mod is WAAAY beyond my capabilities.
At least I found this out before I started hacking away and ruining the parts.
Thanks for the input.

[eric113]

Use a piece angle with the V part down in a vise, then lay both parts in angle they will line up and be sqaure.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by eric113

Use a piece angle with the V part down in a vise, then lay both parts in angle they will line up and be sqaure.

That's the plan! I just need some small enough angle 'cause I'd like to clamp the pieces down.

[Erin]

I used the shortened setup in my sporty all last season and had no trouble at all with the small flat in the locker.

these are going in the scaler next, to many broken cvd pins for me...

[justinart24]

Hey Tommy....check out the write up I did on my local forum.

XR10 Knuckles&C-HUBS on AX10/SCX10 axles... - WARCRC

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I've always steered clear of CVD's myself (pardon the pun). I decided to try them out since the Creeper guys all have great things to say about the RC4WD XVD's for their rigs. I also couldn't go wider on my class 2 without making it illegal.

Uhh, okay, if I'm understanding this statement correctly, the XR-10 c-hubs and knuckles will add nearly 1/2", so on your class 2 you didn't go with the XR10 c-hubs and knuckles? Just the standard AX hardware? (or high-steers, whatever) So if I decide to go with those CVD's, I best not try and use the XR steering components?


My TCS order just came, and its kinda lookin' like 1/2 the order's going to have to go on WTT board. Such is life.

[ClassicGMJunkie]

my sportsman build has this explained.

[Manning]

I cut the shafts to length, then welded a bit of material on the ends, then ground the flats to fit.

[BuckImod]

If you buy a pair of long beef tubes,you don't have to cut the shafts.

[dickwart]

Originally Posted by BuckImod

If you buy a pair of long beef tubes,you don't have to cut the shafts.

X2

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by BuckImod

If you buy a pair of long beef tubes,you don't have to cut the shafts.

Of course, but then you end up with an axle that's an inch wider than stock.

[BuckImod]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Of course, but then you end up with an axle that's an inch wider than stock.

yes,but there are some benefits to that too. However being that you are doing this for a SCX10,I'm sure you need to keep the wheels under the body somewhat for scale purposes. I would just go with a different wheel offset to make up the difference. JMO