Scale steering

[savageaussie]

Hey Guys,

Well I have just about finished my Ford ranger tlt scale rig, all but the steering, need some advice from those running their servo up on the chassis.
What is the best method of attachment or the best set up, I have seen a thousand pics but none that will work on my rig.
the servo is mounted in the center of the two rails, up front over the front axel.
I didn't want to mount it to the side, as it destroys the scale look.
Cheers.

[rambuller84]

Without pics it's a little hard to help. I don't see how the thousand pix you've seen couldn't have helped any.

[Mad Scientist]

Why won't the methods you've seen work? Pics would definitely help.

Most people just have a link that goes from the servo to one knuckle, then a connecting rod that attaches both knuckles together.

[4RunnerKid]

well the problem people have in bumpsteer. just try and make your draglink as long as possible... i'm doing a frame-mounted servo on mine too, so we'll see how it turns out.

[savageaussie]

Here are some pics, I am thinking that the distance to the servo is just to high, I tried the S shaped drag link and it wouldn't let the suspension move and wouldn't steer left.

[Cole82]

The chassis is too high. Links work the best parallel to the ground.
Also mount your tie rod on top then mount the drag link on top of that.

[blue302ranger]

you could always go the jugg. rought and mount a cantilever on the axle and mount your servo in the center of the chassis. It's not very practical and it will have slight flex-steer but it would work for what you are trying to do.

[Jamus]

Could always dogleg the draglink but I figure you'll end up changing the link setup.

[1BadJeepBruiser]

Originally Posted by Cole82

The chassis is too high. Links work the best parallel to the ground.
Also mount your tie rod on top then mount the drag link on top of that.

2nd that, definitely way to high, if you drop it down almost a good inch not only will it crawl better but youll probably be able to get the steering worked out.

Mike

[ddiaz10240]

here's the way i mount my servo's

[All Out Racing]

I've used a long straight aluminum servo arm and bent it into basically a drop pitman arm, then added a double bent draglink to drop the steering down over two inches. If you combine this with your tierod being on top and your draglink mounted on the same screw/bolt above that as mentioned before, you should be able to make a sucessful rig. If that still isn't enough, there is a more complicated route, which I may or may not be able to explain sufficently without a drawing, but here goes. You can attach your servo arm to a link, attach the link to a pivot on the frame that hangs down toward your axle, then attach another link from the pivot to your axle/steering knuckle. Hope that makes sense. Good luck

[All Out Racing]

Here's a drawing of what I was trying to explain. [/IMG]

[slugzracing]

Originally Posted by savageaussie

Here are some pics, I am thinking that the distance to the servo is just to high, I tried the S shaped drag link and it wouldn't let the suspension move and wouldn't steer left.

First off, what Ford Ranger body are you using? I really want to see it!

On my 1/6th scale ranger I mounted the servo up on the frame and the steering has always been tough. With your servo horn being more or less over the middle of the axle even one heck of a Z-link will not work. Bringing the chassy down would help but I still do not think it would be enough given the location of the servo. I would move your steering servo to the outside of the frame and then make a Z-link. You will always have axle steer (not bump steer) since that is just the nature of the beast and the more articulation you have the worse it will be. I dont think I have any pics of my setup on this computer and I will not be home until late Sunday so if I remember I will snap a pic of my setup (4 link, coil spring suspension just like you have setup)

[savageaussie]

Thanks for all your help guys, I will try to lower the hieght a bit, that is actually a real pain in the but. I have it all pulled apart a present and will try lowering the servo.
The body is an original 1/10th Tamiya Ford ranger body, i can't wait till this is sorted so i can get some finished pics up, the trial run I did today was quite pleasing, the rig is heavy as it has a full exo tube shell, the doors have been removed, full interior, full scale working winch(this thing i should copy right) ram lights and spoties.
Thanks again

[savageaussie]

Any more details or pics on how to build up the Z link???

[microgoat]

http://www.freewebs.com/goatworks/barnyardbuster.htm

My servo is mounted close to the center, and has very little bumpsteer. Some when the right side is raised, none when the left side is raised.

[All Out Racing]

You can build them many different ways, but the simplest way would probably be as follows. Mount a TLT lower link mount on the frame rail perpendicular to the rails, so the pivot will rock across the chassis, not in line with it. Then using a piece of square tube or solid rod, make a pivot about an inch or inch 1/2 long with holes in both ends and rounded to allow it to move in the mount. Attach a link from the servo to the pivot on one side at the bottom, then attach the draglink to the other side at the bottom to avoid twisting the pivot. You can play around with where to mount the pivot, but try to keep it close to the center of the axle's arc when compressed as this will keep the pivot from rubbing the tire while turning. I'll try to draw up a new pic soon.

[All Out Racing]

Here's a pic, hope this helps
[/IMG]

[savageaussie]

You guys rock,

Will get stuck into it