Filling Ar44 With oil?

[TITANIUM94010]

How would I go about filling an ar44 Axle (SSD Diamond Pro Axle) with the transmission or diff oil?

I'm running ar44s at around 20-30 mph, and normal grease just doesn't cut it. The helical gears create a lot of friction and get very hot.

Axle in question:




I'm thinking of drilling a small hole on the top/rear of the axle similar to the ones on the Vanquish AR44 curries, then using that to fill in oil with a syringe. I'll have rubber sealed bearings all around.

Do you think I'll need to use some sort of sealant for the axle cover? I think grease should cut it, but im not sure. Suggestions?

Thanks

[indybama]

Best bet is probably diff fluid for traxxas revo, xmaxx, stampede 4x4, etc. Those trucks go 30+ mph. The do have a rubber seal that goes in the diff case to keep from leaking. But u could get away with a thin layer of silicone gasket maker to do the same thing. I use 7000 cst diff oil in my bashers n seems to hold up good. Granted i do tend to blow diffs in my erevo, but i get a bit rough with it. But my stampede 4x4 takes a beatin n keeps goin. I dont think ive had to replace the diffs in it.

No real need to drill a hole in the diff/axle housing either. The diamond pro, the chunk comes out the front. Just til it back so the chunk is facing upwards, fill the housing, add a touch of sealant around the chunk n drop it in. Let it sit about 10-15 min for the gasket maker to set up n u should b good to go

[mikemcE]

I will say molybdenum grease, and don’t stuff it in . Thick grease can bind and cause heat


Hang up and Drive

[TexasSP]

What "normal grease" are you using? Typically diff fluid goes into where the spider gears are, not the ring and pinion. It's not really a lubricant as much as to tune the differential action for more or less slip. I have pretty much always used Lucas Red n' Tacky. Lucas is what actually made my Losi Worms in the LCC not overheat and have issues. A light coating is all it takes and the tubes are inexpensive and last forever.

Don't be fooled by anyone hocking expensive specially made RC Crawler Grease, most of the time it's just repackaged. I remember a certain unnamed vendor years ago that was repackaging the Lucas with a huge markup.

[TITANIUM94010]

I'm using Lucas Marine grease, which is the grease I use on all my RCs.

I've tried using a little bit of grease, and a lot of grease, but it always ends up getting hot after a bit.

The two internal 7x14x3.5mm bearings apparently only come unsealed and unshielded. (AX31406) I'll try to find a way to seal those another way.

The oil I'm using is Valvoline 80wt (~30cst) transmission oil, which shouldn't damage plastic.

[HumboldtEF]

Is the heat distorting the housings?

I have to assume this will just leak out but maybe you can just keep it topped off.

Might be worth using a temp gun to check before and after temps.

[TITANIUM94010]

I haven't tested with the new SSD housings, but the stock ar44s don't warp. However, the metal part of the driveshaft gets too hot to touch even for a second or two.

I still think oil will eventually slowly leak out, which is why I want to make a hole on the pumpkin with a small cap so I can easily refill with a syringe.

The diff cover and main driveshaft will be pretty easy to seal completely, I'm worried about the bearings and seals for the side driveshafts, as they aren't sheilded. Do you think I would need O rings or should I just allow oil to flow throughout the entire axle until it gets stopped by the wheel hex bearings?

[HumboldtEF]

Now you have me thinking about my Yeti score. Its rear driveshaft gets pretty damn hot when its not oiled up a little and even when it is lol. I think the heat may be localized to the driveshaft, I'm sure the ring gear and pinion are warm but I assume the larger mass helps spread and dissipate the heat better.

I dont know, maybe its not worth worrying about until it starts chewing up stuff.

[Gula]

Are you sure your Trans output and pinion is parallel as much as possible throughout suspension travel.

[HumboldtEF]

He should probably give us some more background info. I think this must be TITANIUM94010's pre-runner made from a crawler project.

[TITANIUM94010]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

He should probably give us some more background info. I think this must be TITANIUM94010's pre-runner made from a crawler project.

Yep, that’s the one. I’ve limited the suspension travel, but it’s still much much more than stock. But it’s not at an angle where it would cause too many issues at max travel. Normal ride height is around standard 10.2, if not lower. I’ve chewed up 2 diffs already, I’m trying a nice ssd diff now.

I think the oil filled axle will work I just gotta use a lot of gasket seal. Stuff arrives in a few days, so I guess I’ll see

But what’s the red cap on the vanquish Curries for?, or meant to be for?

[Gula]

Put 50/50 mix oil, lucas oil stabilizer. That sticks like stink on shit. I still think there will be wheel, tire, etc cleanup, as the clearances between bearings and the rubber dust covers can't contain a liquid under pressure. Seeps out, sweats out.

Maybe give filling the axle with graphite powder a try.

[Honeyman108]

Try COW RC UDDER BUDDER fill the diff up and seal it and you will BEE pleased.....

I use all metal gears and the Udder Budder keeps everything quiet and smooth......

BUZZZZZZZ.......

[Honeyman108]

Originally Posted by TITANIUM94010

Yep, that’s the one. I’ve limited the suspension travel, but it’s still much much more than stock. But it’s not at an angle where it would cause too many issues at max travel. Normal ride height is around standard 10.2, if not lower. I’ve chewed up 2 diffs already, I’m trying a nice ssd diff now.

I think the oil filled axle will work I just gotta use a lot of gasket seal. Stuff arrives in a few days, so I guess I’ll see

But what’s the red cap on the vanquish Curries for?, or meant to be for?

The red cap is to fill up the diff and it works I don't take it off as I use udder budder in my F9 Currie axles but that would be an axle option if your using liquid lubricants as opposed to solid lubricants.....

[TexasSP]

Try trading out the marine grease for red n tacky, some of the agents in the marine grease may be working against you. You could also be having some binding issues and may need to shim. Something else must be going on to cause that much friction and heat. But like I said, at least try out the red n tacky, after all it's cheap.

[themountain]

Originally Posted by TexasSP

You could also be having some binding issues and may need to shim. Something else must be going on to cause that much friction and heat. .

Exactly this !! TRy shimming or running in the pinion / trans gear with valve seat paste.

[mikemcE]

My thoughts are that these gears are made for slow crawling, not high speeds. Setting the mesh correctly is critical on real 3rd members.

I’m in agreement about lapping them with some clover compound then a hi temperature lube like molly caliper grease.


Hang up and Drive

[ferp420]

try dirt bike chain lube its made to stay on spinning chain and gears

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by indybama

Best bet is probably diff fluid for traxxas revo, xmaxx, stampede 4x4, etc. Those trucks go 30+ mph. The do have a rubber seal that goes in the diff case to keep from leaking. But u could get away with a thin layer of silicone gasket maker to do the same thing. I use 7000 cst diff oil in my bashers n seems to hold up good. Granted i do tend to blow diffs in my erevo, but i get a bit rough with it. But my stampede 4x4 takes a beatin n keeps goin. I dont think ive had to replace the diffs in it.

No real need to drill a hole in the diff/axle housing either. The diamond pro, the chunk comes out the front. Just til it back so the chunk is facing upwards, fill the housing, add a touch of sealant around the chunk n drop it in. Let it sit about 10-15 min for the gasket maker to set up n u should b good to go

I believe you're referring to the differential oil itself. Where as the OP is referring to the ring and pinion. I'm not sure you'd want to run 7,000 on those?

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[TITANIUM94010]

Hey guys, thanks for all the replies.

For shimming the ring and pinion, where would I shim it at? The opinion gear seems to be the one that moves the most, and the most effective shimming location seems to be on the driveshaft side of the bearing.

As for using grease, I cleaned out the original ar44 and added some traxxas moly grease I had on hand, and the gears still got pretty warm. They’re slightly stripped but still run well unless I go full throttle from a standstill, so that could have effected the temps. But there dosent seem to be much of a heat difference after 20 mins of driving.

I think I’ll go with the oil filled route first and gasket seal the driveshaft and hex bearings, and screws a little, and let the oil flow through the entire axle, it’s going to be near impossible to get it to stay only in the pumpkin. If it doesn’t work, it’s always easy to wash out oil with a pressure washer.
For now I’ve got a hole and screw for filling oil with a syringe