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12-21-2007, 12:43 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
| Would this acetal tube be acceptable to make links with?
My links wll be relatively short 4"~5" with 8/32 allthread in the ends. This will be for a 2.2 with lipo so it will be pretty light. White acteal tube, 1/4"od, 1/8"id, white, Five feet $2.55 8627k51 http://www.mcmaster.com/ |
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12-21-2007, 12:49 PM | #2 |
20K Club Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 22,981
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I used 5/16" on my Gopher, 6-32 allthread with Jato rod ends. Delrin worked great for me, I don't mind having a little flex in the links. |
12-21-2007, 01:02 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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Yeah I have read that they flex a little. That is a not a issue for me. I have noticed that allot of people used 5/16" but I could not find it unless it was a solid rod. Acetal is pretty easy to work with but I don't think I will be able to get results I will like if I drill and tap by hand. I don't have a lathe. |
12-21-2007, 01:11 PM | #4 |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
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I just made some links up using the same size tube, but black. If you are worried about any flex, you can run a drill bit through the center to open it up a bit and then run the all thread all the way through end to end and then thread on your rod ends. Makes them a bit heavier, but they sure won't flex.
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12-21-2007, 01:43 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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Did you buy the tube online? Mcmaster only has white.
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12-21-2007, 01:56 PM | #6 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Spokane
Posts: 96
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McMaster has black, I just ordered 5 feet of it.
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12-21-2007, 01:59 PM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Spokane
Posts: 96
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Plastics This product matches all of your selections. Part Number: 8576K12 $0.61 per Ft. Material Acetal Acetal Material Delrin Backing Plain Back Shape Rods and Discs Rods and Discs Type Rod Length 5' Maximum Continuous Length 5' Diameter .3125" Diameter Tolerance +.002" Opaque Black Operating Temperature Range -40° to +185° F Performance Characteristic High Tensile Strength Tensile Strength 10,000 psi Impact Strength 2.3 ft.-lbs./in. Tolerance Standard Hardness Rockwell R: 120 Specifications Met Underwriters Laboratories (UL) UL Rating UL 94HB |
12-21-2007, 02:55 PM | #8 |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
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Yup, McMaster...that would be the stuff |
12-21-2007, 03:36 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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I'm going to have to make a jig to drill the holes consistant and perfect. Can't beat those prices. Last edited by _BEN_; 12-21-2007 at 03:43 PM. |
12-21-2007, 04:09 PM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 124
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I used solid on my Super and drilled 1" into the end. Then put a piece of allthread into the hole, and put my rod end on that.
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12-21-2007, 06:39 PM | #11 | |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
| Quote:
Remember, it's tube...not solid, so it's not as tough as you're thinking to get that drill bit through straight. You're following a hole that's already bored for you, you're just making it a bit larger. If you use a drill bit with a split point tip /\ instead of one of those "pilot tip" bits, it should follow right through. Only took me about 5 minutes to do all four of my lower links. | |
12-21-2007, 07:19 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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Yeah the tube is easy. But if I decide to use the wider .3125 (5/16) stock, that only comes as a solid rod. Unless I missed something. If you can visulize this. The jig to drill the rod is simple. Drill a hole through a small aluminum block. (The same drill bit size you will be using on the rod) The chase that hole with a 5/16 bit (the diameter of the rod) but only go half way through the block. To use it: Slide the block over the rod then drill through the hole on the other side. The block will keep the drill lined up with the rod. Make any sense? Think it will work? Not as good as a lathe but better than my shaky hands. |
12-21-2007, 07:34 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NH
Posts: 427
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ben thats what I did, except I'm using solid alum.for links and I made my jig out of a solid chunk of steel. My concern was that the drill may elongate the hole if in the jig if it were made from aluminum. I clamp the jig in my vise and drill away, works like a charm
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12-21-2007, 07:45 PM | #14 |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
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How do you keep the piece of rod from spinning when you're drilling? It's going to want to spin inside the jig unless it's clamped to the jig somehow...or you can try and hold it with your hand Yeah, the rod Mauromj posted above is solid 5/16", but McMaster also has the 1/4" tube in black. IMO, if you're running the all thread through the whole link length out each end, there's no need to step up to 5/16" unless it's for looks. The 1/4" will be more than strong enough with the thread through the center. Now if you are going to do it like Clemet mentioned above (which I have done numerous times), then you could step up to the 5/16" since there wouldn't be the added strength of the all thread running down the entire length. |
12-21-2007, 09:26 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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Yeah I have a baggie of 3/4" stainless allthread pieces so I will be just threading it into the ends. Ill figure out how to secure the rod in the jig when I build it. Probably just slit it in the bandsaw and then when I clamp it in a vice it will squeeze the rod. |
12-21-2007, 09:52 PM | #16 |
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
| I'd just get the solid and cut the threads. Delrin takes a thread SOOOOO easy it's pathetic. I don't even own a tap and cut threads in the stuff ALL the time. If I need a threaded hole that will take a 3mm bolt.....I drill a hole out with a 2.5mm drill. Then,using my cordless drill with the hex head tip in the chuck,screw the 3mm hex head bolt into the hole. Reverse the bolt out of the hole and walla....perfect threads.
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12-22-2007, 04:13 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NH
Posts: 427
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I just push the rod in the jig and hold it by pushing inward. I also don't try to hurry the drilling process. I start off with lite pressure to make sure the drill doesn't try to wonder, then slowly add pressure from the drill. Haven't had one spin in the jig yet.
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12-28-2007, 11:14 AM | #18 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Torrance, CA.
Posts: 282
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Just to follow up this post. I bought 8ft (two 4' pieces) of the black 5/16" acetal rod. To my door it cost less than $10 and it literally arrived the day I orderd it. lol If you would like to see the jig I described and to see if it will work. I will update my build post in the twin force section once I get the parts done. |
12-28-2007, 11:40 AM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: In Cali.
Posts: 4,109
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I make all my own links out of Acetal. It is really easy to work with and cheap. Just need to find a good inexpensive 100 pack or rod ends. Maybe someone needs to contact Traxxas and see about a bigger bulk pack. |
12-28-2007, 11:45 AM | #20 |
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ
Posts: 3,073
| You can find Revo ends on the Bay for like $6.50 per pack of 12, which is saving you about $2.50 per pack vs. most other online retailers. I even found one bay store that gave me a 10% discount when I bought 18 packs. Yes......I have a few Revo ends :-P |
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