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12-20-2007, 01:25 AM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
| building the ULTIMATE links
I have had my clod based super for about a year now, an seeing as it was a used rig when I got it from H3RESQ, several of the links were beginning to get bent in various places. I got the silly idea in my head to build an unbendable super link, so I stopped by my local hobby shop to day and here is what I figured out... first, the links that were on it were just aluminum tubes with threads in them to accept about an inch of all thread going into the traxxas rod end. First of my problems was I didnt like the idea of tapping out a tube to accept all thread rod, too much work. I decided to go with a simple strong setup cosisting of carbon fiber tube, all thread inside of it, and an aluminum tube outside. |
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12-20-2007, 01:28 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
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the first step is to cut the aluminum tube to size, simply line it up with the link you are replacing and make your mark to cut it, use a razor knife to make a nice score around the pipe and you can simply break it apart.
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12-20-2007, 01:31 AM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
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Next cut a piece of carbon tube to the same length as the pipe. When cutting carbon fiber, it is best to cover the area that you are cutting with masking tape to prevent it from splintering. Use a high speed cutting wheel or a hack saw to cut the tube.
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12-20-2007, 01:38 AM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
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Then insert your all thread rod into the carbon fiber and cut it so that there is about 7/16 of an inch on each side sticking out of the tube and cut away. then place a washer on each end and screw on the rod ends. Thats it! the aluminum rod is there to protect the carbon fiber, and carbon does not exactly slide over rocks well. You could further increase the strength of the end of the rods by fileing down the rod ends so that they fit snugly in the tubes, and then use longer tubes, but that is more work than I care to do. since carbon fiber rods do not bend, and they take a tremendous amount of force to break, these links are as close to unbendable as you can get! Last edited by mysharona; 12-20-2007 at 09:52 AM. |
12-20-2007, 05:08 AM | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Germany
Posts: 68
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very good idea! excellent work |
12-20-2007, 06:32 AM | #6 |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
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I like using 1/4" acetal for my steering links. Reason being, they are plenty strong, but give a bit when the rods hit a rock. This keeps other things from taking the impact like the servo horn or knuckles. Kind of a crumple zone. Good idea for the suspension links though |
12-20-2007, 06:37 AM | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lexington, S.C.
Posts: 39
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When cutting the Carbon Fiber, try not to breath the dust. It's bad stuff.
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12-20-2007, 08:47 AM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: hartford
Posts: 121
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do you have product numbers and sizes you use and where you got it also which ends do you use thanks nice job looks quick and easy
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12-20-2007, 09:51 AM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
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Traxxas T-maxx rod ends part# 1942 k&s tubing part # 1113 1/4" Midwest Carbon fiber tubing, part #5723 .196" od x.121 id Dubro 4-40 all thread dubro 4-40 washers. The important thing is that you want the all tread to fit in the carbon tube nicely, not too snug, but not excessive play. the aluminum tube can have a fair amount of play as it is there for protection. All of this is available from your local hobby store, but, in the unfortunate event that you do not have one, www.towerhobbies.com the links are very quick and easy, by the time I got to the second one, it took me about five minutes to comleat it, if that. you could also use colored arrow shaft to give your truck that extra attitude . |
12-20-2007, 10:08 AM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Home of the ORIGINAL Terminator chassis
Posts: 1,252
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If you're making unbreakable links, I wouldn't suggest those Traxxas #1942 rod ends. You may not break the link, but you'll shear off the #4-40 thread and/or the rod end if you hit something close to it. The ultimate rod ends are the metal ones that some places sell, but the Dubro Monster Duty rod ends are extremely beefy as well. We've never had one break to date! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGWE4&P=7 |
12-20-2007, 10:23 AM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: toledo area
Posts: 71
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I like the idea. I do agree with stepping up to 6-32 the dubro monsters are good and there are LOSI HD rod ends that accept 6-32 also they come on the 8ight I will find a part # later and post it. they are what I use for rod ends I think your weak link will be the 4-40 rod ends. but I like the carbon fiber idea. Do you mind if I copy the idea? |
12-20-2007, 10:24 AM | #12 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: toledo area
Posts: 71
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Kyosho makes a 6.8mm ball and a offset ball end that works great too. They are a hockey stick style |
12-20-2007, 11:09 AM | #13 |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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Great write up!! The Traxxas 1942 rod ends will accept a 6-32 all thread. I've been using them for over 3 years with only a few failures. |
12-20-2007, 04:07 PM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Diego
Posts: 140
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This is why this is such a fun hobby, all the different ideas and ways to do the same thing. Some better than others. Another reason this forum is also very cool, a way to share all of these cool ideas and brain storm. The Gooch |
12-20-2007, 06:14 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tucson
Posts: 299
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Thanks for sharing the idea
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12-20-2007, 07:01 PM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 5,032
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my personal favorite is 4mm steel rod with 6mm OD stainless steel tubing sleeved over it. take revo ends and drill them out to some standard size just barely over 4mm, fill the hole with JB weld, and shove the 4mm rod into it and wipe off the excess jb weld. leave them over night and youve got damn near bombproof links.
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12-20-2007, 08:34 PM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2007 Location: lacey
Posts: 833
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I would have used 6-32, but they didn't have any in the shop and I didn't want to order anything and wait. now since these links work so well and it cost me all of about 10 bucks to do all my steering links, I will probably order some 6-32 all thread and some Carbon fiber tubing to match. If you can beef it up, BEEF it up! |
12-20-2007, 09:17 PM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: hartford
Posts: 121
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good thread nice work thanks for the parts info
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