05-25-2007, 03:40 PM | #81 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
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05-25-2007, 04:22 PM | #82 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN
Posts: 5,076
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I think all suspensions suck.. j/k, i have rigs with conventional suspensions, torsion stick rigs, and i'am currently waiting on a tuber to try a droop suspension set up, and this thread has been very helpful, thanks to all involved |
05-25-2007, 04:31 PM | #83 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NEWPORT NEWS
Posts: 48
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Interesting reading and a lot of good info. I'm new to this RC Crawling. However, I have built a few coilover 1:1 rigs/buggies and work on them all the time. I find myself trying to compare RC rigs to 1:1 rigs but as stated earlier, you can't do it (unless you make the RC rigs really heavy). Because the weight isn't to scale, you are able to do some really cool stuff (like using springs to "suck" up on the shocks..). Can't do that in the real world.. or can you? Personally, I built my 1:1 buggy on the bumpstops. I use 14" travel coilovers up front and 16"ers in the rear. I build the rig with no springs and then I install springs to get about 3-4 inches of shock stickout. That's only to make it a bareable ride. Otherwise, you'd knock your teeth out on every bump. The rest of the 10 and 12 inches of shock travel is set up for droop. This allows a few advantages (many of which have already been covered here). I already built in 24" of ground clearance to my tranny skid but with the droop chassis, if I high center, the axles frequently droop enough that a tire or two can still pull my forward. Of course, it helps that I use UHMW self-oiling plastic for my skid.. stuff slides like ice on the rocks. I have a buddy who's rig rides on similar shocks but it's almost all stickout (uptravel). He isn't nearly as stable in the twisty stuff. Another thing that I've incorporated (and it was mentioned earlier in this thread) and it's worth its weight in gold.. are winches front and rear that suck up the suspension. When my nose is skyhigh and I'm teetering on a rear endo, I suck up the front winch till I hit the bumpstops. If I'm going to sidehill a long stretch, I suck down both winches almost to the bumpstops to keep from unloading. However, if I'm dropping over a ledge (up to about 6ft so far), I leave the rear free to droop. Some would think that leaves the rear free to unload and cause a front endo. However, in real life, it allows the back tires to drag along on the rocks to help control the speed. As I build my TXT tuber, I plan on using a similar setup (minus the winches). I'll use some long travel shocks (Savage), set them up with a little stickout probably using soft springs. I wish they made a pistol grip 4 or 5 channel radio that would allow a servo to be setup as a winch to suck down the suspension. It would be fun to experiment with a front suspension winch... a rear suspension winch.. and a single winch that sucks both suspensions down to the bumpstops to stop unloading. In effect, the light springs inside the shocks pulling up on the shock rod are already doing this.. I'd just like to do a conventional suspension and have manual control over it. Edit: As for the suspension changing wheelbase while drooping. This can be minimized by running links that are parallel to the ground or close to it. The steeper the link angle from the axle up to the frame, the worse the axles are going to "swing" toward the center of the vehicle. Last edited by BESRK; 05-25-2007 at 04:37 PM. |
05-25-2007, 06:01 PM | #84 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
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I'm back any more questions?
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05-25-2007, 06:45 PM | #85 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2005 Location: omaha
Posts: 858
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I found that a 50/50 droop to sprung setup works extremely well for me. I run a .55 inch internal spring under the piston and a Losi 2.75 inch external spring at each corner. At ride hight the shock is at half droop with 2 springs holding it there. I get the advantage of a droop setup with the mechanical traction of a suspended rig. Ride hight at rest is 2.75 inches with a max belly clearance of 3.20 inches. All of that being said, droop or sprung, nothing means a hill of bean if the link geometry is off. Get the squat/anti-squat right and almost any rig will crawl fairly well. |
05-25-2007, 06:49 PM | #86 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
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05-25-2007, 06:57 PM | #87 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2005 Location: omaha
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I have had the same basic design for about 20 months now, lots of tweaking to get the geometry right. I have crawled against a lot of different people and only felt out-classed by Dezfan. I think it is best to find a design that works for your terrain and your driving style. After that, drive the day lights out of it and do the old "one change at a time" method to improving the performance.
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05-25-2007, 08:58 PM | #88 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
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For the weight being scale, I think you can build a rig to scale weight. Think of a block of Steel 10"x10"x10", then think of the 1/10th scale block that is 1"x1"x1". In terms of volume, the 10" cube will have 1000 times the amount of steel and weigh 1000 times more. Same for a crawler. A 5lb 1/10th scale crawler is 5000lbs scale weight. Totally in line with a real vehicle.
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05-26-2007, 12:49 AM | #89 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS
Posts: 202
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So in a droop set up you would rather have your suspension move slower (thicker shock oil)? Or do you want a thinner oil, making youe suspention faster?
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05-26-2007, 01:13 AM | #90 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Clovis
Posts: 158
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Ive been working on a drooper for a couple of months now and here is what i have seen. Pros Lower COG Axles drop down when hung up Little body roll on sidehills Great for climbing steep inclines Cons Torque twist in the back left Takes a lot of tuning Im trying to stay open minded, but i just cant think of many cons. I have been very happy with my suspension setup. It just takes a lot of tuning sense you cant buy shocks setup for droop. | |
05-26-2007, 01:50 AM | #91 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
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05-26-2007, 02:19 AM | #92 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Clovis
Posts: 158
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As for it being better in other areas, i guess its personal preference. | |
05-26-2007, 02:59 AM | #93 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
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05-26-2007, 03:13 AM | #94 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: sweden
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a little bit off topic..can u run a hustler without the droop setup?
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05-26-2007, 03:13 AM | #95 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Clovis
Posts: 158
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I think the only way that you will understand droop is to try it. If you dont like it change back to sprung. | |
05-26-2007, 03:56 AM | #96 | |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
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That is a exact replica of the setup I have been running on for a while now. I ran droop and hated it, didn't like the chassis raising and throwing the COG off. I ran coils and got by for a while. After changing over to 50/50 it was like a totally different truck I am now able to take lines that were impossible in the past. Another advantage of 50/50 is you have the small loose spot, that allows for low pressure suspension articulation. Works like a progressive spring. | |
05-26-2007, 06:16 AM | #97 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
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| If the rear end is trying to walk under the truck your links need some mojor changes.
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05-26-2007, 07:26 AM | #98 | |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NEWPORT NEWS
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05-26-2007, 07:33 AM | #99 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
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I think weight is cubed if I remember right. Your dealing with mass and volume not just size. | |
05-26-2007, 09:05 AM | #100 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
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Read my post again and think about it. There is more than one dimension that is shrunk by 1/10th. The scale Chino built rigs I saw moved just like the real thing, it was cool to watch. |
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