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Thread: Practice build before I build a real crawler.

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Old 02-28-2005, 09:21 PM   #1
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Smile Practice build before I build a real crawler.

One day I got it in my head that I wanted to try to build a 4link crawler. I used what I had laying around as a sort of practice run at building one. This is what I've come up with.







Like I said this is just a practice build just to see if I could do it before I sunk a good deal of money into something I wouldn't get into. It's using stampede/rustler transmissions just to keep it simple and cheap. The rear is locked and I'm looking for some mag mayhems or even lathe motors. Before you ask, the stampede tub chassis is staying so that people will know what it used to be.

Clodbuster tires and adapters are in the mail. But other than the tires, what can I do to make this a better crawler? This truck will be primarily a basher. I'm not gona beat it to heck but it won't see too much more action than climbing over crap around my house and scaring my dog. Later I intend to build something a little more cappable using a clod or txt-1.
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:53 PM   #2
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well you need yo lower the batteries, (on to the front upper links or somthin), and electronis. get rid of the stupid stampeade chassis. who cares if someone doesnt know what the truck used to be? it makes it way top heavy, and ugly.
the rest looks good though.
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Old 02-28-2005, 10:04 PM   #3
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Man, absolutely nobody likes that tub. I do smell what you're stepping in though. I'll probably end up getting rid of it and just mount a stock stamped body on it.

If I move the battery to the front upper links like you say, wouldn't that leave the back to light for traction? I'm new to this crawling stuff, just asking questions.
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Old 03-01-2005, 06:06 AM   #4
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no since your weight shifts to the back when climbing something
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:35 AM   #5
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looks good besides the pede chassis
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:43 AM   #6
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I guess I'll build another pede with that chassis.

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Old 03-01-2005, 12:06 PM   #7
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O K
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:07 PM   #8
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lol

You need to lower the suspension drastically. You want the links as flat as possible. Your shocks are at too much of an angle. You need to remount them.

Can you get a better pic of the upper links? Why are they so much smaller than the lowers? Are they triangulated?

You need to mount the lower links above the arms, not below. You will get those caught on rocks in a hurry they way they are.

Last edited by AdamF; 03-01-2005 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamF
lol

You need to lower the suspension drastically. You want the links as flat as possible. Your shocks are at too much of an angle. You need to remount them.

Can you get a better pic of the upper links? Why are they so much smaller than the lowers? Are they triangulated?

You need to mount the lower links above the arms, not below. You will get those caught on rocks in a hurry they way they are.
The angle the picture is taken at makes it look really tall. Look further up the page to one of the pics with the pede chassis still on.

The top links are just turnbuckles, that's why they are smaller. I made the lower arms first and found out that those turbuckles were the perfect length. They are not triangulated yet, I can't seem to get them mounted sturdy enough to be connected to a common point on the trans case.

Thanks for the tips guys, gona work on moving the bottom links above the arms.
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:20 PM   #10
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Definately get a "A+" for originallity.... I like your thought process. Take a bunch of parts and see what you come up with... That's how a lot fo my creations start...

I would say definately lower the suspension to get your Center of Gravity down. Not so top heavy. The battery looks good on the upper front links. Glad you removed the Pede tub. The Lower links do need to be moved above the A-Arms OR make skid plates to protect them over the rocks but it would be better to move them.... But if you have no other options a skid plate should keep them from getting smashed or caught on the terrain but will reduce your clearace... But the Clod tires and wheels will defiantely help you with clearance... Overall should be a fun basher and with a little refinment as you drive it a few times and figure out what adjustments you need, it might turn out to be a nice creation for you. Sometimes some of the most off the wall creations are some of the most functional.
have Fun
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamF
lol Your shocks are at too much of an angle. You need to remount them..
That's the pot callin the kettle black. if you would remount yours also, you wouldn't need limiting straps

with your shocks laying like you do JM, they are basically useless. you will get 90+ degress of flex possibly and that's not good unless your cruisin it at the mall.they also really don't provide any dampening like that. the suspension would be just kinda flopping in the wind

as for your links, put the lowers up on top of the arms so you won't be dragging them. as for the tops, the way you are using the pede trannies( like a clod) it really doesn't matter that your tops are shorter. you try to have them the same length though. with having shorter tops, it would change your pinion angle(if you had a driveshaft) but since you don't, it will just tilt the motor towards the ground instead
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Old 03-01-2005, 04:35 PM   #12
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first i wouldnt lower it to much until you get your clod tires on there so you will have a better idea where it will sit before you start changing things to much.

second veiw the link below. i would cut the chassis at the dotted yellow line. this will lower your cog down and let you lower the body more. the white line are rail that run off the top of the chassis and give you new mounting locations for your shocks. and the red lines are your shocks.

http://tinypic.com/view.html?pic=1zf094
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Old 03-01-2005, 06:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedCreations
That's the pot callin the kettle black. if you would remount yours also, you wouldn't need limiting straps

Thanks for the concern, but I have coil springs at all 4 corners which aid in dampening
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Old 03-01-2005, 07:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamF
Thanks for the concern, but I have coil springs at all 4 corners which aid in dampening

i didn't say anything about your dampening i said your limiting straps
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Old 03-03-2005, 03:08 PM   #15
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That looks better. :grin:



The tires and adapters came in today and I was happier than a pig in stink. I didn't run it yet since I was in the middle of moving the shocks further down the link when the mailman rang the doorbell.
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:40 PM   #16
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What front uprights & hubs are you using?

I B..
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:42 PM   #17
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also who makes the adapters you have?

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Old 03-03-2005, 09:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I B RACIN
What front uprights & hubs are you using?

I B..
Uprights and hubs? I'm using hpi parts for my steering. IIRC the part # is hpi A461 for the carriers and castor block. They are on the same tree.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I B RACIN
also who makes the adapters you have?

I B..
I'm not sure about the make I bought them off ebay from someone.

Last edited by jm8881; 03-03-2005 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:12 PM   #19
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starting to look like a real crawler know; with the lower cog and clod tires. what type of body are you planing useing on it?

should be intresting how it compares to the clod, and to see if the stampede axles work.

maybe you could mount the esc on the under side of the plat its mounted on know?

Last edited by mike; 03-03-2005 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:16 PM   #20
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LIKE RS4 Front ?
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