Pillow Ball Restricting Flex

[MAGNUMB]

What is recommended to free up tight pillow balls?
I've tried heating them and spinning them with a drill and I've also tried polishing the pillow ball itself. Any other options?

[Natedog]

What brand/model are parts for/from, picture? The 'window' or hole that pillow ball shank mounts through is usually a limiting factor too. However, if that hole is too large, it will pull through much easier.

[JatoTheRipper]

Why did you create a separate thread instead of responding here???

Ball Cup Reamer for Sticky Links

[EeePee]

Set screws in the links and rod ends could be too tight. No idea what truck it is.

[MAGNUMB]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Why did you create a separate thread instead of responding here???

Ball Cup Reamer for Sticky Links

Found those after I posted this and thought it fit better within the tool thread. I ordered them but probably won't arrive for a few weeks. I'll update this thread after I try them it out. Using it for the 3&4 link TF2 link set. Some of them are super tight and will for sure affect the handling.

[Highmark]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Set screws in the links and rod ends could be too tight. No idea what truck it is.

Yeah, I would definitely bet on that being the culprit. Especially if they don't loosen up after the first run.

[BigSki]

You want some resistance when they're new, they will get sloppy all too quick on their own.

[MAGNUMB]

Originally Posted by BigSki

You want some resistance when they're new, they will get sloppy all too quick on their own.

Not sure that will be the case with mine as I also tried spinning the pillow ball in the link with a drill using a heat gun and then tried polish compound and only found slight improvement. With other links I found using pliers to squeeze and stretch the plastic worked but not with these.

Maybe I'm a little too concerned as it's only a crawler....used to race 2wd buggy and found that tight links negatively affect handling and I'm used to making sure everything is "free". Probably won't matter as much with a 8-9lb rig

[Robbob]

If theyre brand new link ends I always put the pillow in then squish the ball end with a pair of pliers. Frees them right up right away for me.

But what kind of truck? You putting matching brands and sizes in there? Some may look the same but even a few thousands make as difference.

[84yoda]

I like mine tight. I hate when there loose and floppy.

But on a serious note, there's no way there that tight and restricting flex. You sure your using the right ones together like robbob said?

[cabron]

84yoda
use poly grip


the difference between a young prostitute and an old prostitute is that
the young pro will use Vaseline and the older pro will use poly grip

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Set screws in the links and rod ends could be too tight. No idea what truck it is.

...your response confuses me even further.

I was wondering if the OP is talking about plastic ball ends or the shock's cap (eye mount) ?

I've seen where many over tighten a link's rod thread insert too far into a plastic ball end
and can deform the plastic eye causing the ball to bind.

Either I'm lacking with in nomenclature or this discussion has me confused.
I thought that pillow ball mounts were located at the top and thru the shock's cap eye ?

OP what shocks and what pillow balls are being utilized ?
How tight are those in the eye ?

I'm thinking they would loosen up after some use/break in !?

further clarification will set me straight.

[EeePee]

Either one really, squeeze your balls to tight and they'll deform.

[TacoCrawler]

^ Lol sounds like that hurts

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

further clarification will set me straight.

Originally Posted by MAGNUMB

Using it for the 3&4 link TF2 link set. Some of them are super tight and will for sure affect the handling.

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by MAGNUMB

Not sure that will be the case with mine as I also tried spinning the pillow ball in the link with a drill using a heat gun and then tried polish compound and only found slight improvement. With other links I found using pliers to squeeze and stretch the plastic worked but not with these.

Maybe I'm a little too concerned as it's only a crawler....used to race 2wd buggy and found that tight links negatively affect handling and I'm used to making sure everything is "free". Probably won't matter as much with a 8-9lb rig

I'd have to agree, they do sound way too tight. When I used to make my own links, I found that it was possible to thread the rod end on too far, the link end would bottom out into the pocket where the metal ball end goes, making it next to impossible to get the ball to move. I think this is what EeePee was trying to explain.

[TacoCrawler]

^ guess I missed that

then EeePee's ball end, eye deformation theory is likely spot on.

OP... back out the threaded inserts, threaded into the ball ends slightly and see if that might loosen up the balls enough to move more freely.

Tho' it's possible the ball ends have become permanently deformed and will require purchasing new ball ends to rectify.

But ya might get lucky and is all you'll need to do.

[BigSki]

I always use Revo rod ends and I could still run a rod end down too far and cause the ball to bind up. You'd think I would have learned to not put too many threads on the end of the link....

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by BigSki

You'd think I would have learned to not put too many threads on the end of the link....

I was thinking that

[badhoopty]

i do it every once in awhile... especially on buggies with turnbuckles and ball cups like rc10 buggies.