|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
09-05-2007, 02:45 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Steubenville
Posts: 249
| Can you use JB weld to construct a tube frame?
Not to sound too hillbilly here, but I was curious... has anyone ever tried making an aluminum tube frame using JB weld at the unions to connect the pieces? JB weld is some strong stuff... if you did it right, it might work. For those who can't weld or braze aluminum... I think using brakeline isn't a good idea... isn't it too soft? Too soft to weld? Sounds like it wound bend really easy. |
Sponsored Links | |
09-05-2007, 02:49 PM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LaSalle
Posts: 819
|
Well first off i dont think jb weld would hold up to all the beatings that crawlers go through. second brake line is fairly soft as a 5' rod but it gets to be VERY strong after its brazed or welded into a frame...some guys i know have drove off 10-15' ledges landing on just the tube frames and there was minimal damage.
|
09-05-2007, 02:52 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Easthampton
Posts: 747
|
Yes brake line is soft, but if you add the proper bracing to it, it can be very strong. I can stand on all my frames whether brazed or MIG welded together.
|
09-05-2007, 02:55 PM | #4 |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
|
I once used 3/16" aluminum tube to build a roll bar. I threaded 3mm all-thread into the ends of the rear down bars. I then drilled holes in the main hoop for these "pins" to sit in at each joint. I filled the holes with JB weld and spread it around the joint. It actually lasted longer than I thought and I think if you used 1/4" thick wall tube or solid 3/16" it might work pretty good. If you didn't pin the joints and just used JB, I don't think it'd be much good for more than a shelf queen. |
09-05-2007, 03:09 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: portland
Posts: 584
|
I was bored one rainy Oregon day and started hacking up a bunch of extra plastic clothes hangers I had in my closet. The initial idea was to make a mock up of what I want my (steel) tube frame to look like. I just used hot glue and started gluing and bracing. by the time I was done, I had a sweet lookin mock up, then I wasn't paying attention and stepped on it. nothing. didn't brake or crack or anything. So I picked it up and squeezed it with all my might and still couldn't tear it apart. I was slamming it against a concrete wall, everything I could think of. It was immensely tough If you brace it just right. I had the slight thought of using it as a cage, but I came to my senses and realized how ghetto that is. |
09-05-2007, 04:48 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Steubenville
Posts: 249
|
83 Chevy guy, how can you MIG break line without burning holes in it like crazy? Obviously lowest setting, but thats gotta be hard to do! |
09-05-2007, 04:52 PM | #7 | |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
| Quote:
It takes practice but once you get the hang of it it's really pretty easy. I don't use the lowest setting on mine either. I like it set hot. | |
09-05-2007, 05:14 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Salem
Posts: 245
|
I was bored one day at work and built a tube chassis with 1/16th" steel filler rod for tig welding. I tig welded it all together and when I was done I was able to stand on it. I am 220 lbs. This was just .060 welding wire not tube which is stronger then wire. |
09-05-2007, 05:17 PM | #9 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Easthampton
Posts: 747
| Quote:
Last edited by '83 chevy; 09-05-2007 at 05:33 PM. | |
09-06-2007, 07:03 AM | #10 | ||||
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
| Quote:
Quote:
Anybody ever seen the old-school JB counter displays? With the old Coke bottle with stuff stuck all over it? Try to break any of that stuff off. (without going totally bananas on it of course) If you pinned the joints like Grizzly is talking about, my bet would be that you'd end up with a workable chassis. Provided your design was properly braced. Tube length, diameter, wall thickness, and geometry plays a very important role, materials and methods aside. Quote:
Quote:
Now you guys have got me to thinking again - I already have everything on hand to try this. Hmmmm..... Last edited by Big Mike; 09-06-2007 at 07:15 AM. | ||||
09-06-2007, 03:00 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Orange City
Posts: 23
|
I have seen radiators on 1:1's JB Welded on that held up to Florida mud bashings...It is pretty strong stuff.
|
09-06-2007, 04:16 PM | #12 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Big Island
Posts: 7
| Quote:
Did you sand that after welding? That is a very good looking chassis. I just hope mine comes out that clean. | |
09-06-2007, 04:28 PM | #13 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Grand Forks
Posts: 81
|
there are kits available on the internet for brazing/soldering aluminum together. some rather low temp stuff available, as well as the high temp stuff. http://tinmantech.chainreactionweb.c...71c983b37e7478 http://durafix.com/index.html#order http://www.muggyweld.com/pricelist.html http://www.keep-it-kool.com/braze/braze_1.html http://www.keep-it-kool.com/braze/braze_1.html i was really looking into this process a while back. some pretty decent looking products there. the second link can be done with a common propane torch. rash |
09-06-2007, 07:35 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Steubenville
Posts: 249
|
Now.... to make the bends in this tube and brake line material, do you need a parts bender? Or are you guys doing this with the old thumb method?
|
09-07-2007, 07:37 AM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
|
You'll definitely need to invest 20-30 bucks in a tubing bender to get clean, kink-free bends. Especially if you are looking for exact radiuses. (Radii? how do you pluralize that?) Any good auto parts place should be able to hook you up. Or if you're savvy about it you can create your own bending forms out of wood blocks. I'd go with a tubing bender myself, just for ease of use and versatilty... |
09-07-2007, 10:15 AM | #16 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK
Posts: 162
|
do you think if the design of a 1:1 land rover 90 hard top external cage would be strong enough in brass (soldered joints)?? (with two internal diagonals too
|
09-07-2007, 05:46 PM | #17 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Easthampton
Posts: 747
| Quote:
And on the topic of benders, most of that frame was built using coiled brake line and hand formed bends. I used a bender on the shock hoops and some other things. | |
09-07-2007, 07:04 PM | #18 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Big Island
Posts: 7
| Quote:
Is the base tubing square? If so what size? And do you guys notch (Fish Eye) the tubing? If so what do you use to do the notching? Sorry for so many questions I'm just trying to learn. : ) Thanks in advance Last edited by K.Gibson; 09-07-2007 at 07:07 PM. | |
09-07-2007, 08:02 PM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Easthampton
Posts: 747
| The base tube is 1/2" square steel tubing. I did fish mount the tubing. I use a 1/4" end mill and the lathe. But a chainsaw file works well too.
|
09-08-2007, 12:30 PM | #20 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Hague (the Netherlands)
Posts: 46
| JB Weld?
sure no problem. I don't know exactly what JB weld is, i live in holland, and we don't have it here. what i used to stick together a aluminium 'broken in half' buggy chassis is 2 component metal glue. (epoxy based) mix well, apply, clamp and heat up in the oven for ten minutes a 200 degrees celcius (pizza temp.) worked fine for me |
| |