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Old 04-07-2013, 06:11 PM   #1
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Default fj cruiser build

hey guys im starting a fj cruiser build and the body is coming in the mail soon and i have a completely stock scx10

ive been looking on a lot of other builds and notcie that everyone has to change there wheel base to make it fit along with tire size too but thats simple enough im more worried about the wheel base issue

could anybody that has done this project shed some light on this cause im kinda loss
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:31 PM   #2
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

What is it that you are lost on? You hit the nail on the head really, the FJ wheelbase is shorter than the SCX10...hence the requirement to change it up. If you look at mine below, you can see that the wheel base of this body is 10", whereas the chassis wheelbase is 12.5ish on a honcho (and like 11.5 on a dingo I think?)



I chose to make my own links for the front and rear to make the wheelbase fit the body. Later on I comp cut (1:1 term) the rear and stretched my wheelbase to the current 11.25". The first few posts of my build thread has a lot more information on the body compared to the chassis and whatnot. I think I ended up chopping an inch off the chassis rails too for the body to fit.

Does that help explain it some?
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:32 PM   #3
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

yeah i appreciate the responce and my main quiestion is can i order links or are they something i have to make myself and if i do make them myself what do i use i figured their was some kind of adjustable link set

im new to the rock crawlers but ive spent a few years now on rc's
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #4
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

so im reading other peoples build and some say that they only shorten the rear links and another says to shorten both equally
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:42 AM   #5
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

Welcome to the forum fellow San Diegan!

I make my own links using 10-24 (I think lol) all thread from home depot and some 1/4" brake line to cover it, and use traxxas Rexo rod ends. Super easy and way cheaper than any links you can buy. Plus you make them to the exact size you want.

I was planning on building an FJ like that too, but a 10" scares me. Im so spoiled and used to the crawling capabilities of the longer wheelbase. Then again the 10" would definitely be significantly more scale looking/performing.

Maybe we can meet up and crawl sometime when you're done with this rig. Good luck!
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:31 AM   #6
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

Hey Fjjoe, you could buy some shorter axial links and piece something together, however I'd recommend you just make your own. It's really not that hard, and it is far cheaper. I've been very happy with the strength of the homemade ones too...I've ripped off/broken a few link ends but that is an easy trail fix.

I suggest you use all new links front and rear for something like this, not just shorter the rear (or front). For best suspension geometry you want all links to be as long as possible, within reason of course. When I first built mine I only did rear links, however it was just for mock-up and they were nothing more than all thread with rod ends on them. Once I had the wheelbase set for sure, I made all new links front and rear using the all thread, brake line and revo rod ends like Shinjari posted. There are A LOT of threads on this forum already about how to make the links and whatnot, I suggest you read some of those. If you aren't familiar with the search feature on the forum, try it out or go to google and type in site:rccrawler.com and then whatever you want to search for.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:40 PM   #7
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

okay so i got my all tread and brake line and jato rod ends ive got my number for the wheel base and i have all the links off of the truck

while trying to measure for the links i ran into a couple problems one is an easy fix the other im not sure on what to do

the first one is the fact that the driveshafts dont compress enough i should just be able to cut them down

and my big issue consists of the upper link that is a y shape and the servo being mounted on my axle when i change the front wheel base the servo runs into the crossmemeber/battery mount

anybody know what to do or what im talking about ?

i can post pics if needed i plan on doing a full build thread when im through so i can show everyone the full steps
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:36 PM   #8
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

You're right, the driveshafts will need to be shorter to fit. Try to maintain as much spline contact as possible though of course. What driveshafts are you using, the Wild Boar WB8 or whatever they are called from the newer SCX's? If so they have a shorter and longer version...check to make sure you are using the shorter one before you make the cuts.

As for the front upper links...if you have a newer SCX10 your extra parts trees should have an extra four link mount for the axle...at least mine did. It is exactly the same as the one on the rear axle and allows you to get rid of the "Y" link stock. However, to address your actual question/issue, you have a couple options the way I see it. You could mount the servo on the chassis, or you could modify/cut the stock one to clear. Of course you could always get rid of the stock one and make your own too...

Last edited by Ramination; 04-15-2013 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

okay i cant thank you enough for your info and im still looking at this front axle and im only moving it back a quarter inch or so and what i noticed is if i leave the y shaped piece but shorten the lower links it will put my axle at an angle causeing the servo to clear i think lol but will angling the axle forwards hurt my capabilites ?

the only thing i can think of is it would change camber but i highly doubt this thing has any at all anyways

ive seen people angle the axles a bit on other fj builds im wondering if its a plus or minus it looks like it would take some pressure off of the drive shaft as well because it would be a shaighter too
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:23 AM   #10
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

What you are describing here is a very important topic. And I think you have the right idea, but you are thinking of castor, not camber. Anyways, yes rotating the axle so that the front yoke/driveshaft is up above the lower links is very beneficial simply for the fact that it will keep you from getting hung up on it. It also helps the driveshaft angle, however that isn't as much of a problem with our slow scalers as real vehicles. HOWEVER, if you do not correct the hub angle you will have extreme negative castor, and it will hurt your steering. If you have stock hubs, you are going to need to redo your links so that your castor is at least level, if not somewhat positive. On mine, I have c-hubs and knuckles from the wraith axle which allow me to adjust the castor of the axle independent of link length...so my driveshaft rests in the ideal position (rotated up above bottom links) and I run slight positive castor. You can do this too, if you want to drop some coin. I suggest you get rid of that "y" link and four link the front, and build your links so that you have good front end geometry first though.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:06 AM   #11
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

alright so ive taken a few phtos and took a lot of ur advice its almost ready for a test run so im gonna do a build thread tomorrow on my progress.

i took the tires off the wheels tonight in hopes that my new ones will be here in the morning

ill post the link here for anyone who has the same questions as i once did so they can see how i went about it
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:07 AM   #12
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Default Re: fj cruiser build

Sweet, can't wait to see your take on the FJ. I'll be keeping an eye out for your thread.
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