RCCrawler Forums

yoda316 · 12-10-2010, 09:08 PM

so i started to wire up my yota scaler tonight and ran into a problem.
ive got the rc4wd light box that can either run off the receiver (with a bec im guessing) or a 4aa battery pack.

problem is that sense the lights are mounted to the body I would be either stuck mounting the light box to the body along with the battery to run it which would make it too top heavy , or just mount the controller box to the body and have to unplug it from the receiver any time i take the body off (which doesn't sound ideal either..)

just wondering how other people are running their wires to the body so that its not a pain to deal with?

Spruce · 12-10-2010, 09:36 PM

One think that i have used for previous light installs to make them easy to disconect is a Deans 2B plug. Might work for your application, or it might be too big, when using this you will need to be decent at soldering.

this might be the correct video that shows the connectors, if you look through my photobucket account you will see 4 videos on how i did my light set up. There is also one on You tube. here are the links

http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=527.mp4

http://www.youtube.com/user/spruceha.../0/MFfWUDQlFH4

I hope this helps.

fred0000 · 12-10-2010, 09:41 PM

i've had an idea in the past to run washers on top of body posts and washers over the holes on the body (power from the pack or BEC to the washers on the posts, and wired to your lights from the washers on the body) so when the body is mounted the washers contact and finnish the circut.

just an idea.

brass or copper washers might be a good idea so you can easily solder to them. good luck.

yoda316 · 12-10-2010, 09:46 PM

^thats an awesome idea, thanks ill probably give that a try

Spruce · 12-10-2010, 09:47 PM

That is a really good idea, i have used that on my 1:1s before for differnt reasons.

fred0000 · 12-10-2010, 10:07 PM

i'm glad some of my idea's are "awesome"

if the lights cut in and out cause the body jostling around, small springs might be an idea.

sweli · 12-11-2010, 10:39 PM

X2 on the deans. I use 2R (LHS does not carry the 2B) plugs with +/-24AWG high strand count wire so stays flexible. I always leave enough slack to remove the body and lay it next to the rig so I have both hands avail to unplug them.
I bring straight 6v up under the bodies, then break it out to the voltages that each LED type needs.

I do not use body posts, but the washer idea is pretty cool. Post up some results after you try it!

Shadow Fox · 12-11-2010, 11:34 PM

I have the LEDs mounted in my body and the LED controller is mounted on the body as well...I just have to disconnect/reconnect a servo plug to the LED controller to remove the body...but I never really "remove" my body as it's bolted directly to the chassis on a hinge. so I just lift the front part of the body Attached to frame with velcro) to get access to the battery. (Mine is setup so you plug in the battery the truck turns on automatically)

murky123 · 12-12-2010, 02:03 AM

I have 4 lights in the body, the controlbox is mounted on the chassis.
everytime I put my lid on or of I have to unplug 4 led's from the controlbox

indiana mudcat · 12-12-2010, 01:48 PM

I have lights on my frame and body, I used a couple old servo leads to make a plug between the bumper lights and headlights. I figure mini Deans would work fine also.

ThunderVP · 12-12-2010, 09:19 PM

I used the coil springs from an old reciever bat holder. Mounted them near the body posts. The body has a couple brass washers for pickup contacts.
Drop the body on and the lights get power. No extra plugs, switches, wires or flickering to worry about.

0lllllll0 · 12-12-2010, 09:54 PM

Thats and awesome idea ThunderVP

eyeopenher · 01-06-2011, 11:54 PM

does doing the ol' spring and washer trick short out when going through water or because its D.C. it ok? i use to use my dewalt drill under water when i was an electrician and was had to do underwater lights... just curious... if its all good then it how i am going to do my lights. best idea i have seen so far... awesome awesome idea...

TattooKenny · 01-07-2011, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeopenher

does doing the ol' spring and washer trick short out when going through water or because its D.C. it ok? i use to use my dewalt drill under water when i was an electrician and was had to do underwater lights... just curious... if its all good then it how i am going to do my lights. best idea i have seen so far... awesome awesome idea...

It would work just fine under water

Its DC!

eyeopenher · 01-09-2011, 08:09 PM

thats what i thought... sweeeet... thank you...

12-10-2010, 09:08 PM	#1
yoda316 Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: eureka Posts: 577	led wiring ? so i started to wire up my yota scaler tonight and ran into a problem. ive got the rc4wd light box that can either run off the receiver (with a bec im guessing) or a 4aa battery pack. problem is that sense the lights are mounted to the body I would be either stuck mounting the light box to the body along with the battery to run it which would make it too top heavy , or just mount the controller box to the body and have to unplug it from the receiver any time i take the body off (which doesn't sound ideal either..) just wondering how other people are running their wires to the body so that its not a pain to deal with?

01-06-2011, 11:54 PM	#13
eyeopenher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: old bridge Posts: 153	shorts? does doing the ol' spring and washer trick short out when going through water or because its D.C. it ok? i use to use my dewalt drill under water when i was an electrician and was had to do underwater lights... just curious... if its all good then it how i am going to do my lights. best idea i have seen so far... awesome awesome idea...

01-09-2011, 08:09 PM	#15
eyeopenher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: old bridge Posts: 153	niceeee... thats what i thought... sweeeet... thank you...

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12-10-2010, 09:36 PM	#2
Spruce Newbie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: North East Posts: 2	One think that i have used for previous light installs to make them easy to disconect is a Deans 2B plug. Might work for your application, or it might be too big, when using this you will need to be decent at soldering. this might be the correct video that shows the connectors, if you look through my photobucket account you will see 4 videos on how i did my light set up. There is also one on You tube. here are the links http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/j...urrent=527.mp4 http://www.youtube.com/user/spruceha.../0/MFfWUDQlFH4 I hope this helps.

12-10-2010, 09:41 PM	#3
fred0000 cherry bomb Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada Posts: 1,598	i've had an idea in the past to run washers on top of body posts and washers over the holes on the body (power from the pack or BEC to the washers on the posts, and wired to your lights from the washers on the body) so when the body is mounted the washers contact and finnish the circut. just an idea. brass or copper washers might be a good idea so you can easily solder to them. good luck.

12-10-2010, 09:46 PM	#4
yoda316 Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: eureka Posts: 577	^thats an awesome idea, thanks ill probably give that a try

12-10-2010, 09:47 PM	#5
Spruce Newbie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: North East Posts: 2	That is a really good idea, i have used that on my 1:1s before for differnt reasons.

12-10-2010, 10:07 PM	#6
fred0000 cherry bomb Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada Posts: 1,598	i'm glad some of my idea's are "awesome" if the lights cut in and out cause the body jostling around, small springs might be an idea.

12-11-2010, 10:39 PM	#7
sweli RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Lake Michigan Posts: 1,898	X2 on the deans. I use 2R (LHS does not carry the 2B) plugs with +/-24AWG high strand count wire so stays flexible. I always leave enough slack to remove the body and lay it next to the rig so I have both hands avail to unplug them. I bring straight 6v up under the bodies, then break it out to the voltages that each LED type needs. I do not use body posts, but the washer idea is pretty cool. Post up some results after you try it!

12-11-2010, 11:34 PM	#8
Shadow Fox Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 511	I have the LEDs mounted in my body and the LED controller is mounted on the body as well...I just have to disconnect/reconnect a servo plug to the LED controller to remove the body...but I never really "remove" my body as it's bolted directly to the chassis on a hinge. so I just lift the front part of the body Attached to frame with velcro) to get access to the battery. (Mine is setup so you plug in the battery the truck turns on automatically)

12-12-2010, 02:03 AM	#9
murky123 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: netherlands Posts: 348	I have 4 lights in the body, the controlbox is mounted on the chassis. everytime I put my lid on or of I have to unplug 4 led's from the controlbox

12-12-2010, 01:48 PM	#10
indiana mudcat RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: reelsville Posts: 1,871	I have lights on my frame and body, I used a couple old servo leads to make a plug between the bumper lights and headlights. I figure mini Deans would work fine also.

12-12-2010, 09:19 PM	#11
ThunderVP Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: SW of Chicago Posts: 212	I used the coil springs from an old reciever bat holder. Mounted them near the body posts. The body has a couple brass washers for pickup contacts. Drop the body on and the lights get power. No extra plugs, switches, wires or flickering to worry about.

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12-12-2010, 09:54 PM	#12
0lllllll0 Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Denver Posts: 591	Thats and awesome idea ThunderVP

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