SSD Trailing Arm

[WHITE-TRASH]

VP trailing arms have the strongest design. They're one parts I never have to worry about. Something like jec/supershafty with sleeves 4mm ends might work too. Rod ends are just a consumable item in my world but I fully understand the frustration.

[Jim85IROC]

The drawback to the Vanquish design is that you eliminate the "consumable" and have to toss the whole arm when the ball ends wear out. Granted it might take a long time, but with enough use, it will happen.

[Browneye]

So how do you thread a stud into a plastic rod end without crushing the threads? Or are you putting them in with the socket end, then lock-titing them into the link rods? If so, then you have to ruin the threads to remove them from a rod end if they're locktited in.

I'm in the middle of assembling and upgrading a couple of axial rig's links - both scx10 and bomber. Both have 4mm ends. All my Vaterra stuff is 3mm - never had any issues with their alloy links and ends.

[Jim85IROC]

For the JECs they recommend that you fully seat the set screw into the trailing arm, then twist the rod ends on until they're fully seated. I initially did it the opposite way, but ended up not getting the set screws fully seated into the end links.

As for threadlock, it should be completely unnecessary. There's nowhere for the set screw to go. It will be threaded tight enough into the plastic that it won't ever turn.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

I wonder if the SSDs would be stronger if the arm was trimmed down flush with the surface that the end of the rod end contacts, and then a thicker rod end is used. This is how the MFR arms are designed.

Possibly - I think that fact that the rod end tapers and then slips in to the trailing arm does create a "lever effect" or stress riser.

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Possibly - I think that fact that the rod end tapers and then slips in to the trailing arm does create a "lever effect" or stress riser.

Plus by not tapering the rod end, the body will be that much thicker throughout.

Not to knit pick, but if they made that change, they could also use a Revo rod end with an M4 set screw.

Anybody who already has these who wants to stop breaking rod ends could make this change themselves quite easily. Just cut or grind off the end of the trailing arm, enlarge and tap the existing hole, and cut the Revo/Jato rod ends to the correct length if required. If they don't have an M4 thread tap, an 8/32 tap & 8/32 set screws would do the job.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

The drawback to the Vanquish design is that you eliminate the "consumable" and have to toss the whole arm when the ball ends wear out. Granted it might take a long time, but with enough use, it will happen.

Do you want to risk sudden failure or have something that wears over the years that makes it obvious when it needs replacement?

[sdmf]

My jec aluminums have been super durable. Only handful of rod ends over the past year and change. Yeti w/pro4 HD 3800kv. Heavy rig too

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Do you want to risk sudden failure or have something that wears over the years that makes it obvious when it needs replacement?

The Revo rod ends are well known to be very durable, and considering how many plastic rod ends there are on one truck, eliminating 4 isn't going to change much. Plus, my life doesn’t depend on the reliability of my RC, so I don't really care.

[durok]

I broke rod ends on my kit Axial Bomber links without breaking the SSD trailing arm rod ends...

But, that frustrated me enough to swap the whole rig to JEC, every link (not just trailing arms, upper/lower & even the steering links) - so it's insanely beefy (and HEAVY) now...

Next time I'll likely go with the 7075 version of the trailing arms, and probably try White Knuckle R/C Rock Crawlers/ American Machine Works SS links for the rest, and SSD's new M4 Titanium steering links.

I bought the v1 SSD Titanium Wraith/Bomber (M3) steering links, then the v2 of the same (still M3, but different geometry) when they came out - and wouldn't ya know it, they then released a M4 version!

I'd love it if SSD redid all their AR60 links in M4, and came out with a full set of titanium upper and lower links, but I dunno if I really want another set of 6061 aluminum trailing arms in M3 OR M4...too soft.

I'm fine with certain Vanquish products, but their SS links had a lot of complaints (bending/breaking of the threaded sections) and then became impossible to find for ages, so I'd rather try the new vendor (and I've never been a fan of Vanquish's trailing arm design).

I still wouldn't mind a set of CarterFab's ugly but strong and purposeful-looking hardened steel trailing arms, but he's been out of stock for so long that I think they're possibly discontinued.

There's a niche that someone could fill rather easily, cut and weld and there ya go!

(I live in a one-bedroom apartment, so it won't be me...)

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

The Revo rod ends are well known to be very durable, and considering how many plastic rod ends there are on one truck, eliminating 4 isn't going to change much. Plus, my life doesn’t depend on the reliability of my RC, so I don't really care.

Of course nobodies life depends upon reliability but if your race or race championship depends on it that changes things just a bit.

I kill revo ends regularly so eliminating as many as possible is a good thing.

[Steve g]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

VP trailing arms have the strongest design. They're one parts I never have to worry about. Something like jec/supershafty with sleeves 4mm ends might work too. Rod ends are just a consumable item in my world but I fully understand the frustration.

How long has the vp held up for you? And for someone who isn't competing, would it be better to have a solid design as those, or a set with revo ends as a weak link to break before something more expensive breaks? Still deciding on a set myself

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[mewalsh100]

Honestly, I had the exact same issue on my Losi Baja Rey. "Upgraded" to the Losi TLR aluminum trailing arms - and yes, M3 hardware. It's a fast and somewhat heavy truck, so it was continuous rod end breakage. I ended up going with HR 1 piece units - NO rod ends. That was well over a year ago and I've had ZERO issues since. So, in my opinion, I think I'll go with a 1 piece design. I understand that eventually, the ball ends will wear out, and may become sloppy. But honestly, after what, 3 years in a crawler type rig? If I amortize the $45 over that period of time, I'm not too concerned about that eventuality. Not to mention not having to dick with replacing rod ends every couple weeks!

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Steve g

How long has the vp held up for you? And for someone who isn't competing, would it be better to have a solid design as those, or a set with revo ends as a weak link to break before something more expensive breaks? Still deciding on a set myself

I've been running VP trailing arms for 6 months or so, I haven't had to adjust the ends yet so they're holding up fine. I don't like failure which is unfortunate because i break a lot I tend to overbuild trying to eliminate weak points.

I'd be interested in trying trx4 or rpm rod ends in trailing arms to see how they hold up vs revo. I'm not impressed with revo but for the longest time it was the only rear option.

[ninja turtle]

These have been on my yeti for over 3 years. I’ve had to readjust the balls twice, 2nd time being right now. They are just as tight now, after the adjustment as they were when they were new.




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[mewalsh100]

@ninja turtle - it looks like you've hardly used them though!

[mprudic0404]

i havent had any issues with my ssd arms yet, but i do see how they can fail. i run a 9kv motor in a smt10 on 2s, so its just a matter of time. when i first got the arms, one thing i did was to removed the end links, and put a .5mm PTFE washer under them inside the link. my take is: the PTFE is soft and will flex/move/mold slightly to help prevent the m3 scew for pulling out of the end. I do rebuild things often, so if the m3 is bent or not true when i have it apart next time ill replace them.

The 9kv motor is great for high speeds, but i usualy run with lower speeds by way of 11 or 12 pinion and 93tooth spur. (also have 43/13 ring/pinion)

suprisingly this setup is excellent at very slow speeds(crawling).

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[mprudic0404]

failure to post! my son hit me full speed when i was not looking.



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[jokersinsanity]

Ouch i see alot of ppl have this issue with the ssd trailings arms so far ive been lucky with my 3 sets

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[mprudic0404]

bent the axle, broke the axle housing, and cracked the M3 SSD end, so not many arms would have survived. I think in this failure, its the favored breaking point. Not sure how the impact happened, but if one must replace the whole axle, then it was quite rough.

i havent tore it apart yet, so i hope the ring and pinion are ok. i want to be angry and mad, but i am more curious what all is damaged.

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