Hillbilly's barrage upgrade bible!

[WaterfordMan]

Originally Posted by Norton

Do you know the dimensions of the Doomsday tires? I have a scale build i'm working on and can't find any info on them. I'm looking for height, width and wheel size.
Thanks.

Here's some dimensions. I have an extra set never used if you're interested.

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[Norton]

Thanks, I think those would work. The only thing I'm not sure about is the tire diameter inside is different from the front of the tire to the back.

[WaterfordMan]

Originally Posted by Norton

Thanks, I think those would work. The only thing I'm not sure about is the tire diameter inside is different from the front of the tire to the back.

Yup...it's kind of like a Short Course Truck tire.

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[Norton]

Thanks, I'll get back to you.

[tuxstang]

Originally Posted by hillbillyrc

METAL LOCKER
Hsp part number 680010 also a redcat part #

Another reference that fits : FTX8253

[boldfin]

Originally Posted by bugman72

I have absolutely loved my 1.55 Gen 2 since buying it this past fall. It's been a surprisingly good trail rig. But, one of the biggest downfalls, IMHO, is the steering. As I mentioned earlier, I developed a CMS mount so that I could compete in Class 1 with the Barrage. But, the steering angle was so shallow, I was constantly losing points for reverses. So, I set out to change that.

What I have developed is new C-hub that requires ZERO modification to the Barrage's axle case OR the stock locker. The C-hub was designed to work with an Axial AR44 (SCX10-2) steering knuckle and AR44 universal axles. The only modifications necessary to get this all to work is to reduce the overall diameter of the AR44's axle shaft to 4mm from 5mm. Doing so allows the use of the original 4x8x3 bearings installed in the Barrage axle case. This also allows for the AR44 universal to slide directly into the Barrage locker. No length needs to be removed from the AR44 universal nor anything else other than reducing overall diameter.

The C-hubs pictured were designed with a 15-degree caster angle to help with additional steering angle and be able to clear my Proline Sumo body without additional cutting.


C-hubs printed by Shapeways. Purchased the white material and shot them really quick with some flat black.



AR44 universals after material was removed. Axle shaft is now 4mm OD.



Axles sitting in stock 4x8x3 bearings and fitted in axle case. This is stock length of the Axial universals. Couldn't ask for a better fit.



Closeup of the gap between the two universals.



C-hubs are a bolt-on fit using all stock screws.







Installation of Axial SCX10-2 steering knuckle. Uses stock Axial screws to connect knuckle to new C-hub.





The AR44 steering knuckles clear the tiny 1.55 wheels perfectly. I used a slightly thinner 12mm hex to reduce the overall track width so I would still fit under Class 1 rules (less than 1/2 of tire sticking outside fender well).




This pic was during initial fitment and shows the difference in steering. The left side is stock and the right side is with the mod. Unbelievable difference.





This shows the overall increase in track with as a result of the conversion. It is very minimal, I feel, given the huge increase in steering. By adding 15-degrees of caster to the C-hub, it allows me to still get full steering without needing to modify my body any more.

Stock:


Mod:


All in all I'm elated in how this turned out. Makes the truck perform so much better. Now, I'm working on designing a new, lower mounted battery tray as well as hopefully a high clearance skid that will be flush with the bottom of the frame rail.

Very intriguing. I have also noticed the steering of my Barrage is a weakness. I'd be interested in giving your solution a try, but I'm still kind of new to all this, so please bear with me - I have a couple questions...

How much of the improvement in steering is due to the use of universal axles versus the stock CVD's? I have an Axial SCX10-II Deadbolt RTR, and one of the first things I did was install aftermarket universals to replace the stock CVD's and I defintely saw some improvement in steering.

How do you reduce the diameter of the axial universal axles? I don't have access to a lathe. Is there another way to do it?

Is it possible to purchase a set of your C-hubs on Shapeways? I did some searching, and couldn't find them.

I have the required Axial parts in hand to do this conversion. Just need to know where to get the C-hubs and how to reduce the diameter of the axles.

I want to keep pushing my Barrage to perform better. Appreciate your sharing this idea with us.

[Tundratrader]

Hey there, Havent been active in rc in ages. Messing with my barrage again. I broke a rear axle. I had already used epoxy in the locker. That held but axle broke right on the pin. Now I debate buying 35 bucks worth of axles for this. One thing about swapping to a set of chinese alloys or filling the cases of the scx10 stock ones i have laying around is shock fittings the mounting holes. They bend in and Just wont work on it I dont think. I just looked at it quickly. I wish I could find something other tham the axial builders rig. If i could find a decent chinese crawler to start messing with i would. I am kicking myself for not buying several of the doomsday when they were a hundred bucks.

I hadnt seen many others trying for completly new axles.

[WaterfordMan]

New project. 3D printed housing with AR44 shafts.



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[tuxstang]

Nice job.

[Xrayray]

Has anybody tried other types of rod ends with the stock axle housings? I got a spare bag of Traxxas 3mm, could I make those work?

[Tundratrader]

That is awesome. The one weak part of stock housing are where the top links go in the rear. I got hit once with a slash 😡and it tore them all off. Beefing shafts up would be great. I am just debating from every direction continuing to build my barrage. I truly love it.

[WaterfordMan]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Still in the prototype phase, but this might work. I was hoping for maintaining the stock width, but they might be a little wider. More to follow.

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[Xrayray]

https://www.banggood.com/HSP-94180-G...r_warehouse=CN

Has anyone seen this transmission before?

Would the bolt pattern line up with the stock skids? This is for a 540 motor I think.

[JonW]

Xrayray, that gearbox is for the 540 motor. There is a 3d printed centre skid plate that is for that gearbox to fit into an FTX Outback/ECX Barrage. I did the conversion not long after getting my truck but switched back to the 390 motor as I didn’t really see the benefit of the bigger gearbox and 540.
If you have a look on eBay you should be able to find the skid plate for sale.
That gearbox is the same as is used in many different trucks including the Redcat Gen7, which means slipper clutch and steel internal gears are available as upgrades should you wish. "

Edit, eBay number 192474744176

[Xrayray]

That part number doesn't show up on eBay search. Maybe you're using a UK eBay?

Anyhow, I found the Rock Cruiser RC-4 stock skid and complete transmission on eBay, so I'll stick to the standard stuff.

My transmission is making growling sounds, so I took it apart to grease, but when I put it back together, I overtightened one of the screws, and it snapped the plastic cover. It's still growling, IDK why or where it's coming from. The motor spun quietly when I removed it though.

Thanks!

[JonW]

Oh man, I just checked the listing and it is UK only. Sorry buddy, my bad.
Good news on the other skid plate, post up how you get on with the conversion.

[Xrayray]

Its still on my watch list. Its just the RGT stock skid and transmission, but it's super cheap compared to what Horizon Hobby wants for a complete trans.

[hillbillyrc]

I believe I still have my stock trans and skid hang out somewhere since I converted to a front mount motor and t-case.

[Xrayray]

Cool man if you don't want it, lmk

[hillbillyrc]

I have no need for it. Can't turn back from the custom work the fit the front mounted trans. Pm me