Custom links rod end ?'s and diameter ?'s.

[GTSLOW]

So I'm jumping into building my own links. So far I have:

8-32 all thread
8-32 tap
1/4 x .049 aluminum tubing
Revo rod ends 5347

So here's my questions.

1) can I use a small tubing cutter to cut the tubing?

2) is 8-32 closer to M3 or M4? I REALLY want to use the RC4WD bent rod ends for my build but they only come in plastic in M3.

2.5) do M4 plastic bent rod ends exist?

3) can I use an M3 or M4 tap on the above mentioned tubing? Reason I ask is I could eliminate the all thread and use small threaded pieces with the Allen hex on the one end.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[R2j]

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

So I'm jumping into building my own links. So far I have:

8-32 all thread
8-32 tap
1/4 x .049 aluminum tubing
Revo rod ends 5347

So here's my questions.

1) can I use a small tubing cutter to cut the tubing? Yes

2) is 8-32 closer to M3 or M4? I REALLY want to use the RC4WD bent rod ends for my build but they only come in plastic in M3. 4mm

2.5) do M4 plastic bent rod ends exist? Maybe, I think I have seen some before, but will have to ponder on it a bit.

3) can I use an M3 or M4 tap on the above mentioned tubing? Reason I ask is I could eliminate the all thread and use small threaded pieces with the Allen hex on the one end. That will depend on you wall thickness of your tube.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hope that helps some, I also produce link sets in solid stainless steel rod with Revo ends for most configuration and custom lengths.

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by R2j

Hope that helps some, I also produce link sets in solid stainless steel rod with Revo ends for most configuration and custom lengths.

Absolutely does! The aluminum is .25 OD with a wall thickness if .049. Now I'm really wondering if I can use the M4 tap on that. I'd love custom stainless links however I'm not sure what the WB is gonna be just yet. I'm still waiting on the AR60s to arrive.

[Capwn]

I might be the odd man here, But I've gotten to a point where I don't tap my tubing anymore, But just get tubing JUST big enough to sleeve 8/32" all thread..
I then get 6" pieces of the 8/32" all thread from Ace, Cut to size, And I'm off the the races.. I like this especially because when the tube gets worn out, I can just resleeve the allthread and swap out the link ends if needed.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Capwn

I might be the odd man here, But I've gotten to a point where I don't tap my tubing anymore, But just get tubing JUST big enough to sleeve 8/32" all thread..
I then get 6" pieces of the 8/32" all thread from Ace, Cut to size, And I'm off the the races.. I like this especially because when the tube gets worn out, I can just resleeve the allthread and swap out the link ends if needed.

And you have the strength of the all thread to back the thin wall tube.


I've had fantastic luck with aluminum revo suspension push rods. They use 4mm ends (revo, jato etc), they come in several lengths, can be cut down and tapped since they're hollow and they're cheap!

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by Capwn

I might be the odd man here, But I've gotten to a point where I don't tap my tubing anymore, But just get tubing JUST big enough to sleeve 8/32" all thread..
I then get 6" pieces of the 8/32" all thread from Ace, Cut to size, And I'm off the the races.. I like this especially because when the tube gets worn out, I can just resleeve the allthread and swap out the link ends if needed.

I was actually planning on just tap the ends of the aluminum tubing and using small 3/4" lengths of all threads on the ends to attach the rod ends.

[84yoda]

RC4WD has aluminum bent M3/M4 rod ends. Axial has plastic bent M3/M4. The M4 is AX31186.

[altd896]

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

Absolutely does! The aluminum is .25 OD with a wall thickness if .049. Now I'm really wondering if I can use the M4 tap on that.

You could but it's not going to be very strong,
.25-.049-.049 =0.152" id on the tube, that's 3.86mm
Normal tapping drill for m4 would be 3.5mm

[GTSLOW]

Ok so the price of the AX M4 bent link ends it out of control. It would cost me $12 for the four bent ends from each kit which only covers two links..... Could anyone tell me what size tubing I would need to use these M3 bent rod ends?

M3 Plastic Bent Rod Ends w/ Axial Width Balls (20x)

So from what I've been able to find. To use M3 threaded inserts. I would need 5mm tubing with a 1.25 wall thickness. This would give me a 2.5mm inner diameter which is required for an M3 tap. Is there anything I'm missing or over looking?

Also if there is an american size closer to M3 that I can use instead or is more readily available please let me know.

Could I use this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee...+tubing+3%2F16

[Szczerba]

Check out this thread too. Tons of good information. Several ways to make em.

How To: Make your own links


I tried this route a while back. McMaster Carr sells prethreaded standoffs and threaded 8/32 rods to make for a clean and easy setup. Use a pipecutter to trim them to length.
See post #210 for Stang's idea and then I tried it out on post #219.

....

[cabron]

3/16 aluminum rod and a 10-32 or 10-24 die
large revo rod ends and a 10-32 or 10-24 tap
you can cut the rod to length, cut threads on the ends, tap the rod ends
and bend to your hearts desire.

you have some links that are strong and light and cheaper than the abortions that using all-thread and tubing
and probably easier to make as well.

4mm is just under 8-32 size
here is a useful link to get comparative sizes between us and metric screws
http://mdmetric.com/tech/tict.htm

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by cabron

3/16 aluminum rod and a 10-32 or 10-24 die
large revo rod ends and a 10-32 or 10-24 tap
you can cut the rod to length, cut threads on the ends, tap the rod ends
and bend to your hearts desire.

you have some links that are strong and light and cheaper than the abortions that using all-thread and tubing
and probably easier to make as well.

4mm is just under 8-32 size
here is a useful link to get comparative sizes between us and metric screws
THREAD IDENTIFICATION CHART

I like this idea. Question, with that 10-32 or 10-24 will that fit into the M3 rod ends?

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Check out this thread too. Tons of good information. Several ways to make em.

How To: Make your own links


I tried this route a while back. McMaster Carr sells prethreaded standoffs and threaded 8/32 rods to make for a clean and easy setup. Use a pipecutter to trim them to length.
See post #210 for Stang's idea and then I tried it out on post #219.

....

I dug through there some more and found a few more ideas. Thanks

I'm starting to wonder if I can use the Revo ends instead of the bent links and still avoid binding.

[cabron]

the traxxas large jato rod ends are thick and strong. they are made for 4mm and many guys use them for 8-32.
10-32 is not that much bigger and as long as you run the tap into the rodend it will be fine.
I imagine any rodend for 4mm will work fine whether metal or plastic, the jato ends are so easy and cheap ....

TowerHobbies.com | Traxxas Rod Ends/Hollow Balls Jato (12)

I think I said revo before, I meant large jato. they are a bit longer

if you use these, it is a snap to get the right length.
determine the length you want, subtract 1 1/2 inches to get the rod length
then cut 1/2 inch of threads on each end assemble.
I usually make them a bit longer and cut a few more threads then trim them up to look nice
the important measurements are 3/4 + uncut rod + 3/4 = eye to eye with 1/2 of cut threads at each end

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by cabron

the traxxas large jato rod ends are thick and strong. they are made for 4mm and many guys use them for 8-32.
10-32 is not that much bigger and as long as you run the tap into the rodend it will be fine.
I imagine any rodend for 4mm will work fine whether metal or plastic, the jato ends are so easy and cheap ....

TowerHobbies.com | Traxxas Rod Ends/Hollow Balls Jato (12)

I think I said revo before, I meant large jato. they are a bit longer

if you use these, it is a snap to get the right length.
determine the length you want, subtract 1 1/2 inches to get the rod length
then cut 1/2 inch of threads on each end assemble.
I usually make them a bit longer and cut a few more threads then trim them up to look nice
the important measurements are 3/4 + uncut rod + 3/4 = eye to eye with 1/2 of cut threads at each end

I guess I'm probably over thinking the need for bent link ends. I mean I'm using a Wraith skid anyways so I really shouldn't need the bent ends.

Also I've been looking at the Traxxas ends.

[cabron]

there are many ways to skin a cat, and the cat ends up skinned no matter which way.

all are workable ideas no matter what I say, just seems silly to complicate matters.
it is not that easy to end up with 4 pieces of tube the same length. (at least not for me)
I threaded 1/4 alu tubing to 8-32 and used a short piece of all thread, worked great
but cutting threads on a piece of rod is so straight forward, I changed everything over.

the bent rod ends were necessary on the xr-10 where room was at a premium.
bending the rod will accomplish almost the same if you have the room.
all thread plus tubing will cost more than rod

what is good is that you are making the links yourself and adding personal value
to your rig

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by cabron

there are many ways to skin a cat, and the cat ends up skinned no matter which way.

all are workable ideas no matter what I say, just seems silly to complicate matters.
it is not that easy to end up with 4 pieces of tube the same length. (at least not for me)
I threaded 1/4 alu tubing to 8-32 and used a short piece of all thread, worked great
but cutting threads on a piece of rod is so straight forward, I changed everything over.

the bent rod ends were necessary on the xr-10 where room was at a premium.
bending the rod will accomplish almost the same if you have the room.
all thread plus tubing will cost more than rod

what is good is that you are making the links yourself and adding personal value
to your rig

For sure I hear ya. So what did you end up with? Rod and the die on the ends or tapped tubing?

How easy does the tubing bend anyways? Would think that it would be more prone to kinking since it's hollow inside.

[Reflektr]

In the past I've always just got 3/16 solid rod, cut it to length, and run a die down either end... Screw on some Revo rod ends and call 'er good. Cheap and easy.

[cabron]

cutting threads on rod is by far the best. of course in my opinion. haha
I have most of the suspension and steering links done on the 4 crawlers I work on
make that 5 counting the super.
though as white trash suggested, I too use traxxas steering turnbuckles for the drag link

after the first one I saw how easy it is and how well they turn out. rod is also easier to bend than tubing
at least there is no chance of crimping the rod.
having a good die with handle helps a lot, also the oil to keep the cutter clean working smoothly and .
using the 3/16 rod with 10-32 you get plenty of strength for the cost. with titanium you could go smaller diameter
but it is more difficult to cut and bend let alone the extra cost.

[GTSLOW]

Orders placed. So I went with:

3/16 aluminum rod
Jato ends
Revo ends
10-32 die and tap

Figured having the two different rod ends will allow for some fine tuning if needed.