Desert Lizard shocks droop setup

[bbrigg]

I am thinking about using some Desert Lizard shocks set up for droop on my TRX-4 but want to keep the ride height the same. I have Jazrider shock mounts which allow me +- 4mm in mounting height at the top and will be getting the GPM lower shock mounts which allow three different positions so at least another few mm of adjustment available from there. I'm hoping to keep at least the same compression travel as stock.

I have two questions. Other than the obvious lower center of gravity, what is the benefit of the droop setup? Is it only the extra travel?

My second question is what is the ratio of droop spring to normal spring in the Desert Lizards, i.e. would I need 110mm or 120mm shocks to get close to the original ride height?

If this is just a dumb idea please explain why.

[ksonghasun]

I'm running a droop set-up more for a sense of scale simulation. I've yet to run it on a trail but I was able to get it up a step over the height of the hood without flipping. So, thus far, I'm liking the way the droop setup looks and feels in the backyard over stock setup.

I'm still using stock GTS shocks but with 20WT oil. I'm also using the stock front springs in the rear instead. For the front, I have Traxxas 8044 0.39 rate springs in the front now.

That being said, you can probably just do your own droop setup with the stock shocks and still maintain stock height by adjusting preload.

[hillbillyrc]

Suspension: "Droop" (The What, Why, and How)

This link might help out

[Highmark]

I wouldn't consider droop as something that will improve performance in this day and age. 10+ years ago it was neat, but you won't see anyone competing in comp crawlers or scale with a droop suspension for good reason.

[bbrigg]

Thanks for your answers. I'd actually looked up droop all over the web and managed to find very similar information. I'd come to the conclusion that droop should not be our goal but rather a product of desired ride height, correct spring selection and preload adjustment.

I'm looking at the droop setup more as a way of increasing overall travel with the droop springs stopping the wheels from dropping into crevices too much while still having that extra bit of articulation available. Can anybody think of any benefit to this sort of setup or would I be better off just using 100mm shocks in a standard way for increased travel?

[Ninomaniac]

Droop means nothing.
I'd bet you don't need increased travel anyway. Not on a top heavy thing like the TRX4.

[bbrigg]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

Droop means nothing.
I'd bet you don't need increased travel anyway. Not on a top heavy thing like the TRX4.

Tactical without spare tire and holder with heavy metal axles. Not so top heavy anymore. Waiting for a Pro-line F150 Raptor body to arrive, the joys of being an expat, and will be lighter again.

[Voodoobrew]

As with anything there is a trade off, and this is my opinion based of of my experience in the 1:1 world and with the laws of physics.

Traditional coilover springs only push down, and they are alwayse trying to extend.
One problem with this is as you reduce the weight they will extend further, when your on a side hill and the passenger side of the car is down hill. The weight of the car will transfer to the passenger springs, this compresses the passenger springs, while at the same time the drivers side springs are under less load, so those shocks can extend, this pushes the body weight further to the passenger side causing those springs to compress more. Now the stiffness of the springs make a huge impact here in ways I'm not going to explain cause it's complicated. But its a bit easier to roll over with this setup.

Full droop springs and constantly trying to shorten the shock shaft. At rest your car will ride low to the ground and hitting a bump will have no give at all. This setup allows toy to keep a low center of gravity and also allows down travel of the wheels to remain in contact with the earth. Its a bit easier to get hung up on your skid with this setup. Perhaps you have seen one of those crawler videos where the guy has a winch connected to his frame above the front axle to suck up the front end on those "oh shit!" climbs? This is kinda like that.

Partial Droop springs are partially compressed at rest (under no weight pull). A basic way to look at this setup is that it works like leaf springs. Leaf springs try to get to their rest curve, jack your car up by the frame and the springs will be pulling your tires up. set your truck down and the springs push in the opposite direction.
One benefit to this setup is when you have droop in the front of your car and your on a steep climb and your crawler is nearing its tipping point, there is very little load on those front shocks. So if you have your shocks set to be only 20% extended at rest the springs will not try to extend to 100% and push your rig over as soon.
This is just trying to give you the benefit of droop and still some spring to absorb impact.

For the most part droop is only beneficial for steep rocks and slow climbs. not something you would consider for racing or trailing.
I don't think comp guys use this because of their already low center of gravity. It makes a bigger difference the higher your center of gravity is.
If you disagree I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.

[AK KRAWLER]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

If you disagree I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.

Super old thread. I was reading and laughed out loud, at my desk.... now everyone is looking at me like

So I had to share!