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![]() | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Scotland
Posts: 2
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hello folks, I replaced the steering knuckles on my AR-44 axle with some RC4WD alloy ones, which went on smooth and initially felt great. But when I reinstalled the wheels they were binding making revolving near impossible, I need to back off the locknut a good full turn to free them up. Have I missed something? I'm sure there is a simple explanation and I will be more than happy to discover it's something I have done but it was a really straightforward swap over. Any ideas? |
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![]() | #2 |
RCC Addict ![]() Join Date: May 2013 Location: Forrestfield, Western Australia
Posts: 1,082
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I can't say for certain never having used those knuckles but 3 things spring to mind, 1- the most obvious is the inside of the wheel binding on a steering rod end or screw 2- could be if not standard hex make sure they're not binding on the knuckle 3- double check both bearings are properly seated in the knuckle & nothing is holding them out if a bearing isn't seated when you tighten the wheel nut it will load the bearing causing drag. |
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![]() | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Scotland
Posts: 2
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thanks altd896 stripped it all down and re-assembled and no change, I'm pretty certain the hex is binding on the knuckle, initially I thought it was the bearings not seating properly. I'll keep investigating but thanks.
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![]() | #4 |
Tiny Truck Hoarder ![]() Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,433
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You could try adding in a some washers on top of the wheel hex to push the wheel out. Mainly just as a test, if that fixes it and you can still fully tighten the wheel then that would indicate that the wheel is or was touching the knuckle. If it just needs to be pushed out a tiny bit a washer would be okay but if it needs more you might consider a wider wheel hex. BTW what wheels are they? If you can post pics of the inside of the wheels and the knuckle we might be able to glean some more clues. You could also try loosening it just enough so it turns, spin it a bit and then take it off and inspect to see if there are any marks indicating contact (either on the wheel the knuckle or the inside of the hex). Last edited by HumboldtEF; 05-21-2019 at 03:49 PM. |
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![]() | #5 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Cawston, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 469
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Another check would be to remove the wheel, add a washer or 2 to replicate the thickness of the wheel and tighten everything as you would to mount the wheel. If it turns freely then the problem is with the wheel. If it doesn't turn freely, loosen the locking nut the 1 turn you mentioned and see if turns freely. If it now turns freely, the problem is most probably with the hex. By checking this without the wheel mounted you can also get a better view of what is happening with the hex relative to the knuckle. It sounds like you only replaced the knuckle so I'm inclined to believe there is a problem between the knuckle and the hex.
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![]() | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: UK
Posts: 1,516
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It could be the back of the wheel hub binding on the knuckle front face. If the hex pocket in the wheel hub is deep and the hex is narrow then this could happen. What wheels are they? Also I'm guessing you changed more than one part as only changing the knuckles probably would not cause this. Last edited by SSD; 05-22-2019 at 09:03 AM. |
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Tags |
knuckle, rc4wd, scx10 2, steering |
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