Leaf Springs...?...

[Cake Eater]

I'm currently working on a scale build with a DiazDesigns C-Channel Trail chassis that happens to use leaf spring... And that's what I wanted. It requires that the leafs be screwed/bolted to the axles through the ceter part of the leaf.
So my question(s) is/are...
Does anyone have any tips on removeing the rivet that hold the leafs together on the Jugg Leafs?
I've been just grinding them off with my dremel... It does work, but it takes a bit of time and seems to heat up the leafs, and i don't know if that's going to effect the metal. So maybe a follow up question might be, what is the best way to let it cool? put some water on it, let it go slowly with room temp, put it in the freezer? I know that cooling metals at different rates can change the metal, but i don't know if it's going to be a problem here.
Thats why I was wondering if there were other ways somebody has tried to do it.



Here's another question too that maybe someone with a High-Lift can answer... What is the part # of the leaf springs that are use on that kit? Maybe, what Tamiya Parts bag are they in? I tried looking around on Tamiya's site, but they don't have an exploded veiw or manual on there yet.

Thanks to anyone that can help.

[_Jason_]

use a drill

[NP435]

I ground my jugg leafs from the small leaf side and only used the 2 big leafs- works great.
NOTE: don't use only one leaf without a traction bar=bent leafs.
I am running a mag mayhem w/14-87 gearing and had no problems with 2 leaf setup. Hope this helps.

[Cole82]

Use the barrel sander next time. Some 60 grit go's through it fast and doesn't heat it up.

[Mirage]

I used the dremmel, then once i got the pin ground flush to the leafs, I used a punch to knock out the pin. Then used a drill to make the holes large enough to accept 3mm screws. They get a little more bite in the delrin blocks that way.