How come wheel hexes are this difficult?

[Cuiken]

I've been building up a pre-runner type rig from an Element Enduro Trailrunner. Separate thread on this below:

Another enduro pre-runner (idea)

In order to get a wheels to properly 'fit' the body I bought some hex hub adapters slightly wider than the stock Enduro ones to add about 4mm at each wheel. You know the sort of thing:



As has been the case when I've bought these before, the hub extender has a stepped ~7mm center hole which I have learned is only compatible with Axial Hexes (who thought that was a great standard?).





But, naturally, the Axial hex doesn't fit on the element Enduro axles without drilling the center hole out to 5mm for about 75% of it's depth.

So, that's all done and the hub extenders are mounted on the wheels and the hexes now fit the axles.

My only question is this: Does it need to be this hard to widen a truck by ~4mm? Am I using the wrong parts?

I realise I could just buy some 8mm wide wheel hexes (3mm wider than stock) but when I use those I don't have enough axle remaining to properly attach the wheel nut.

The single advantage of the hub adaptor I used is that it doesn't add to the total thickness of hex+wheel that the axle has to pass through.

Is there a better way?

[Goro Majima]

Seems the best way is the wheel hub route. If you don't want the Vanquish ones, there's the China ones available that are just as good. Not a fan of those Axial wheel hexes.

[Cuiken]

Which wheel hubs do you mean? Could you post an example?

These vanquish ones for example look exactly the same as those I picture:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185293069...BoCAa4QAvD_BwE

Looking at the picture, they also require the axial style hexes:

[Goro Majima]

The hub adapter you're referring to, I just called it a wheel hub instead (since it mounts to the wheel).

[Cuiken]

Ahhh, okay. So you're saying I'm already using the best method you know of and that the axial hexes are just a necessary evil?

Cheers.

[Oh How Original]

VP hexes are the best.

https://www.vanquishproducts.com/12m...lear-anodized/

[ferp420]

you dont need axial hexes who ever told you that shouldent have any old hex will do that little step dosent do anything the only axial hexes ive ever used came stock on my first axial and they went out the window a few days after i got the rig it really dosent matter once the nut is tight the hex centers the wheel all the nut dose is keep it tight to the hex

you do need the nuts with the flange though the traxxass serated wheel nuts are the best and there in almost every hobby shop ever invented

its like the differance between hub centric or lug centric wheels on a 1:1 it just dosent matter

[Cuiken]

I did try using the hub adapters on my Redcat Wendigo without the axial hexes (using large serated nuts) and they kept working loose (like every couple of minutes). I tried threadlock, double nuts, but nothing worked.

I then bought a set of the axial hexes and they've never come loose since. I think the reduction in 'play' means they don't work loose the same way. I'm not saying the axial design is great, it just fits the hub adapters.

I guess my issue may have been because the Wendigo is fairly high speed rig but I think the axial hexes are the best mechanical solution for the hub adapters listed in this thread.

Just weird that all the hub adapters seem to feature this design (even the vanquish ones) rather than a socket for a vanilla hex design.

[Goro Majima]

Originally Posted by Cuiken

I did try using the hub adapters on my Redcat Wendigo without the axial hexes (using large serated nuts) and they kept working loose (like every couple of minutes). I tried threadlock, double nuts, but nothing worked.



I then bought a set of the axial hexes and they've never come loose since. I think the reduction in 'play' means they don't work loose the same way. I'm not saying the axial design is great, it just fits the hub adapters.



I guess my issue may have been because the Wendigo is fairly high speed rig but I think the axial hexes are the best mechanical solution for the hub adapters listed in this thread.



Just weird that all the hub adapters seem to feature this design (even the vanquish ones) rather than a socket for a vanilla hex design.

Were the nuts you used have a nylon insert as well?

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Goro Majima

Were the nuts you used have a nylon insert as well?

And are they new? These are technically a 1 time use item, not that you should throw them away just feel it as you tighten it, does it feel easy to thread on or is there some resistance like when new? You'll feel when these lose their holding power, there will be very little resistance.



I've never had an issue with wheels coming loose when using a non stepped hex with a stepped hub but you are probably running a higher wheelspeed than typical.

[TheLetterJ]

If you've got access to a 3d printer, there are SLW hub spacers (just a disc with a big center hole and the 6 lug holes) of different thickness' for minor adjustments, look here: Need help finding an stl file for slw hub spacer Some vendors also sell thin brake rotors (non-weighted) like these: https://supershafty.com/products/sup...29405001711710 that work well for the same purpose.

[durok]

SSD sells these hub plugs to help with this issue:

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00405.htm

and these for TRX-4:

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00406.htm

[Cuiken]

Originally Posted by durok

SSD sells these hub plugs to help with this issue:

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00405.htm

and these for TRX-4:

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00406.htm

Yes! that's the solution I'm looking for. So I need a set of these for a set of hub adapters but I can use any hexes I like after that.

Awesome, thanks.

[Cuiken]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

And are they new? These are technically a 1 time use item, not that you should throw them away just feel it as you tighten it, does it feel easy to thread on or is there some resistance like when new? You'll feel when these lose their holding power, there will be very little resistance.



I've never had an issue with wheels coming loose when using a non stepped hex with a stepped hub but you are probably running a higher wheelspeed than typical.

Yes, proper nyloc flanged nuts and all new. Like I say, I even double up with additional nyloc nuts behind them but it didn't help.

I think it probably was the wheelspeed and power that caused the issue. This might not happen on a proper crawler. The Wendigo has 2.2" wheels, weighs a ton and I had a very powerful motor in it. So, I think it required better mechanical contact to minimise 'play' between the wheel and hex that ultimately served to unscrew the nut.

Either way, I've been left with a paranoia about it

[ferp420]

i had the same problem with my axial wraith using axial hexes
the reason this is hapening is the slot the pin sits in is bigger than the pin and the hex it self is spinning on the shaft just enuff to loosen the nuts it has nothing to do with the hub or the nuts your running redcat hexes are the worst and there not really big enuff to begain with and as you run the rig the slop will hog out the pin slot even more making the problem worse
how do you fix this
i use tin foil to fill the extra gaps in the hex so its almost a press on fit works for most crawlers
high power you want really good clamping hexes and do the pin hole fix and brand new traxxassss serated nuts then use the extra nuts to double nut and dont forget lots of red loctight
that has solved all my wheel loosening issues with any brand and any hub or wheel
the axial pin drive hubs were the worst

[MOguy]

Just stick with what ever hub?hex is on the axle stock and then get either SSD or Vanquish extension (hubs?hexs) to mount to your wheels. They come in various sizes and weights.