New axles. Yota 2 or ARB edition

[Fishbone.dk]

I need me a new pair of axles.
I have been Looking at RC4WD Yota 2 axles and at a pair on ebay, ARB Edition.
The price difference is not that big, but the Yota 2 do not have cvd or xvd axles and therefore i need to but that too.
I can not se what the ebay ARB axles have but it looks a little like the may could have something similar to the xvd axles.

Have anybody tried the ebay edition or should I just go all in aand use all my hard earned pennys on the Yota 2.

[BIGW0RM]

Id go yota for two reasons alone.


1.) yota has two shock mounts on rear axle. ARB has 1
2.) locked up RC makes steel parts for yota axles. Panhard mount is TOP NOTCH! The stock ones are crap soft metal.

[Fishbone.dk]

BIGWORM
Thanks for your reply.
Correct about the mount. I did not see that one.
Nice to know about the steel parts from locked up RC. I will definetly take it into my conciterations.

[TheLetterJ]

Personally, I have not been impressed with the Yota2 axles. I had a dogbone pin slide out of place and break the c-hub in the very first revolution out of the box. RC4WD was out of the bare housings at the time so I got another complete axle for ~1/2 price. The fit of the knuckles is very sloppy, and the kingpin screw holes strip out before they even had measureable torque applied to them. The XVD's are almost mandatory, so factor in that extra $50 upfront. I also was not able to acheive what I would consider "perfect" mesh of the gears, but I ran out of room to shim them further.

These went in a Tacoma build for my son, so they definitely looked the part, otherwise we would have opted for something else... almost anything else! The RC4WD cast K44's supposedly use a stronger gear set, and have CV axles as standard, as well as more meat for the kingpin screws to thread in to. I've been tempted to try out the cast K44's for myself, but my Yota2 experience has left me gunshy about RC4WD axles. I can't speak for those knockoff K44's, but I'd still give them a try before buying another set of Yota 2's. YMMV

What build are they going under?

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Personally, I have not been impressed with the Yota2 axles. I had a dogbone pin slide out of place and break the c-hub in the very first revolution out of the box. RC4WD was out of the bare housings at the time so I got another complete axle for ~1/2 price. The fit of the knuckles is very sloppy, and the kingpin screw holes strip out before they even had measureable torque applied to them. The XVD's are almost mandatory, so factor in that extra $50 upfront. I also was not able to acheive what I would consider "perfect" mesh of the gears, but I ran out of room to shim them further.

These went in a Tacoma build for my son, so they definitely looked the part, otherwise we would have opted for something else... almost anything else! The RC4WD cast K44's supposedly use a stronger gear set, and have CV axles as standard, as well as more meat for the kingpin screws to thread in to. I've been tempted to try out the cast K44's for myself, but my Yota2 experience has left me gunshy about RC4WD axles. I can't speak for those knockoff K44's, but I'd still give them a try before buying another set of Yota 2's. YMMV

What build are they going under?

I have the K44's on my TF2 right now and dont feel they where much of an upgrade at all over the yota1's mine came with. In fact, I think the steering knuckle is MUCH closer to the stock tire than the yota's. Mine touched now that I think about it. I had to use different offset wheels to not have the tire rub on the drag link because the arm off he hub is so close to the tires.

They bolt up exactly the same as the yota1 and I am useing the 3 and 4 link kits typically found on the yota axles with these K44 with no issues.

You cant do the steering knuckle bearing mod on the K44's either. And they look like they belong on a jeep or chevy truck. The diff cap bolts hit rocks easily too and get damaged quick.

I have not tried the Yota 2. But i like the Yota's more. I only replaced my yota 1's because I added a 500oz servo to it and didnt set end points first and riped the darn c hub right off the axle so I figured I would try something new and went K44's.

[Fishbone.dk]

TheLetterJ.
I am building 2 cars at the moment. A Defender 90 and a banged up rusty Blazer from RC4WD. I have a set of the Yota 2 copy that I will put under my Blazer with leaf springs, so the new set of axles will go under my Defender. Here i just use normal shocks and so far i think i will use 4 link, and chassis mounted servo.
I have not decided yet. I know that i will hate if the car is bad at turning, so good steering ability is very importent.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by Fishbone.dk

TheLetterJ.
I am building 2 cars at the moment. A Defender 90 and a banged up rusty Blazer from RC4WD. I have a set of the Yota 2 copy that I will put under my Blazer with leaf springs, so the new set of axles will go under my Defender. Here i just use normal shocks and so far i think i will use 4 link, and chassis mounted servo.
I have not decided yet. I know that i will hate if the car is bad at turning, so good steering ability is very importent.

My TF2 with yota1 and or the K44 axles would both turn to the point my 1.9 tires would hit the leafs OR the link kit if that helps you.

[Fishbone.dk]

WORMIE that would help. I am concidering just to buy a complete TF2 instead of trying to build something on an old axial frame

[BIGW0RM]

I love my TF2. It’s by far my favorite to work on. I’d highly suggest one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fishbone.dk]

I have ordered the ARB axles and a trailfinder chassis.
I also accidently ordered a 2. Blazer body.
Now I just hope I can make it all work together.

[Mattholmes]

Even I had the same issue. thanks for the responses.