Driveshaft yoke preference

[oldblue2010]

I'm looking for suggestions on center (from trans to diffs) driveshafts for my SCX10 frame build- now is there any advantage to traditional youk (like the c-configuration) or the ball socket type yoke. No budget guy here so the MIP type shafts are out- any ideas? The aggle is pretty steep in my mind but it's pretty much a stock set up with a 4 link set up- Thanks in advance

[ferp420]

as a general rule the universal type are stronger the cv style is smoother but that goes out the window depending on what brand is making sead shafts
the universal joint or u joint or whats being refered to as a c joint by the op works best when the trans output and axle pinion are parrallell
the cv or constant volocity joint wants the axle pinion pointed at the trans output
thats more real wold thinking on a rc it dosent matter so much 1 because crawlers dont go fast enuff to develop strange harmonics and vibrations
and 2 the forces on the bearings and other componints are so small nothing is gona explode or ware out any faster cause yiur shafts are out of alignment
and 3 your not in the vehicle

basicly on a rc it dosent really matter what style shaft you use as long as its strong enuff to do what you need it to
i like gds brand shafts but they just a rebrand of someone elses shafts and i dont know the parent companys name that actualy makes them and there cv style but they have been pretty strong
incision makes some nice looking universal style shafts i have never used them my self but being a vanquish product im sure there bullet proof
if your looking some something wild or just plain crazy the axial wildboar hd8 shafts are crazystrong for being plastic and there extremely easy to customize and the shaft kit is cheap the shaft ends arent cheap though but thats the beef part and once you have the ends you can make a shaft any size you need from 1 inch to 2 ft

drive shafts you kinda get what you pay for its one part you dont want to cheap out on that sead mip might be over kill on most rigs
you still need to be carefull though

i look for hardend steel machined shafts with big beefy splines and stay away from anything stainless or aluminum

if you do cheap.out there are some bandaids that can be done to keep the cheap shafts together sometimes but best to spend alittle extra for something you can trust especialy if your just getting started

after rereading the original post i think the hd8 wild.boars might work best and since its axial already you know it fits
heres a link to the full kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/13396045926...mis&media=COPY

thats not cheap i know but you have other options like used https://www.ebay.com/itm/12426847175...mis&media=COPY

and theres the spline kits if you want to make custom langths or twist a shaft https://www.ebay.com/itm/13388040375...mis&media=COPY

and the coupler ends if you ever needed one https://www.ebay.com/itm/13291385092...mis&media=COPY

[oldblue2010]

Them wild bores look promising- here is my problem is they don't look long enough now can I get the wild bores AND then a center spline kit? Now looking at the spline kit- seems theres only one side that has splines? I have a 4 link and the measurements are about 5 1/4 in to 5 1/2 " front and rear at full extension. I do appreciate the help I've been at this a long time but health issues (stroke) sometimes slows down my understanding of things -

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by oldblue2010

Them wild bores look promising- here is my problem is they don't look long enough now can I get the wild bores AND then a center spline kit? Now looking at the spline kit- seems theres only one side that has splines? I have a 4 link and the measurements are about 5 1/4 in to 5 1/2 " front and rear at full extension. I do appreciate the help I've been at this a long time but health issues (stroke) sometimes slows down my understanding of things -

i too am a stroke surviver i get it lol

there are 2 differnt length a short kit and a long kit


also i only linked the single spline kit there is a double spline kit too and they can be doubled up if you need a really long one



then theres the yeti version center spline kit

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39412804106...pid=1437965032


the used set was for a scx10.3 but would work on a 10.2 or a 10.1 they have have close to the same wheel base i dought you would need longer shafts but lots of options if ya do



heck i have a wildboar shaft thats almost a foot long on a 1/8th scale hardbody raptor with the biggest motor that fit running 6s it will do atleast 50 mph and crawls rock

drive shaft holds up fine i did reinforce th3 center splines with a metal rod they have a tendency to twist if they get to hot and at 50 mph things heat up kinda quick

[ferp420]

nevermind the picture dident match the discription they werent the hd version

there are wb8 shafts that came.on the scx10.1 you dont want.those you want the wb8-hd
make sure its the wb8-hd version if you go that route

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

as a general rule the universal type are stronger the cv style is smoother but that goes out the window depending on what brand is making sead shafts
the universal joint or u joint or whats being refered to as a c joint by the op works best when the trans output and axle pinion are parrallell
the cv or constant volocity joint wants the axle pinion pointed at the trans output
thats more real wold thinking on a rc it dosent matter so much 1 because crawlers dont go fast enuff to develop strange harmonics and vibrations
and 2 the forces on the bearings and other componints are so small nothing is gona explode or ware out any faster cause yiur shafts are out of alignment
and 3 your not in the vehicle

basicly on a rc it dosent really matter what style shaft you use as long as its strong enuff to do what you need it to
i like gds brand shafts but they just a rebrand of someone elses shafts and i dont know the parent companys name that actualy makes them and there cv style but they have been pretty strong
incision makes some nice looking universal style shafts i have never used them my self but being a vanquish product im sure there bullet proof
if your looking some something wild or just plain crazy the axial wildboar hd8 shafts are crazystrong for being plastic and there extremely easy to customize and the shaft kit is cheap the shaft ends arent cheap though but thats the beef part and once you have the ends you can make a shaft any size you need from 1 inch to 2 ft

drive shafts you kinda get what you pay for its one part you dont want to cheap out on that sead mip might be over kill on most rigs
you still need to be carefull though

i look for hardend steel machined shafts with big beefy splines and stay away from anything stainless or aluminum

if you do cheap.out there are some bandaids that can be done to keep the cheap shafts together sometimes but best to spend alittle extra for something you can trust especialy if your just getting started

after rereading the original post i think the hd8 wild.boars might work best and since its axial already you know it fits
heres a link to the full kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/13396045926...mis&media=COPY

thats not cheap i know but you have other options like used https://www.ebay.com/itm/12426847175...mis&media=COPY

and theres the spline kits if you want to make custom langths or twist a shaft https://www.ebay.com/itm/13388040375...mis&media=COPY

and the coupler ends if you ever needed one https://www.ebay.com/itm/13291385092...mis&media=COPY

Hi ferp,

Quote
and stay away from anything stainless or aluminum
Unquote

Why no aluminum? My YiKong comes standard with aluminum driveshaft... the kids just lost half of it so i ordered a new set that is aluminum also ... Trying to learn more in this new hobby

€ 12,94 26%OFF | 2Pcs Metal Drive Shaft For Yikong YK4082 Absima CR1.8 Yucatan 1/8 RC Crawler Car Upgrade Parts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrrklQe

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

Hi ferp,

Quote
and stay away from anything stainless or aluminum
Unquote

Why no aluminum? My YiKong comes standard with aluminum driveshaft... the kids just lost half of it so i ordered a new set that is aluminum also ... Trying to learn more in this new hobby

€ 12,94 26%OFF | 2Pcs Metal Drive Shaft For Yikong YK4082 Absima CR1.8 Yucatan 1/8 RC Crawler Car Upgrade Parts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrrklQe

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

ive destroyed to many aluminum shafts

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

ive destroyed to many aluminum shafts

Ok got it, next time i will try different shafts if the kids loose them again

Ps pinion & gearbox shaft diameter vs driveshaft hole diameter,

The sellers only tell what RC it's for, not the hole diameter etc ... Is that common in the RC world ?

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

almost all the 1/10 rigs these days have 5mm output/input shafts
and most aftermarket parts are geared twards axial and there clones
axial and traxxas have a differance in pin location on the input/output shaft and that can cause a issue but can still be worked around if ya need to
the only time shaft size come in to play is with the minis and micros there not as standered as 1/10 scale

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

almost all the 1/10 rigs these days have 5mm output/input shafts
and most aftermarket parts are geared twards axial and there clones
axial and traxxas have a differance in pin location on the input/output shaft and that can cause a issue but can still be worked around if ya need to
the only time shaft size come in to play is with the minis and micros there not as standered as 1/10 scale

Thanks for explaining, yup my 1/8 scale has also 5 mm shafts so that's easy for next time ordering aftermarket parts

Do you guys make a "dent" hole in shafts so the grubs crew doesn't come out that easily? I could drill a 1 mm dent in my gearbox shaft & diff shaft ? and a bit of 222 locktite of course...

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by oldblue2010

I'm looking for suggestions on center (from trans to diffs) driveshafts for my SCX10 frame build- now is there any advantage to traditional youk (like the c-configuration) or the ball socket type yoke. No budget guy here so the MIP type shafts are out- any ideas? The aggle is pretty steep in my mind but it's pretty much a stock set up with a 4 link set up- Thanks in advance

I use Wild Boars everywhere pretty much, even on bigger builds. They've proven themselves plenty strong and very flexible as far as lengths and driveshaft angles go. If it's a mostly stock setup, the WB's should be fine.