| | #1 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: The other Crawler State
Posts: 1,254
| I know, everybody has their favorite and "clods rule" but what I want to know is which crawler is the tuffest. What I want to hear is what rig you have and what are it's weak points. I don't need to know about the little trucks. I have a TLT and I know how to break it. So guys what are you breaking and also what size tire and gearing are ya running on your rig when you broke it. |
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| | #2 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,923
| Quote:
Clod axle tubes are weak. I've seen them break on rollovers that weren't that severe. I know Twin Force axles are tough too, but I've never owned one. Last edited by BENDER; 05-20-2005 at 02:41 AM. | |
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| | #3 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: The Gay NorthWest
Posts: 505
| i got twin axles and ive had txt axles and i have clod axles.... ive never broken any txt axle parts... i had fried a set of txt tranny gears the twin axles i broke the little ear where i mount my lower links because it fell like 8 feet.... and the clods i have only broken the carriers.... where they connect to the steering links but that was because it fell off the same wall lol ryan |
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| | #4 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 905
| Clods do break, but if you carry an axle tube and a knuckle your covered for 94.9% of the possible problems. When I drove my shafty I felt I had to carry one of EVERYTHING. |
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| | #5 |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| I run an emaxx. I use no crappy plastic emaxx crap. i only use the diffs,steering knuckles,maxx trans locked into 1st...that is all i use basically, the rest is cvd's,revo shafts,etc.etc. the only breakage i have had is a servo mount( my fault) and rod ends. i used the cheap traxxas rod end crap and since upgrading to Dubros monster ends, i have had no breakage at all.run lst's w/ gd600, so it has all the torque in the world to break shit, but i don't it's not the question of which truck is more durable, it is how you build it. if you build a truck cheaply, it will be a POS and break. but if you put some money into it,take your time and design it right, it should last. but in crawling, shit breaks! there is noway around it |
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| | #6 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san jose
Posts: 1,274
| I have a txt with txt axles and tranny and a gd600 with a 15 tooth on a m.m and i'm running cut bft on narrow txt wheels with revo drive shafts and i have never broke anything. I also have a txt with xfactor axles also with a gd600 and a m.m. with a 15 tooth with tmaxx drive shafts on a set of kongs and also never broke anything.Also i have a v2 with lathe motors with 9 tooths front and back with also cut bft on maximizer bead locks and i have broke a front driver side axle |
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| | #7 |
| TEAM MODERATOR ![]() Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,770
| I'll have to agree with Jeremy,if you build it cheap it'll be cheap and probly break. Build it,nomatter what rig you start with,with good quality parts and design it right,it should last a good while and provide pleanty of fun. I'm running a Twin Force rig. I do believe that Twin axles will handle anything you can throw at them. All I've done is upgraded the factory aluminum ring and pinion to the steel helical cut gears. I'm locked solid all the way around and running Kongs,I've not broke the first thing in my axles. The Twin tranny is IMHO also very strong. The only thing I've broke in the tranny is the plastic 50 tooth spur gear. In all honesty it was probly my fault because the gear mesh was probly to sloppy. The drawback to the Twin tranny is the only spur gear available to bolt up factory without any mods is the stock 50 tooth. Theres a guy thats modded his to take the Maxx style spurs and can use up to a 70 or 72 tooth spur. I've got an idea and am in the middle of doing it now but I'll be able to run any maxx style spur. The way I'm modding mine should be easier to do and will use all factory parts,so no need for custom made or modded parts. Between the chain drive in the tranny, the 8mm outputs and inputs and everything holding up to running locked with Kongs,the only thing I've broke is a couple factory spurs. IMHO the Twin Force is a very durable rig. |
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| | #8 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: www.ORCRC.com
Posts: 697
| Quote:
I basically did a durability test at 14.4 volts and a 12 foot waterfall, OVER and OVER and OVER again...... and nothing broke! I basically drive it like I stole it for over two solid minutes of attacking that waterfall hoping I could somehow jump it up the lip at the top, but it never happened! But I have also seen them (clod axles) break on really mild stuff...... Thats why I carry spares..... Last edited by 4RnrRick; 05-20-2005 at 02:30 PM. | |
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| | #9 |
| 06 Super National Champ ![]() Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| Most durable? Anything that's not driven by Dirk. I have yet to snap stub axles or anything on the TXT, but I have more of a finesse driving style. On the Clods I snap axle tubes fairly often...need some aluminum tubes. |
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| | #10 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,923
| Quote:
You got lucky, Clod axles are the weakest available. One 2 second clip of you beating on a Clod doesn't change it. | |
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| | #11 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Ulysses (In my hick town)
Posts: 171
| My x factor is a tuff little SOB. I`ve nose dived it, ran the axel into a pole, and busted many rear driveshafts (When I get the revo one in you can try all you want you big block SOB) I have used the stock tires with unlocked diffs for now, and all I have broken is one front link (the nose dive) and a steering link (the pole) the rear shaft sucks anyways. |
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| | #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: orange county n.y. , building the hydro crawler
Posts: 196
| I used to blow gears in the pede tranny when i was in a bind, because it would twist the case under extreame torque loads. Now i run a custom machined t case with 2 inline gd600s. Links are 1/4 hardened steel. As for axles i run maxx diffs, with custom steel 3/4 id axle tubes, 1/4 thick steel link mounts, 1/8 thick diff housing, steel c hubs, i can drive it off a cliff. weakest points are the traxxas rod ends, and a maxx shafts (whick will become revo shafts soon). Not like i need to worry about rollovers with my cg |
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| | #13 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,427
| Clods surely aren't the strongest.. They weren't made to have 7" tires, 9tooths and lathe motors with tons of power. Tubes are weak, but if your braces are tight you'll eliminate most your problems. The knuckles are fairly beefy. I just have a problem with inners now, which SUCK to replace. From what I've seen on here, I'd give the TF/XF the overall nod. |
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| | #14 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SERCRC
Posts: 1,683
| TXT's are tough. My truck has been crashed and abused a lot since I built it a year ago. Full throttle, Mag Mayhem, 7-cell rock racer! If it can't be crawled, I'll jump it! The only TXT parts that I've broken have been stub shafts.... one broke from overtightening, the other bent in a hard crash. I went thru several Maxx slider shafts before stepping up to Revo shafts, now it's good.;) |
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| | #15 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,427
| Quote:
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| | #16 |
| It's a setup! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: The Crawler State
Posts: 12,905
| I have had a maxx crawler, a txt-1, and several clods. Notice I said several clods, because to me a clod was the only one worth redoing. With my maxx running a gd600, 55 turn, 1 battery and super rooster, I could snap the stock plastic axle shafts driving on flat concrete. I bought CVD's and snapped one within 5 minutes, I parked it and never drove it again. With my TXT, I only had maybe 10 hours of running it with stock tires and completely stripped every gear in the rear diff. Parked it never drove it again. With the several clod based rigs I've had sure I snaped a few stub shafts, broke several tubes, and broke a couple of knuckles. Anyone that has seen me drive knows I beat the hell out of my rigs, and like I said out of those 3 I'd take a clod any day. |
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| | #17 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MANVILLE
Posts: 415
| Quote:
take the gear box a part,remove the 4 screw & nuts that hold the tubes on off,put gear case back together,place tube in place and place 4- 6/32 screws in the tube holes and tighten them in place.don't use to long of a screw.and install every thing else.now when you need to replace a tube just remove the hub and those 4-6/32 screws and the tube is out in your hand. Last edited by SPEED_RACER; 05-23-2005 at 06:57 AM. | |
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| | #18 | |
| Colt Python/SR9c ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,677
| Quote:
Doug has snapped the cheaper ones before, but i have yet to snap a MIP :? | |
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| | #19 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SERCRC
Posts: 1,683
| Quote:
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