two link coil over help

[skidooguymxz550]

does anybody know how to properly set one of these style of suspension up properly. how would a panhard bar come into play. my current setup as very little travel but i don't car about that, even though it's only like 3/4". my main problem is the axle pinion angle moving. (leaning forward or back) can any one help and heres the rig

[roktoy]

Basically you have a swingarm type suspension and the pinion will pitch with travel. You'll need to go to a 3 or 4-link style to solve the pinion pitch.
Jay

[Cole82]

Exactly what roktoy said.
It will help though if your links are as horizontal as possible at ride hight.

[microgoat]

If the problem is the axle pivoting around on the links (which moves the pinion even if the axle is stationary) then you need to fix the links to the axle without using balls, or make a C-bracket to hold the axle to the link. It's awfully hard to see what's going on with those huge tires in the way.

[H3RESQ]

You can do a 2 link if the link splits and attaches above and below the axle center point(early bronco,fj60,06 superduty 1:1's would be worth looking at to get the idea) You would still need a panhard to control the side to side movement. Your panhard needs to have the same angle as your steering to keep the axle/steering from walking and binding at flex.

[blue-beard]

Originally Posted by H3RESQ

You can do a 2 link if the link splits and attaches above and below the axle center point(early bronco,fj60,06 superduty 1:1's would be worth looking at to get the idea) You would still need a panhard to control the side to side movement. Your panhard needs to have the same angle as your steering to keep the axle/steering from walking and binding at flex.

Radius arms are what you are describing. I don't think they would work well on a rc crawler. The way a radius arm set up is designed is it works great when both tires move up and down at the same time but when you flex out it binds. This is due to the fact that a radius arm really only has 1 pivot point per arm (where it attaches to the frame) and the axle mounts are basically solid mounted. In order to get any flex out of it you have to do one of 2 things.
One which is what ford motor co did on early broncos and f150s is use rubber bushings at the axle mounts and the frame mounts. This allows more flex because the rubber will flex/distort/give when the axle is twisting up. But where do you get flexy rubber bushings for a 1/10 rc car? I guess instead of using a rod end you could use some rubber tube or hose as your joint by running a bolt through it, just don't tighten it too much.
The other method is to have a radius arm on one side and a single link on the other side. This is known as a wristed radius arm. This allows lots of flex becasue the two arms are not fighting each other like in the og system. Problem is though is causes some funky reactions from the suspension (lots of dipping/diving/jacking etc.) and I think It would make tourque twist a nightmare on a shafty.

And yes you need to use a panhard bar with this setup to locate the axle latteraly.

There are some other traits that go along with the radius arm design as far as susmension reation but seeing how people mount links on rc cars and that they work I feel that those characteristics aren't a big factor.

[skidooguymxz550]

thanks for the help but i don't care much about flex. it's going to be a mudder hill climber. but thanks all. i think i got abetter understanding