Rod End Hitting Motor

[Death2Unicorns]

hey guys, been lurking forever and finally made an account and got a membership. I'm currently building A Gspeed v3 and ran into an issue. I'm using the Vader skid, hardcore links, and an axial 3 gear tranny. My issue is the lower front left rod end is hitting the motor housing and not allowing it to sit properly. if I have it positioned properly for mounting it pushes the motor up quite a bit. Just wondering if anyone has ran into this problem before and if they had a solution. Was wondering if I should just make a transmission shim/riser. I'll add pictures to better understand what's going on. Thanks!

[twade984]

A shim or spacer for the trans would probably be the easiest solution

Just out of curiosity, what pinion and spur are you using?


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[Death2Unicorns]

Ok thanks! I'll try that. Think I got a few different thickness sheets of aluminum and steel I could cut one out of. Also got some sheets of kydex I could try. Right now I'm running the stock 56T spur and a 13T pinion. I had a 15T pinion on but swapped it to see if I'd get a little more clearence with the motor.

[DRED805]

I ran into the same problem when I put a long ass motor in my wraith. Just made a little shim out of scrap aluminum to space it up a bit.

[Death2Unicorns]

Appreciate the help guys! Ended up making a 1.5mm shim and that gave me more than enough clearance.

[Death2Unicorns]

Well my 1.5mm spacer was enough to clear the motor but not enough to allow for any suspension flex. I get like 15% of shock travel before the front left lower link hits the motor. So I'm back to square one. Not sure if I should just make a much taller tranny spacer or what. If I go much higher my incision driveshafts are gonna separate lol. Also contemplating just getting a Holmes stubby motor or a revolver. Another thought I had was getting some of the angled rod end and have it angled down so the link sits lower. But then the rod end and link are gonna be lower than the bottom of my skid plate. Any ideas or advice would be highly appreciated!!! I'll attach some pics. One is a crappy pic of the link hitting the motor and the other is showing the minuscule amount of suspension travel I get when the link hits. Thanks.

[bgredjeep]

My first step would to do some test fitting to see how much room you need for the suspension to fully clear and cycle. Until you know how much space you need it's just a guessing game.

If you are concerned about raising the trans, you could try a wedge spacer to raise the motor without going any higher on your output.

[MOguy]

Why lift the motor and trans and raise your CG? I know it is not much.

If you used a straight upper susp link would it clear?

[twade984]

Have you considered rotating the skid and trans, so the motor faces the other direction?

Otherwise you can mount the upper link to the other side, but looks like you may still have contact with the lower link.


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[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by MOguy

Why lift the motor and trans and raise your CG? I know it is not much.

If you used a straight upper susp link would it clear?

Ideally I don't want to raise the motor and trans but I wasn't sure what other options I had. The upper link clears it just fine it's just the lower link that hits. Also before I even had the axles mounted the motor was hitting just the rod end itself. There's just barely any clearance between the motor case and the skid plate.

[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by twade984

Have you considered rotating the skid and trans, so the motor faces the other direction?

Otherwise you can mount the upper link to the other side, but looks like you may still have contact with the lower link.


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I was thinking of flipping the skid and tranny but Im pretty sure the motor would hit the rear upper links and mounting hardware. But yea the upper link doesn't interfere, just the lower link.

This is my first "custom" build, as in not an out of the box kit. So I'm not super savvy on any tricks and things to look out for. But after assembling the chassis and getting to where I just need to swap my electronics over this is the only issue I've ran into. It seems weird I couldn't really find anyone else having this issue. It seems the majority of gspeed v3 builds I see are running high clearance links. Guess maybe all the other builds are just using different transmissions, motors, or motor mounts and I'm one of the few running the stock tranny. Only reason I used the stock 3 gear is I had just put in vanquish gears and top shaft.

[B-MOW71]

First of all, welcome to RCC and becoming a member.

On my GSpeed V3 build, I am running a VP 3-gear trans and Intheworks high clearance links and I do not have this problem. I am using the stock VS4-10 trans shim under the trans to lift up the trans.

I'll try to get some pics of mine when I get home from work today to show you my setup.

For now if you want to see how my G-rig went together, check it out here: B-MOW's GSPEED TGH-V3 LCG Chassis Build

[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

First of all, welcome to RCC and becoming a member.

On my GSpeed V3 build, I am running a VP 3-gear trans and Intheworks high clearance links and I do not have this problem. I am using the stock VS4-10 trans shim under the trans to lift up the trans.

I'll try to get some pics of mine when I get home from work today to show you my setup.

For now if you want to see how my G-rig went together, check it out here: B-MOW's GSPEED TGH-V3 LCG Chassis Build

Thanks for the welcome I appreciate it! Ok so you have a very similar setup than. You just got the better version of the transmission and in the works links instead of hardcore rc links. So it seems like I just might have too thin of a trans shim. Do you know the thickness of the vanquish shim your using? I can look it up and see if I can figure it out too. Some pics would be awesome! I'd be very grateful. I'll definitely check out your build. I may have actually glanced at it before because I recognize seeing your name lol

[twade984]

Definitely nothing wrong with using that transmission. I set up two v3 chassis using the enduro trans, but I believe it sits higher off the skid plate than the axial 3 gear, so likely why I didn’t run into this issue.

These are fun projects, but there are so many variables depending on parts used, that it can take some time to iron everything out.

Also, a lot of people use stubby length motors I feel like, so that helps certain clearance issues.


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[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by twade984

Definitely nothing wrong with using that transmission. I set up two v3 chassis using the enduro trans, but I believe it sits higher off the skid plate than the axial 3 gear, so likely why I didn’t run into this issue.

These are fun projects, but there are so many variables depending on parts used, that it can take some time to iron everything out.

Also, a lot of people use stubby length motors I feel like, so that helps certain clearance issues.


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Yea the only other trans I have is the big ass kit trans, and I like the original 3 gear better. I've heard good things about those stealth trans.

Yea I wanted something to tinker with more. The building for me is a lot of the fun. I think I have just as much fun working on them as I do driving them lol.

Yea I had this older puller pro on hand so figured I'd try it. But it is a pretty big motor. I was debating on getting a different motor and ESC since this motor is 3500kv and the ESC is an older HH trail master BLE pro. I guess if I can't make this motor work I'll look into some different electronics.

[B-MOW71]

Ok, the VP stock plastic trans shim is just under 3mm at 2.97mm according to my cheapy calipers.

Kinda hard to get good pics, so here’s what I was able to get. All links clear at full compression. Note that my front top link is on the driveshaft/passenger side.













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[DRED805]

I'd have a hard time spending $38 on a skid, but I think this would solve your problem... tilts the trans 6* back (opposite the angle of the gspeed rails), which would lift the motor off that front link.

https://www.fishscrawlerparts.com/st...Chassis.html#/

[boldfin]

You'll probably still need to run your existing trans spacer but using offset rod ends on the skid side of the upper links should give you some additional clearance.

[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Ok, the VP stock plastic trans shim is just under 3mm at 2.97mm according to my cheapy calipers.

Kinda hard to get good pics, so here’s what I was able to get. All links clear at full compression. Note that my front top link is on the driveshaft/passenger side.













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Thank you! That helps a lot! Ok so your spacer is double the thickness of what I'm currently using. I guess I'll make a 3mm spacer and swap the upper link the the other side and see how that fares. It also looks like my motor sticks out a little farther than yours. Dang giant motor.

[Death2Unicorns]

Originally Posted by DRED805

I'd have a hard time spending $38 on a skid, but I think this would solve your problem... tilts the trans 6* back (opposite the angle of the gspeed rails), which would lift the motor off that front link.

https://www.fishscrawlerparts.com/st...Chassis.html#/

That would definitely give me the clearance I need! If I can't get clearence with a thicker shim I may look into that skid. Guess it's cheaper than buying a smaller new motor lol. Appreciate the link!