Cantilever Suspension

[Brake Weight]

This subject has been brought up off and on but not into great detail. Searching and the spelling of 'cantilever' have some play in the matter as well.



The Dinky Cantilever seems to be the first 'produced' kit. It uses the 1/16 Mini eRevo rockers. The front and rear rockers are of a different ratio and I haven't determined which one is used. From what I've read the 1/16 gear uses smaller hardware than the traditional m3 associated with 1/10 scale RCs. Also, the common Revo ends used to make links and such will not fit the rockers. Again, lends to smaller hardware. The 1/16 shocks are +/-47mm eye to eye.

Yeah Racing Yeah Racing X Dinky RC Cantilever Suspension Kit For Axial SCX10 II





Pic of the 1/16 rockers from fleaBay. The Merv has two sizes and looks like 1.5:1 and 2:1. Front and rear I'll assUme. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Also any info for lengths between mounting holes is welcome.





The Vaterra Twin Hammers uses m3 hardware and is a 2:1 ratio. My TH rockers were 9mm from shock to fixed mount and 19mm from fixed mount to link for axle.





I have ordered a set for the Revo 3.3 which were cheap and a long travel setup. This was really just to see what it is all about and I do not expect them to work well at all. I found a good side pic of the long travel kind I ordered. Zoomed in and it looks like a 2.5:1 ratio on one set and 2.25:1 on the other. Lengths are currently unknown. If the 1/16 shocks are 47mm long then I could use the Revo 3.3 shocks that are 80mm and achieve a similar balance. They can be limited internally and externally as needed or a new set of shocks sourced that would fit the bill.






There are a couple of Shapeways mounts for the Dinky kit.

SCX10
https://www.shapeways.com/product/VV...ionId=58006094


Ascender
https://www.shapeways.com/product/5X...ionId=57888163

[Brake Weight]

Example of an outboard setup with SCX10 axles and brief explanation of the smaller hardware.

Originally Posted by c0bra

I got the cantilever set up done! Since I didn't really see any threads on google about using the mounts from shapeways, so I'll explain what I did.

To attach the upper shock mount to the shapeways mount I drilled part of the way thru the other side of it to countersink the screw. I then took out the tiny hallow ball in the 1/16 revo shock and put a plastic axial one on the screw to space it out. Then put the shock on followed by a m3 washer and nylock nut.

The 1/16 revo rockers are were the biggest problems happened but I'll explain how I got everything mounted. Were the rocker pivots on the mount I used the stock screw that traxxas uses. Then I had to drill out the other 2 holes on the rocker so that I could screw in a m3 screw without needing to use a nut. I used m3x10 cap head screws on both sides of it. To attach the shock I again removed the tiny hallow ball traxxas uses. Then with the screw most of the way in on one side of the rocker I used 4 m3 washers on each side of the shock. On the other end its just a revo rod end.

The link that goes from the rocker to the axle is just 2 revo rod ends and some threaded rod. I noticed when getting to this point, at ride height the upper links are parallel to the ground, so to get the length of the link I took all the wheels and propped it up so that the front and rear were both at ride height and used that to get the links made.


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[Brake Weight]

Example of an inboard setup, although it uses homemade rockers.

Originally Posted by dirk379

Someone wanted a pic of the cantilever set up, it's since been changed a little bit. This is basically how it still is, just beefier and different push rods. I'll get current ones later.


The rear fender wells were fun, these were probably made 6 months ago lol. They are attached to the body.

[jared86]

So i was looking for a dinky setup when started thinking... Then went searching and playing. The other night I made my own cantilever setup from spare parts. It's completely rough since I just threw it together but I'll go back through and clean everything up and make it look all pretty. Plus make another for the other side. This is gonna use 90mm shocks and seems to really work well. I think it's gonna be a great setup. And best of all... Free.

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[Brake Weight]

Good idea. I've got some of these for a droop kit that could be used.

[JatoTheRipper]

Good thread!

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[jrkilburn]

I've been running the twin hammers set up for over a year on an ascender chassis. It was very easy to do.

D90-T Ascender(ish)

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...9&share_type=t


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[Brake Weight]

Good deal. What shocks are those? You've got a lot of preload it looks like.

[ElChupacabra]

I put the parts I took off my Twin Hammers on an SCX frame. All the stock Twin Hammers parts plus a pair of suspension lift plates for the mounting bracket. All stuff I just had sitting around. Works awesome. I also checked when I put it together, all the parts are less than the Dinky kit if I was to buy them and do another cantilever.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by ElChupacabra

I put the parts I took off my Twin Hammers on an SCX frame. All the stock Twin Hammers parts plus a pair of suspension lift plates for the mounting bracket. All stuff I just had sitting around. Works awesome. I also checked when I put it together, all the parts are less than the Dinky kit if I was to buy them and do another cantilever.

Can you post some pics of the max flex? Looks like this is the way to go.

[ElChupacabra]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Can you post some pics of the max flex? Looks like this is the way to go.

One Tamiya spray can is always my target flex. I think it's the perfect amount for a 1.9 truck. I had to weight the chassis down and find some wheels to stick on it. This chassis has just been sitting on a shelf since I figured out the cantilever. Too many builds!





Don't mind the TRX4 take off wheels. They were within arms reach. They're for sale if anybody happens to be interested...

[Brake Weight]

That's not bad at all. So you've never actually wheeled it but it looks like it may do well. I went ahead and ordered a set of Twin Hammer's rockers for $6. Can't hurt to try to duplicate something like what you've got going.

[ElChupacabra]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

That's not bad at all. So you've never actually wheeled it but it looks like it may do well. I went ahead and ordered a set of Twin Hammer's rockers for $6. Can't hurt to try to duplicate something like what you've got going.

Nope, never seen power. It was supposed to be my class 1 build for next season but I basically stole a Trailfinder 2 from a guy locally on Craigslist and this chassis went on a shelf. I also used the LC70 body from this build for another Class 2 truggy build. Like I said, too many builds...

I ordered the softest springs available for the TH shocks. They seem to be pretty good and the whole suspension reacts just like an upright shock. I assume this would wheel pretty good. The guy who won our clubs scale class 2 season runs cantilever rear so I know it can work.

[Brake Weight]

From the SCX10II forum.

Originally Posted by talmond

My custom cantilever setup. Performs well


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[Brake Weight]

Another rig, but from the 1.9 forum. This one is front and back which is what I am thinking of doing.

Originally Posted by derrick.johnston

Just thought I'd share some tinkering I did. It works really well and it's adjustable/tunable.









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[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by jared86

So i was looking for a dinky setup when started thinking... Then went searching and playing. The other night I made my own cantilever setup from spare parts. It's completely rough since I just threw it together but I'll go back through and clean everything up and make it look all pretty. Plus make another for the other side. This is gonna use 90mm shocks and seems to really work well. I think it's gonna be a great setup. And best of all... Free.

Screw buying kits so you can be like every other prick out there. Hand fabrication is where this hoby started.

Was just cruising hobbyking.com and found these . They look like they'd be a perfect addition to your setup.

[eric113]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Screw buying kits so you can be like every other prick out there.

Sometimes pricks don't have time build their prickly shit.

[Brake Weight]

@WHITE-TRASH

Those aluminum arms look like a good and cheap setup and offers easy tuning ability.


My mail lady brought my Traxxas fleaBay pull off kit of Revo 3.3 nitro pieces. A whole lotta stuff for $6.


I think I'll give these a go at some point my when I get time to tinker.

For the math gurus out there.

1st set
Long side is 43mm to 20mm to the mounting pivot. Mounting pivot back to link end is 38mm to complete the triangle.


2nd set
Long side is 43mm to 15mm to the mounting pivot. Mounting pivot back to link end is 40mm to complete the triangle.

[jared86]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Screw buying kits so you can be like every other prick out there. Hand fabrication is where this hoby started.

Was just cruising hobbyking.com and found these . They look like they'd be a perfect addition to your setup.

Absolutely. Thank you!! I'll be ordering them. Once I get this setup tuned how I like it I'll be cutting out some new mounts so they look nicer.

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[84yoda]

If your looking for some cheap shocks, look into the yeti jr front shocks. They are scx shocks but shorter at 45mm-62mm.