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Old 10-25-2018, 04:49 PM   #1
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Default SSD Trailing Arm

SSD - I want my $ back. I have now officially lost count of how many rod ends I've snapped off the Yeti Trailing arms I picked up. If you're goal was to drive me to the poorhouse a few rod-ends / bucks at a time, mission accomplished. The problem seems to be the way the rod ends enter in to the end of the trailing arm. The slightest little spill of tumble and all the force from the aluminum arm transmits right to the rod end and the inevitable "Snap!".

What's crazier still, these were designed for a Yeti, which is a much faster and more raucous vehicle than this Wraith based crawler I have them on.

Tonight, I was trolling around in the front yard after playing with drag brake settings and curves in Castle Link. Going all the more of fast walking speed, I rolled the rig, on GRASS, and of course...….."Snap!". Seriously, If I had to guess, I'd say this is number 10, maybe 11.

Anyway, frustration level is at max. If anyone has any suggestions on trailing arms, about Yeti length, and that will fit within a Wraith skid, please let me know. I'd love to use the HR trailing arms off of my Baja Rey as they are one piece all the way through - no rod ends to break off, but they're about 3/4" too long.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:23 PM   #2
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

JEC racing, similar design, but sized for 4mm rod ends instead. Stuff some RPM rod ends in them and I'd imagine they'd be as stout as anything else. The Vanquish TA's have an integrated ball/rod end, so you're not as likely to snap them, but once the ends are worn, you'll have to buy another full set.
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:29 PM   #3
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

I run JEC Racing trailing arms on all of my U4 rigs including Losi Rock Rey, Axial Yeti, Bomber and a Wraith with Bomber skid.

I have broken one rod end in 2 years and that was after some asshat t-boned me at full throttle into a rear wheel.

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Old 10-25-2018, 06:00 PM   #4
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Excellent - thank you for the info guys. I’m going to check out the JEC arms.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:07 PM   #5
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Default SSD Trailing Arm

3mm will fail if your having fun. I had more issues with 3mm than I had time in . I switched to the 4mm and ended all problems. I’ve yet to find ANY 3mm that don’t fail, so SSD isn’t the issue, just us trying to buy correct!


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Old 10-25-2018, 06:26 PM   #6
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

My JEC Racing SS arms are incredible...

That said, you can go with their 7075 aluminum that are the EXACT same design and save a ton of weight.

And 7075 is much harder than 6061, which gets gouged by rocks.


Last edited by durok; 10-25-2018 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:51 PM   #7
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Just checked their website. Looks like both stainless and alu are sold out at the moment. I’m planning on the alu for sure tho.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:54 PM   #8
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemcE View Post
3mm will fail if your having fun. I had more issues with 3mm than I had time in . I switched to the 4mm and ended all problems. I’ve yet to find ANY 3mm that don’t fail, so SSD isn’t the issue, just us trying to buy correct!


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Yeah mike, but the whole point is to have fun!

It’s the JEC units if I can find them, or the Vanquish 1 piece units if not.
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:01 PM   #9
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

I have the JEC arms on my Bomber and MFR on my Yeti. The MFRs use the same Revo rod ends, but with an 8/32 threaded rod instead of 4mm. The benefit of the MFRs is that they're super light weight. The drawback is that the shock ball end bottom is exposed. I like the MFR for the high speed yeti because of the light weight, but for a trail/crawl truck I'd go with the JEC.

JEC on the left, MFR on the right.

Last edited by Jim85IROC; 10-25-2018 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:59 PM   #10
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Do the JEC units come with the Rod Ends?
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:41 PM   #11
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

There are several options like mentioned above.
But looking at the picture your rods breaks at a point i never managed, using the SSD trailingarms on my Yeti. I can see one problem in yours, you didn"t screw the set screw wide enough into the rod end.


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Old 10-26-2018, 01:10 AM   #12
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Quote:
Originally Posted by mewalsh100 View Post
Just checked their website. Looks like both stainless and alu are sold out at the moment. I’m planning on the alu for sure tho.
Supershafty shows the aluminum ones in stock: https://supershafty.com/products/all...i-score-bomber

edit: sorry, my bad, only the wraith length in red are in stock.

Last edited by TheLetterJ; 10-26-2018 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:55 AM   #13
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

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Originally Posted by magic_yeti View Post
There are several options like mentioned above.
But looking at the picture your rods breaks at a point i never managed, using the SSD trailingarms on my Yeti. I can see one problem in yours, you didn"t screw the set screw wide enough into the rod end.


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Agreed, the set screw should be screwed into the rod at least until the red line

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Old 10-26-2018, 04:30 AM   #14
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

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Originally Posted by Pabust View Post
Agreed, the set screw should be screwed into the rod at least until the red line


This is your problem. The thread is not deep enough.



The thread size has nothing to do with it. The thread is not breaking.
If it was M4 tthread the plastic would be weaker actually as there would be less plastic.
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:34 AM   #15
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Quote:
Originally Posted by magic_yeti View Post
There are several options like mentioned above.
But looking at the picture your rods breaks at a point i never managed, using the SSD trailingarms on my Yeti. I can see one problem in yours, you didn"t screw the set screw wide enough into the rod end.


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No, I did. I just ran it all the way in before taking the pic. I bottomed all the screws out in the rod ends for installation.
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:36 AM   #16
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

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Originally Posted by SSD View Post
This is your problem. The thread is not deep enough.



The thread size has nothing to do with it. The thread is not breaking.
If it was M4 tthread the plastic would be weaker actually as there would be less plastic.
Guys - I'm not an idiot. See my above reply/post. The set screws were all bottomed out in the rod ends. Not my first rodeo as they say. I simply ran it all the way in when I threw it back together for the picture.
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:49 AM   #17
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

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Originally Posted by mewalsh100 View Post
Do the JEC units come with the Rod Ends?
No. You need to supply your own Revo ends. If you plan on hanging around RC for a while, you should have a 5 gallon pail full of them anyway.
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Old 10-26-2018, 08:34 AM   #18
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

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Originally Posted by SSD View Post
The thread size has nothing to do with it. The thread is not breaking.
If it was M4 tthread the plastic would be weaker actually as there would be less plastic.

I won’t disagree with you, but will state on 3mm ends I’ve pulled more than I can count out of the ends.
I went to 4mm and eliminated all my problems. This was on my drag link and tie rod on my 11 1/2 # Wraith and a strong fast servo with tall Hyrax tires



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Old 10-26-2018, 08:58 AM   #19
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Default Re: SSD Trailing Arm

Don't get me wrong, I like SSD stuff. Quality is generally well above average. On this particular part though, I think there are a couple things, if not a few, conspiring to create the failure point. 3mm ends being the first. I think the issue is then further exacerbated by the fact that the SSD rod end is tapered at the end that slips in to the trailing arm about 10mm or so. (See pic). In my experience(s), when they have broken, it's always at the junction of where the tapered portion meets the larger portion of the rod end. It's basically a big stress riser. Couple that with the afore mentioned 3mm factor, the tapered rod end, and aluminum vs plastic, and let's just call it "the perfect storm".
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:18 AM   #20
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I wonder if the SSDs would be stronger if the arm was trimmed down flush with the surface that the end of the rod end contacts, and then a thicker rod end is used. This is how the MFR arms are designed.
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